2016 Civic Type R FK2 K20C1 - Honda Engine Type 2.0 0W20 - 2743 km Race track

[CarfriendXX]

Hey there.
Here is my analysis report from my Honda Civic Type R FK2 2016 with the K20C1 engine. In this oil Intervall I only drive to the Race Track Nordschleife and GP Track and over it. Only highspeed and high temperature ( oil temperature 100-124C ).
I only use Honda OEM Engine Type 2.0 0W20, which was produced by idemitsu lubricants. Here in Europe Honda recommended only this type of oil for this type r.
Ar the Right side you can see the fresh oil analysis from this engine type. What do you say ?

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Any oil additives on this or last Oil Change Interval? Or maybe different oil used before this fill? Or a top off happened with different oil? If on the right you have the Virgin oil sample, and on left a Used oil sample, then those calcium numbers really stand out... Also wonder if extra silicone is residual from previous fill, or if maybe your air intake system is in need of attention.

P.S. Seems like the oil viscosity is working for now, but with long term longevity in mind I'd be tempted to up the viscosity a bit. Like 5W40/0W40 for example. All manufacturers usually suggest in owner manuals that if the vehicle is under severe duty - then oil needs to be changed more frequently (which you seem to be already doing with this short interval) and higher viscosity should be used.

Edit: the wording in the included pages from Civic Type R owners manual looks like 0W20 was recommended to try to achieve higher fuel economy and lower CO emissions. Not exactly for high stress driving on the racetrack... So I'd definitely look into higher viscosity, to preserve the engine bearings.
(My brother just spun bearings in his engine, after filling the crankcase with leftover of 4qts of Idemitsu 0W20 and 2qts of Rotella 5w40, instead of full capacity of Rotella T6 5W40 that he normally uses. It only took a little over 1000 miles before the bearings spun. He is rebuilding the engine now. Engine is 2JZ-GE in Lexus IS300.)

 

[CarfriendXX]

Thanks for your post. In this Analysis is a Little Bit of mobil 1fs 0w40, but not much of this.
You are right that Honda recommends 0w20 for fuel efficiency and low emission. But you can see that this engine oil would be perform very good under highspeed and hot temperatures. I will changed my engine oil after 5000 kilometres or one year, I only drive in the summer. If you only drive 5000 kilometres I don’t believe that you can see a better analysis report with 5w40 or 0w40. The Viscosity improvers are very high at this engine oils. I will try Honda oem in the Future , too. The next analysis It will be more kilometres on the oil change.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Me being a thickie, I'd run no thinner than a 5W-30 in your car. My Accord gets a steady diet of synth 5W-30.

 

[mightymousetech]

All my Civics were primarily track cars (K20’s), and they all lived on Euro 0W40. 0W20 was not designed for the high oil temps of track use. What is the HTHS of that Honda 0W20? Just like brake pads, you have to pick something that will work at the temps they will see, that is why there are street pads, and there are track pads, and they are not the same.

 

[CarfriendXX]

You are right, but I don’t have seen a better analysis with w30 or w40 engine oil. Why should I use it, even when the results are the same ?

 

[Graham Piccinini]

You are right, but I don’t have seen a better analysis with w30 or w40 engine oil. Why should I use it, even when the results are the same ?

Because they are the same NOW. If you keep it up with 0W20, then with every UOA the gap will get bigger between 0W20 and 0W40 UOA results. That is why earlier I said that for longevity of the engine bearings a 0W40 is a better option given your use of the vehicle.
In summary: Track use and 0W20 intially seems alright, but WILL shorted the life of the bearings. Track use and 0W40/5W40 will provide sufficient Long-term low wear on the bearings and turbo. Higher viscosity oils also usually have higher flash point, meaning it will not cook up inside the turbos, or will be a lot more resistant to it, compared to 0W20 oils. But if you insist on 0W20 being good enough - then please don't forget to post pictures or info here when the engine spins a crank bearing and needs a rebuild, or when turbo fails due to worn out bearings, or oil starvation caused by deposits from burned up 0W20.

 

[CarfriendXX]

Here is an analysis report with any reports and the same Motul 300v 0w20. No problems with wear.
He often drives on racetrack and trackdays. Very good results with the 0w20 of Motul , which additives are like the Honda oem.

Motul Ow-20 300V Used Oil Analysis Thread

Hey all, Here's my first Used Oil Analysis with the Type R. It had a total of 5,500 miles and two track days on this oil. I changed out the factory oil at 6,000 ish miles. Total miles at submission: 11,500. This is also on a stock vehicle with no oil cooler.

www.civicx.com

 

[Graham Piccinini]

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ time will tell. Keep us posted. I'm sticking with higher viscosity oils in those engines that spend most of their life in the upper range of RPM.

 

[CarfriendXX]

What do you think and which experience do you have with Motul 300v engine oils ? What are you thinking about Amsoil signature series ?

 

[CarfriendXX]

Here you can see the Honda 1.5 Turbo directly injected turbo after 100000 kilometres. Oil change all 15000 kilometres with Honda engine type 2.0 0W20 by the Honda dealer. There is an absolut clean turbocharger, where you can don‘t see everywhere. No cocking at the charger and absolutely cleanless. The 0w20 which Honda uses has very good additives.

Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC im Dauertest

Die 100.000-Kilometer-Tour von AUTO BILD mit dem Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC ist vorbei. Die Bilanz der Redakteure: ein harter Typ mit zarten Seiten.

www.autobild.de

 

[john_pifer]

This is a special engine. High-performance. Turbo. DI. 2.0, pushing 300+ HP.

Don’t even consider a 0W-20, unless you’re driving miss Daisy around.

If this were my car, I’d run M1 ESP 5W-30 or Motul 8100 X-Clean+.

Why those? Because they have a 3.5 HTHS rating, for protection against shear, yet they don’t require much viscosity-modifying polymer additive to achieve their cold pumpability ratings, due to the very high quality base oils they’re made with.

Those high quality base oils will also mean a great Noack score (low volatility).

Less VM additives and low Noack equal cleaner pistons, intake valves, and happy turbo bearings.

Enjoy the car! I’ve seriously considered getting one to replace my 2016 WRX that I sold a couple of years ago, as I love the light weight, handling, incredible engine, the manual transmission, and the utility that the hatchback offers.

Post some pictures!

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Here you can see the Honda 1.5 Turbo directly injected turbo after 100000 kilometres. Oil change all 15000 kilometres with Honda engine type 2.0 0W20 by the Honda dealer. There is an absolut clean turbocharger, where you can don‘t see everywhere. No cocking at the charger and absolutely cleanless. The 0w20 which Honda uses has very good additives.

Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC im Dauertest

Die 100.000-Kilometer-Tour von AUTO BILD mit dem Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC ist vorbei. Die Bilanz der Redakteure: ein harter Typ mit zarten Seiten.

www.autobild.de

The "cooking" of the oil does not happen on the hot or cold side of the turbo. It happens around the shaft that connects the two sides of the turbo, and on the bearings that let that shaft spin freely at over 100,000 times per minute. Therefore you will not see it unless you completely disassemble the turbocharger. Turbocharger has super tiny oil passages, and even the smallest deposit build up will restrict oil flow and lead to failure. Did that 1.5T spend its life on the racetrack or on daily driver duty with occasional spirited driving? For a daily driver that is driven spiritedly sometimes, the OEM Honda 0W20 Type 2.0 oil is plenty. But if an engine spends nearly all of it's life being pushed to the limit at the racetrack, then this oil will be the reason for any upcoming failures involving engine bearings or turbocharger. Get the wallet ready for that rebuild.
Again - for a daily driver your oil of choice is perfect. But for a race track toy - not the best choice for long term reliability.

 

[CarfriendXX]

Which other engine oils would you prefer,too? Motul 300v is not an option ?

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Motul 300V is a great option, just bump the viscosity a bit. 5w30? 5w40?

 

[CarfriendXX]

Motul 300v 5w40 drive JAS Motorsport in all TCR civics. They recommended for all these engine, which are stock in tcr. Have someone experience with these engine oils on street?

 

[edyvw]

Motul 300v 5w40 drive JAS Motorsport in all TCR civics. They recommended for all these engine, which are stock in tcr. Have someone experience with these engine oils on street?

There is place for light oils on track. But Nordschleife is not that track. Motul 300V is staple oil of track world. They even offer 0W16 oil. But that is mostly for drag racing and other short runs. You want as little as possible parasitic loss and lighter the oil, less parasitic loss= better performance.
However, longer runs mean higher temperatures and more pressure on oil. That is where heavier oils come into play. What you want to look for is HTHS above 3.5. If oil temperature never goes above 124c, 5W30 might be ok considering that Nordschleife is not on high altitude and ambient temperatures are not excessive.
Next question is: how often is on track? If you go to track 2-3 times a year, forget Motul 300V. You need stout street oil. If you “live” on track, than Motul 300V is the answer. I personally would go any reputable oil that has more SAPS unless you have GPF. Mobil1 0W40, Castrol 0W40.
If you have GPF, go C3 oils that have MB229.51/52, BMW LL04, VW511.00, Porsche C40 approvals. If you go 5W30 oils go VW504.00/507.00 oils. All these oils have HTHS above 3.5.
If you want tru track oil you can go either 300V 5W30 or 5W40. Both will cut it. See which one you like best. Lighter will spool turbo faster so you want balance there, not too thin, but not too thick.

 

[CarfriendXX]

Thanks for your answer. I am only 2-3 times on track in the year. But I will best protection ever for my car, I only drive not many kilometers the year. I have no GPF, I can use ACEA A5/A3 engine oils. You would prefer Mobil 1 fs 0w40? Or Mobil esp 5w30? Motul 300V is not for Track use, if I would change it after 5000 kilometers not, too? What’s up with Amsoil? Good or no good ?

 

[edyvw]

Thanks for your answer. I am only 2-3 times on track in the year. But I will best protection ever for my car, I only drive not many kilometers the year. I have no GPF, I can use ACEA A5/A3 engine oils. You would prefer Mobil 1 fs 0w40? Or Mobil esp 5w30? Motul 300V is not for Track use, if I would change it after 5000 kilometers not, too? What’s up with Amsoil? Good or no good ?

Motul 300V requires high operating temperatures for additives to work.
ACEA A5 is thinner than A3.
2-3 times I year on track? Castrol 0W40 or Mobil1 0W40. Actually Mobil1 recommends that oil for track use. Castrol has bit higher HTHS and lower SAPS which is better suited for direct injection engines.
But, both are exceptional oils! I would forget 300V in your case. Now, there is Motul Sport 5W40 which is more of dual street/track oil with bit better oxidation control than 300V. Sport 5W40 has same HTHS as 300V 5W40, but KV100 is higher. Again, I would go M1 or Castrol 0W40. I used both on track in my BMW in much worse conditions than Nordschleife has.

 

[CarfriendXX]

Mobil 1 esp x3 0w40 with Porsche C40? Or Mobil 1 fs 0w40? I don’t need Castrol , lovely mobil 1