2013 Volvo S80 3.2, 5198 mi, Castrol Euro 5W30 A3/B4

Joined
Dec 23, 2020
Messages
1,621
Location
Midwest
VOA is on the first line, labeled BL (for Baseline).
Second line is the oil that was in the car (unknown dealer bulk) when we bought the car.
Third line is the used sample of the baseline (Castrol Euro Car 5W30 A3/B4 API SL).

Apparently Oil Analyzers forgot that Titanium is in the baseline sample and still flagged this used sample. They also did not make the connection that that high magnesium (120) is due to carryover from the previous oil (727). Same with the Calcium, which is lower than baseline because of the low Calcium in the carryover oil.

This car idles a lot, but does get about 50/50 city/highway driving. Wear metals are pretty good (combined 3.46ppm per 1000 miles), but the car does seem to be hard on the oil. I noticed this sample and the previous, the TBN seems lower than it should be for the mileage. Perhaps that's partially due to lots of idling. Oxidation is almost double the virgin value. Silicon is actually lower than the virgin value, so my air filtration must be outstanding. :) Another indicator of this car being hard on the oil is the viscosity loss, even absent significant fuel dilution.

I'm pretty happy with the report. The oil that replaced this is Castrol Edge Euro Car 5W40 A3/B4 API SP. It's got an even higher starting TBN, and I may push it 7500 miles.

13S80102223.png
 
I just bought into one of these engines so it's noteworthy to follow your UOA progress. I plan to run a 40 grade as well since i'd like to go 7.5k w/o major visc loss (need to get a Fumoto Valve). I see what you speak of on the Oxidation increase but you're still way within normal readings on that. Scroll down to "Typical Lubricant Guidelines" https://www.oaitesting.com/reading-reports.aspx and you'll see that you still have +12 to go before reaching outside of what's considered "Normal" for oxidation or an Ox. value of 23.

I often wonder if a V engine has better cooling properties than an inline engine. I know the thermostat is 194F but maybe an inline stays up there for longer periods. Just thinking out loud. But to note the obvious these are smaller engines with higher compression so the oil is taking a beating a bit.

Overall this report looks really great. Wear low & other perimeters are well below their breaking points. A 40 should give more piece of mind to go the full 7.5k w/o losing visc. but 10.7 is still respectable at the end run for a 5w-30.

Keep it up & it'll outlive us both!
 
Thanks for the comments and for the link to the OAI testing parameters. I'd been looking for such a page! I found it funny that you called this 3.2l inline 6 a "smaller engine" as it looks massive in the engine compartment due to it's wide design. :) Keep us posted on yours as well! The >10 TBN in the 5W40 oil that's in there now should have plenty of juice to make it 7.5k miles.
 
Thanks for the comments and for the link to the OAI testing parameters. I'd been looking for such a page! I found it funny that you called this 3.2l inline 6 a "smaller engine" as it looks massive in the engine compartment due to it's wide design. :) Keep us posted on yours as well! The >10 TBN in the 5W40 oil that's in there now should have plenty of juice to make it 7.5k miles.
It's bigger than all the inline 4's I've had but I suppose I'm used to looking at bigger engines so this one looks smaller in comparison but you're right it's not exactly tiny ha ha. Especially in your S80 Sedan compared to my XC90 perhaps the engine bays are different sizes too. I've been looking at 40 grade oils & I think I might just go with a diesel/gas truck oil. Their SN rated ad packs are slightly higher than what an A3/B4 would be & the visc. would hold up well through the duration. I'm thinking 15w-40 Mobil Delvac 1300 CK-4/SN although that one has less Phosphorus & Zinc (700-900) so it may be easier on the cats. I'll figure it out & yes I plan to post UOA on this one too as you do. I've noticed the manuals are all over the place on sump capacity. Mine says 7.7 Quarts. What does your manual state?
 
I've noticed the manuals are all over the place on sump capacity. Mine says 7.7 Quarts. What does your manual state?
7.18 qts. Exactly. lol

oil capacity.jpg


One thing to watch out for is slow drain time. I thought I got most of the oil out on our first oil change with the car, but to check I hand tightened the drain plug, then measured what I got out. It was only around 5qts (dipstick showed full), so I slid the drain pan back in place, took the drain plug back out, and a bunch more came out. I let it drain a good 45 minutes. At that point I measured >7qts and was satisfied.

This 2nd oil change, I learned from the first. I let the bulk drain out in the first 5 min, put the drain plug back in loosely, then went in the house and relaxed for an hour. Came back out, pulled the plug, and watch a bunch more come out. Then I waited til it was a slow drip (probably 10 minutes) before torquing the drain plug back on.
 
7.18 qts. Exactly. lol

View attachment 185578

One thing to watch out for is slow drain time. I thought I got most of the oil out on our first oil change with the car, but to check I hand tightened the drain plug, then measured what I got out. It was only around 5qts (dipstick showed full), so I slid the drain pan back in place, took the drain plug back out, and a bunch more came out. I let it drain a good 45 minutes. At that point I measured >7qts and was satisfied.

This 2nd oil change, I learned from the first. I let the bulk drain out in the first 5 min, put the drain plug back in loosely, then went in the house and relaxed for an hour. Came back out, pulled the plug, and watch a bunch more come out. Then I waited til it was a slow drip (probably 10 minutes) before torquing the drain plug back on.
Interesting & good information. I usually wait for things to drip dry but I'll keep this in mind & measure what comes out. The last owner had the dealer put in the Valvoline in my signature & according to when I called that dealer yesterday they claimed they did put in Euro spec'd Valvoline 5w-30 so we'll see how it shows up on a UOA. I think your engine has a different model number designation since there were some big updates around 2011+. Yep, Mines a B6324S while yours is a B6324S4 & those changes resulted in less oil being used in your engine sump.
 
Last edited:
Here are the oil filter efficiencies of what I believe to be the OEM Mann oil filter inside a Purolator Classic box. That is if we use the same OEM Mann HU925/4Y oil filter. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/l25692-purolator-classic-specification-sheet.375069/
My first OC I used a Fram TG with a 20 micron rating at 99%, but later I started reading Amazon reviews where the pleats seemed to separate from the glue in a lot of cases. So this time I went with genuine Volvo with a 38 micron rating. And from what I've read, the Volvo is identical to the Mann HU9254Y. I did get a spec sheet from Mann:
oil filter.jpg
 
^^ That does appear to be the exact same filter as the Purolator L25692, except for a few small inconsistencies, it's overall the same it appears. So if you find a Purolator that's cheaper you win. Purolator doesn't even offer a One or Boss for that line which tells me they are sourcing this Classic filter from Mann.
 
Back
Top