2017+ Elantra 2.0L owners - Coolant Temp Test!....
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Originally Posted By: PeterPolyol
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
No.
Either pony up the coin for a better car or stop complaining.
Because MSRP directly correlates to heater output... seriously?
I never said anything about MSRP. I'm speaking in regards to the quality of a vehicle. How it's built and the amount of R&D is involved. The cars in my sig were purchased (by me) far cheaper than the original MSRP. They are a couple of the most simplistic (by today's standards) yet have records for being the most durable and reliable.
You guys can play this game all you want of chasing the cause of the heating issue by changing thermostat, rads, coolant etc.. The real cause is the decreasing size of engines (where the heat is transferred from) as well as the material used to construct the engine block Aluminum (Alum). Alum is great for being strong and lightweight, but it's terrible at retaining heat. Cast Iron on the other hand is GREAT at retaining heat but is terribly heavy (which is why it isn't used anymore). Older econo cars never had this issue as their engine blocks were all made of cast iron.
So unless you are willing to drive your car like a madman to create and maintain a steady stream of heat, tepid heat is something you'll just have to get used to.
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
No.
Either pony up the coin for a better car or stop complaining.
Because MSRP directly correlates to heater output... seriously?
I never said anything about MSRP. I'm speaking in regards to the quality of a vehicle. How it's built and the amount of R&D is involved. The cars in my sig were purchased (by me) far cheaper than the original MSRP. They are a couple of the most simplistic (by today's standards) yet have records for being the most durable and reliable.
You guys can play this game all you want of chasing the cause of the heating issue by changing thermostat, rads, coolant etc.. The real cause is the decreasing size of engines (where the heat is transferred from) as well as the material used to construct the engine block Aluminum (Alum). Alum is great for being strong and lightweight, but it's terrible at retaining heat. Cast Iron on the other hand is GREAT at retaining heat but is terribly heavy (which is why it isn't used anymore). Older econo cars never had this issue as their engine blocks were all made of cast iron.
So unless you are willing to drive your car like a madman to create and maintain a steady stream of heat, tepid heat is something you'll just have to get used to.
Interesting logistics there. Are you certain it's as simple as having an aluminum engine block? My old Camry 5SFE had unacceptable heater output in the cold, conversely aluminum engines I've had have spit out plenty of heat ie. small 2.5 V6 gave heat fast and plentiful. You're right that it comes down to R&D and paying attention to proper heat management. Newer engine (thermal) efficiency levels are a newer challenge. With great advances in this area, cabin heating needs to be reconsidered.
For a long time, output-side thermostat designs were used to combat rapid temperature fluctuations, but again poor implementation can negate the benefit of the design like in the 5SFE. When it wasn't freezing cold, the head was busy running too hot.
For a long time, output-side thermostat designs were used to combat rapid temperature fluctuations, but again poor implementation can negate the benefit of the design like in the 5SFE. When it wasn't freezing cold, the head was busy running too hot.
I've got the same problem with my 2008 Accent and went to a 190F t-stat vs the OE 180F. Though that does no good for a 1/2 hours driving or so.
The engines just doen't make much heat to waste and the heater core with the fan on high just sucks all the heat out. The OE t-stats are 180F, fully open at 203F.
But what does help is to put some cardboard in front of the condenser. I use a 12" x 12" x 12" box unfolded. It fits perfectly in front of the horns. So it's about 3" from the actual condenser but covers the entire front.
Now it will run mid 180Fs but still will take quite a while to hit the 190F opening temp.
The engines just doen't make much heat to waste and the heater core with the fan on high just sucks all the heat out. The OE t-stats are 180F, fully open at 203F.
But what does help is to put some cardboard in front of the condenser. I use a 12" x 12" x 12" box unfolded. It fits perfectly in front of the horns. So it's about 3" from the actual condenser but covers the entire front.
Now it will run mid 180Fs but still will take quite a while to hit the 190F opening temp.
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