2018 Civic EX-T Sedan
- Thread starter Finz
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Are you sure that the car you were looking at & test driving wasn't the 2.0L with a 6 speed manual?...for $22,500?
As none of the turbo sedans, except the Si have a manual tranny.
As none of the turbo sedans, except the Si have a manual tranny.
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Are you sure that the car you were looking at & test driving wasn't the 2.0L with a 6 speed manual?...for $22,500?
As none of the turbo sedans, except the Si have a manual tranny.
Positive:
1.5L I-4 Cyl
Manual
FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE
Are you sure that the car you were looking at & test driving wasn't the 2.0L with a 6 speed manual?...for $22,500?
As none of the turbo sedans, except the Si have a manual tranny.
Positive:
1.5L I-4 Cyl
Manual
FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE
Originally Posted By: parshisa
I’ve never driven 2.0 but turbo 1.5 civic is very very fun to drive. Any other car with similar specs I’ve driven feels sluggish and gutless compared to my civic. Catch can, timely oil changes and the car will serve you well
Would a catch can help with the fuel dilution?
Originally Posted By: Finz
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Are you sure that the car you were looking at & test driving wasn't the 2.0L with a 6 speed manual?...for $22,500?
As none of the turbo sedans, except the Si have a manual tranny.
Positive:
1.5L I-4 Cyl
Manual
FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE
This must be new for '18 sedans as Honda did say that they would be adding manual trannys to more trim lines of the Civic. The first 2 years(2016-17), the manual tranny only came in the 2.0 liter LX "sedan" trim along with coups & hatches.
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Are you sure that the car you were looking at & test driving wasn't the 2.0L with a 6 speed manual?...for $22,500?
As none of the turbo sedans, except the Si have a manual tranny.
Positive:
1.5L I-4 Cyl
Manual
FRONT-WHEEL DRIVE
This must be new for '18 sedans as Honda did say that they would be adding manual trannys to more trim lines of the Civic. The first 2 years(2016-17), the manual tranny only came in the 2.0 liter LX "sedan" trim along with coups & hatches.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I DOUBT it will be as reliable as your 2005. Those are solid cars, I know because I owned a 2006.
I guess you were lucky. 2006-2009 Civics with R18 have engine block problems in the past, cracked engine blocks cause coolant leak.
I DOUBT it will be as reliable as your 2005. Those are solid cars, I know because I owned a 2006.
I guess you were lucky. 2006-2009 Civics with R18 have engine block problems in the past, cracked engine blocks cause coolant leak.
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: Finz
It was a fun ride
Wait..... so the sticker says I-VTEC on this car vs direct injection on others. They’re both direct injection?
What’s up with the VTEC?
That could be a deal killer as I don’t trust direct injection yet especially with so much in-town driving
1.5T is DI and 2.0L N/A engine is not DI.
EX 2.0L looks like the sweet spot if you look for reliability. In Canada, we have SE version which offers the most bang for the buck.
The SE is the 2.0L with a CVT which is not something I would choose to go 200,00 miles. The best bang for the buck is the Civic LX manual in Canada.
Originally Posted By: Finz
It was a fun ride
Wait..... so the sticker says I-VTEC on this car vs direct injection on others. They’re both direct injection?
What’s up with the VTEC?
That could be a deal killer as I don’t trust direct injection yet especially with so much in-town driving
1.5T is DI and 2.0L N/A engine is not DI.
EX 2.0L looks like the sweet spot if you look for reliability. In Canada, we have SE version which offers the most bang for the buck.
The SE is the 2.0L with a CVT which is not something I would choose to go 200,00 miles. The best bang for the buck is the Civic LX manual in Canada.
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: Finz
It was a fun ride
Wait..... so the sticker says I-VTEC on this car vs direct injection on others. They’re both direct injection?
What’s up with the VTEC?
That could be a deal killer as I don’t trust direct injection yet especially with so much in-town driving
1.5T is DI and 2.0L N/A engine is not DI.
EX 2.0L looks like the sweet spot if you look for reliability. In Canada, we have SE version which offers the most bang for the buck.
The SE is the 2.0L with a CVT which is not something I would choose to go 200,00 miles. The best bang for the buck is the Civic LX manual in Canada.
That's why I keep my oldschool automatic CSX as a daily driver. I do not see any reason to upgrade it with 2018, where you have to end up having either CVT or Direct injection.
All I need is a double din head unit with Apple Carplay / Android Auto / bluetooth feature, and there you have 2018-model-year CSX
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: Finz
It was a fun ride
Wait..... so the sticker says I-VTEC on this car vs direct injection on others. They’re both direct injection?
What’s up with the VTEC?
That could be a deal killer as I don’t trust direct injection yet especially with so much in-town driving
1.5T is DI and 2.0L N/A engine is not DI.
EX 2.0L looks like the sweet spot if you look for reliability. In Canada, we have SE version which offers the most bang for the buck.
The SE is the 2.0L with a CVT which is not something I would choose to go 200,00 miles. The best bang for the buck is the Civic LX manual in Canada.
That's why I keep my oldschool automatic CSX as a daily driver. I do not see any reason to upgrade it with 2018, where you have to end up having either CVT or Direct injection.
All I need is a double din head unit with Apple Carplay / Android Auto / bluetooth feature, and there you have 2018-model-year CSX
I really don't see all this fuss about direct injection. I guess it stems from VW's early DI engines, and that has improved. Other car makers have taken note as well, I would see no issues about it nowadays. Turbos and DI are going to be just about the only thing you can buy in the upcoming future.
Originally Posted By: Delta
I really don't see all this fuss about direct injection. I guess it stems from VW's early DI engines, and that has improved. Other car makers have taken note as well, I would see no issues about it nowadays. Turbos and DI are going to be just about the only thing you can buy in the upcoming future.
Me either on DI. One maker has a few issues, solves them and every other one out there is painted with a large brush. I think potential exists based on design but car makers are pretty aware.
I really don't see all this fuss about direct injection. I guess it stems from VW's early DI engines, and that has improved. Other car makers have taken note as well, I would see no issues about it nowadays. Turbos and DI are going to be just about the only thing you can buy in the upcoming future.
Me either on DI. One maker has a few issues, solves them and every other one out there is painted with a large brush. I think potential exists based on design but car makers are pretty aware.
Not sure where you get your information but all DI only engines (GDI, Turbo DI...etc)share the same problem of carbon deposits on the intake valve and no one has a fix for it other than walnut shell/chemical clean. Failing to do so will result in loss of power and fuel economy over time...and it's only a matter of time.
Toyota engines and a perhaps a small group of others that who use both port and direct injection are the only ones who have the solution to address the problem of DI carbon buildup while having the power and benefits that DI provides.
Of course engines with port injection are immune to the issue. Almost all Toyota engines, base Civic 2.0L, base Elantra/Veloster 2.0L and handful of others...
Toyota engines and a perhaps a small group of others that who use both port and direct injection are the only ones who have the solution to address the problem of DI carbon buildup while having the power and benefits that DI provides.
Of course engines with port injection are immune to the issue. Almost all Toyota engines, base Civic 2.0L, base Elantra/Veloster 2.0L and handful of others...
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Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
Not sure where you get your information but all DI only engines (GDI, Turbo DI...etc)share the same problem of carbon deposits on the intake valve and no one has a fix for it other than walnut shell/chemical clean. Failing to do so will result in loss of power and fuel economy over time...and it's only a matter of time.
Can you explain then why I've got 126k of MPG data on DI Engine #1 that shows nearly flat MPG and definitely not a downward trend. On engine #2, another DI engine, I have the data from 48k to 87k with a similar pattern. Engine #1 has never had any cleaning, and I doubt #2 has either (#2 was bought used).
I'd also be interested in how on a modern feedback system MPG would be affected by these deposits as the computer will compensate for the less amount of air with less fuel. Even a clogged air filter doesn't affect MPG of a modern engine all that much.
Can't speak for power loss over time but both run great and seem to have plenty of power. There probably are deposits but you'd never know it.
Not sure where you get your information but all DI only engines (GDI, Turbo DI...etc)share the same problem of carbon deposits on the intake valve and no one has a fix for it other than walnut shell/chemical clean. Failing to do so will result in loss of power and fuel economy over time...and it's only a matter of time.
Can you explain then why I've got 126k of MPG data on DI Engine #1 that shows nearly flat MPG and definitely not a downward trend. On engine #2, another DI engine, I have the data from 48k to 87k with a similar pattern. Engine #1 has never had any cleaning, and I doubt #2 has either (#2 was bought used).
I'd also be interested in how on a modern feedback system MPG would be affected by these deposits as the computer will compensate for the less amount of air with less fuel. Even a clogged air filter doesn't affect MPG of a modern engine all that much.
Can't speak for power loss over time but both run great and seem to have plenty of power. There probably are deposits but you'd never know it.
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Not sure. Take a look at your intake valves on those engines....then report back if you are happy with the way they look.
Some engines are not as sensitive to the build up as others. Some give check engine lights before 75K.
Some engines are not as sensitive to the build up as others. Some give check engine lights before 75K.
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
Not sure. Take a look at your intake valves on those engines....then report back if you are happy with the way they look.
I have no need to look at them as the engine is running fine both in MPG and in performance. The fact that they may "look ugly" is no big deal as long as they work.
Not sure. Take a look at your intake valves on those engines....then report back if you are happy with the way they look.
I have no need to look at them as the engine is running fine both in MPG and in performance. The fact that they may "look ugly" is no big deal as long as they work.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Both of you are likely correct. DI carbon deposits is still an issue but almost assuredly overblown by internet forums. I took a few weeks to go over many posts on the Hyundai boards and have come to the conclusion that nothing is a cure... not low Noack, short oci, catch cans, synthetic oils, Top Tier gas, nothing. Most members of these forums are "car people" who care to go an extra mile for maintaining their vehicles. In line with this is going with what has been considered by industry publications, studies, and knowledge sharing that a low Noack Synthetic and Premium fuel is the way to go.
If only this were the case. Many of these forum members are now very disappointed that they've been using a "Full Synthetic at 5K mile oci, Premium fuel along with some using a catch can" and now have carbon deposit issues or are showing drivabilty symptoms associated with it. When these guys post this news, the Conventional oil users pounce, citing that they have no issues and have running the cheapest dino since new and are now near 100k miles... Then when a member whose run Conventional all along gets deposits, the Synthetic crowd pounces with their views, chastising the guy for going Conventional and not using low Noack Synthetic etc. All of this language is very predictable. Unfortunately GDI deposits are not.
In all, both, Synthetic and Conventional oil users get... and dont get deposits. I now doubt oil plays a significant role. So far, after owning a few Hyundai, I've been lucky. And to be honest, my T-GDI Santa Fe has over 100k miles and is the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.
If only this were the case. Many of these forum members are now very disappointed that they've been using a "Full Synthetic at 5K mile oci, Premium fuel along with some using a catch can" and now have carbon deposit issues or are showing drivabilty symptoms associated with it. When these guys post this news, the Conventional oil users pounce, citing that they have no issues and have running the cheapest dino since new and are now near 100k miles... Then when a member whose run Conventional all along gets deposits, the Synthetic crowd pounces with their views, chastising the guy for going Conventional and not using low Noack Synthetic etc. All of this language is very predictable. Unfortunately GDI deposits are not.
In all, both, Synthetic and Conventional oil users get... and dont get deposits. I now doubt oil plays a significant role. So far, after owning a few Hyundai, I've been lucky. And to be honest, my T-GDI Santa Fe has over 100k miles and is the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned.
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I DOUBT it will be as reliable as your 2005. Those are solid cars, I know because I owned a 2006.
I guess you were lucky. 2006-2009 Civics with R18 have engine block problems in the past, cracked engine blocks cause coolant leak.
I am well aware of the issues the Civics had, however the OP currently has a 2005 Accord not a Civic.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I DOUBT it will be as reliable as your 2005. Those are solid cars, I know because I owned a 2006.
I guess you were lucky. 2006-2009 Civics with R18 have engine block problems in the past, cracked engine blocks cause coolant leak.
I am well aware of the issues the Civics had, however the OP currently has a 2005 Accord not a Civic.
DI intake valve deposits are mostly dependant on the usage type. Lots of short trips, low RPM, cold starts are the most significant contributors to the problem.
People that like to rev. their engines, or have long highway commutes are probably in the best position to have trouble free operation.
People that like to rev. their engines, or have long highway commutes are probably in the best position to have trouble free operation.
OP read the reviews, they speak for themselves, and buy the car if you like it and can justify it. Some will bring up fuel dilution and DI as if they're the boogeyman. No one has been able to point to a failure due to fuel dilution (which mainly happens during cold winter weather) and DI side effects can be monitored, managed, and something you shouldn't need to worry about for years (this is not unique to Honda).
My dad has a 2017 Civic, it's fantastic to drive and gets great MPG. He was "stepping down" from and Accord and he actually likes the Civic more.
My dad has a 2017 Civic, it's fantastic to drive and gets great MPG. He was "stepping down" from and Accord and he actually likes the Civic more.
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