GM requires 0w20 in the new 3.0 duramax . Dexos D is the spec its built to handle the stressViscosity right at the low end of the range, not great in my opinion.
Is 0W-20 mandated by GM or is a 5w30 allowed for this engine?
Understood, what is GM's recommended change interval?GM requires 0w20 in the new 3.0 duramax . Dexos D is the spec its built to handle the stress
Danno my manual states 7500 under normal conditions. And follow the OLM.Understood, what is GM's recommended change interval?
I'd be using a Dexos 2 or C3 5w30 if I owned one of these trucks and running the OLM to 0%. VW used a similar strategy with their 2015 EA288 TDI engine (elevated oil and coolant temps to boost fuel economy) and some mechanics have reported cylinder scoring and premature wear.
Blackstone doesn't accurately measure FD with the GC test, so it may be present. My 2.8 Duramax always has ~ 2% fuel dilution, wouldn't be surprised if this engine also has FD with the stock tuning
Yeah I don’t doubt that. I do question if running a heavier oil could possibly strain the variable displacement oil pump. I know they have said the oil ports are bigger and they focus on oil flow at lower pressures vs much higher pressure. But lower pressure also = less work and better mileage.
regardless I would be slightly
Worried about what that pump and belt can handle when we talk about heavier oils. But I’m not sure going from a c5 (2.6)esp x2 to a c3 3.5+ would over tax that pump..
Thanks for your input. This makes allotMy Cruze CTD is designed for C3 5w30 and has a VD oil pump. I run 10w40 at almost 2x the oil change interval with no issues. My UOA is posted on here. A VD oil pump still has a bypass so there would be no "Strain".
I also run 10w40 CJ-4 in my 2.8 duramax with a VD oil pump. Operating oil pressures are higher than with 5w30, but wear is also about 1/2 of what others report with Dexos 2 oils. The heavier viscosity compensates for the previously mentioned fuel dilution at the end of the oil change interval, so it's still a 30 wt oil instead of dropping down to a 20wt
Food for thought, a 0w20 at 20F is still heavier than a 5w30 at operating temp. If Dexos D flows when cold then a 5w30 will when hot. The 5w30 will just provide a slightly thicker film at higher temps or when their is the presence of FD.
Enjoy the new truck. I considered trading in my Canyon ATX for a new 3.0 1500 but can't really take on any new debt right now.
Yeah and we will know allotTo maintain warranty, you're stuck with 0W-20 imo. You may want to try the Mobil 1 0W-20 D spec oil - if you can find it.
For now, shortening up the oci would be my go to.
Once out of warranty, I would move to a 5w30.
While I agree ... it’s only partially.. People seem to forget how many manufacturers have or had timing belts designs with 80-100k intervals... and the risk of allot of those breaking when ran longer is catastrophic if it’s an interference engine... just saying. It’s not like those were easy or cheap if dealer performed.I like the new 3.0 diesel but having to pull the transmission to change the timing belt at 150k is crazy.
While I agree ... it’s only partially.. People seem to forget how many manufacturers have or had timing belts designs with 80-100k intervals... and the risk of allot of those breaking when ran longer is catastrophic if it’s an interference engine... just saying. It’s not like those were easy or cheap if dealer performed.
yes a oil pump belt breaking could be catastrophic. But if you stopped immediately it’s not on the level of (piston making sweet love to valve)
i love my truck and frankly if the market for trucks is still crazy come November I’ll swap for a 22 3.0l most likely. But only if the used ones are going for whore house prices like when I traded for this one.
They said noise/packaging restraints. It’s a very long engine for its space. I just want to know the internal bearing clearancesand oil pump specs to know if it was really made for 0w20 or if that’s more towards efficiency.But why not design the motor with a gear-drive like the 6.6 Duramax instead of a timing belt?
That’s a very true statement. -10 20wt is a heck of allot thicker than warm 30wt.You can make engine design changes to tolerate a lower MOFT but you don't design it to require that. Otherwise the engine would self-destruct at any temperature other than at normal operating temperature such as cold days when the engine may not warm up as much as usual. Consider just how massively thick the oil is at any normal ambient temperature.
Some manufacturers have designed or programmed some components such as a VVT actuator to detect a higher viscosity oil for CAFE purposes. This is not a design requirement however but is done to protect fuel economy credits.
But no engine will mechanically fail or be harmed by any SAE grade oil unless the winter rating is so inappropriate for the staring conditions that it cannot be pumped.