2018 Elantra Sport- What oil and 1st oil change

[Dohc98vteC]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: car51
Mobil 1 5w30

It’s a Hyundai so doesn’t necessarily need DEXOS spec oil


I think the previous member recommended d1g2 because it's a T-GDI.

EDIT: Skyactiv beat me to it above. But M1 would be a fine choice.

OP, i agree with skyactiv, anything meeting dexos1Gen2 certification will work great. Any pics? I really like the understated good looks of that Elantra.


Haven't got a chance to get good pics, but here is one.

 

[bbhero]

It is almost Dexos approval verbatim Wemay. On the old Lubrizol charts though it ACEA Was better than Dexos at lower piston deposit formation. That is a very good aspect of the ACEA A5 specification.

StevieC, PimTac and Eddie all have great thoughts and suggestions here.

 

[Vuflanovsky]

I typically split the difference somewhere between the normal OCI and dumping the factory fill at 1000 miles. My current non-turbo'd DI Hyundai had the ff oil dumped at about 2200 miles. If I had a turbo'd direct injection car or a normally aspirated one, I'd probably do pretty much the same thing.

 

[NormanBuntz]

Does Hyundai still prescribe intervals for severe service vs. regular service for you model, and is full synthetic oil required? You can't go wrong by complying with the owners manual.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: Dohc98vteC
The manual says ACEA A5 or above. The first oil change is free at the dealer, should I just get it now? Also they have a Quaker State sticker on the air filter lid, I suppose that is what they would use.

Pennz Platinum full syn 5w30 is A5 (and dexos1 Gen2), same for Valvoline full syn 5w30. Good choices there.
I seriously doubt if the dealership will bother with an expensive A5 oil (means its an expensive full syn). Let us know if they claim to give you a full syn oil change.

Use a Fram Ultra oil filter for best performance. Use the dealer oil change and make sure they don't over-fill it, as that happens a lot these days.

 

[StevieC]

I had issues running Fram on my Santa Fe with lifters ticking. Now this was 10 years ago but just something to note in case you go the Fram ultra route and encounter the same. I switched to Wix then to Amsoil EAO.

 

[MONKEYMAN]

Dealership did first oil change on my Elantra at 2,241. They used Valvoline Premium Conventional and did over fill it. Changed the oil myself at 3,757. Wanted to get in sync with the 3,750 miles severe service schedule. Used Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It performed well. Just did 3rd change with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum at 7,082 so do not need to change when cold outside. This is one of my favorite oils. Very smooth.

Regarding the Fram Ultra Filter I just bought some off of Ebay. Part # XG9668. I even called Fram and talked to a guy named Marty and he confirmed it was the right one.

Fram Filtration Catalog

I also use OEM. Your dealership will probably stress using OEM filters.

Enjoy the Elantra. Mine has been awesome!

 

[Ram02]

Quaker State is what that car needs

 

[anndel]

Check your owner's manual and use the grade/type (if they specify synthetic or conventional). Any major brand is good: Mobil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Super-Tech, etc.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
I like to dump factory fill in 1K but that's just me...


+1

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: anndel
Check your owner's manual and use the grade/type (if they specify synthetic or conventional). Any major brand is good: Mobil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Super-Tech, etc.


+1

Thanks for the pic OP.

 

[dlundblad]

There is no need for a fancy synthetic yet unless you plan on running the fill to it's full potential. Seeing how it has 500 miles and you're considering dumping it, I would use whatever and run it a few thousand.

 

[MONKEYMAN]

Originally Posted By: Ram02
Quaker State is what that car needs


Then why would my dealership use Valvoline? It is more of advertising than anything, otherwise all dealerships would have to use Quaker State exclusively.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

As a fellow DIT owner, I would also highly recommend a dexos1 Gen 2 oil even though you don't own a GM product...it's the only major standard right now that includes testing to ensure an oil helps inhibit LSPI events. LSPI can be quite destructive and there's just no reason to mess with it given that dexos1 Gen 2 oils have gone mass market now.

Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 sounds like a great choice to give you the A5 rating along with d1G2, A5 is the much tougher of the two to find. I don't think it makes sense to run some generic conventional even for a short OCI, LSPI is a random event and one bad occurrence can really leave you hurting. It's not a theoretical worry, engines that have had LSPI troubles that resulted in recall/repair/replacement include the Veloster Turbo 1.6l, Subaru 2.0l turbo (the one in my car), and the GM 1.5l turbo.

 

[rossn2]

My wife's Hyundai Tuscon with the 4cyl turbo gets Motorcraft 5w-30 semi-synthetic (5qt jug) from Walmart, and OEM oil filter. There's no need to run full synthetic in the vehicle.
The hardest part of the oil change is removing the engine covering underneath the car...
Had dealer change factory fill at 1000 miles, then changed it at 5k miles and now every 5k after that, along with tire rotation...
Vehicle has over 40k miles, no issues.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: rossn2
My wife's Hyundai Tuscon with the 4cyl turbo gets Motorcraft 5w-30 semi-synthetic (5qt jug) from Walmart, and OEM oil filter. There's no need to run full synthetic in the vehicle.
The hardest part of the oil change is removing the engine covering underneath the car...
Had dealer change factory fill at 1000 miles, then changed it at 5k miles and now every 5k after that, along with tire rotation...
Vehicle has over 40k miles, no issues.


...and if the OP decides not to go the full synthetic route but wants the security of d1G2, he can. Pennzoil Gold and Quaker State Synthetic Blend (5W30) fit the bill nicely. As i've said before, our SFS T-GDi has had a few OCi worth of conventional oil as well with zero issues.

 

[AnthemBassMan]

Originally Posted By: rossn2
The hardest part of the oil change is removing the engine covering underneath the car...


That's one thing I'm thankful for is that my '17 Elantra has the cutouts in the bottom engine cover for the oil filter and drain plug. I work part time at a lube shop and some of those bottom engine covers are a royal pain. Especially when the manufacturer decides to use two or three different sized fasteners to hold up one piece of plastic or fiberboard.

L8R,
Matt