Does anyone here know how to adjust the free play on my clutch? I've been having issues with the shifting feeling real notchy, infact, when its cold, it will even "crunch" going into 2nd until the transmission heats up. I have to shift it like a dump truck at all times, nice and slow. It gets better as it heats up, but never really feels "smooth". Anyways, I've asked around on a couple scion xb forums and they all recommended adjusting the clutch free play, but no one has told me how to do it and what it should be set to yet. Anyone have experience with this? thanks.
2012 Scion Xb clutch adjustment
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I can tell you how to do it, but is that really the problem? It might be the fluid.
To test of the problem is in fact the clutch not completely releasing fast enough because of pedal maladjustment, on a level surface with the engine running, clutch pedal pushed in, e brake activated, and the trans in 1st gear, slowly start letting off the pedal to see how far off the floorboard the pedal goes before the clutch starts grabbing. You can do it I guess without the ebrake applied. If there is about a half inch or more play from where the pedal is fully pressed in and where it starts grabbing and sending power through the transmission when you slowly release it, the pedal/clutch is adjusted perfectly. Even if there's a little slop or dead space in the pedal when it's completely released.
You can't adjust the clutch itself; it's hydraulic. But you can adjust the clutch pedal.
To test of the problem is in fact the clutch not completely releasing fast enough because of pedal maladjustment, on a level surface with the engine running, clutch pedal pushed in, e brake activated, and the trans in 1st gear, slowly start letting off the pedal to see how far off the floorboard the pedal goes before the clutch starts grabbing. You can do it I guess without the ebrake applied. If there is about a half inch or more play from where the pedal is fully pressed in and where it starts grabbing and sending power through the transmission when you slowly release it, the pedal/clutch is adjusted perfectly. Even if there's a little slop or dead space in the pedal when it's completely released.
You can't adjust the clutch itself; it's hydraulic. But you can adjust the clutch pedal.
The other thing to measure is freeplay in the pedal - how much slack there is when you start pressing on the pedal before you feel resistance and the pedal movement translates into actually hydraulically pushing in on the pressure plate springs. You can do that with your fingers. Press on the clutch pedal lightly until you feel resistance. That amount of slack should be about 1/2 inch of measured freeplay.
In fact, you might want to look at your owners manual. Many Toyota's have the freeplay and other clutch pedal measurements in the manual.
In fact, you might want to look at your owners manual. Many Toyota's have the freeplay and other clutch pedal measurements in the manual.
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My thoughts were its the fluid as well, I was just hoping to get some "measurements" so I could check the free play and make sure it isn't clutch related. I'll be changing my oil in about 2,000miles, and I have some Amsoil manual transmission oil of the proper weight I want to put in the transmission as well. I forgot to mention, but I bought it with 5400miles on it, and only have 9800miles on it now. I don't know if the factory fluid is just junk or what, i would have thought it would last longer than that.
Make sure you bring it to the dealers attention and get documentation that they said "They all do that".
Not saying there is any issue, just indicating it pays to document irregularities should something occur later.
I didn't change FF in my Toyota until 30K, there is just no way I could see it "wearing out" in < 10K unless someone supplied them a defective batch
Needless to say, but I will, a lot here use a premium gear lube.
Not saying there is any issue, just indicating it pays to document irregularities should something occur later.
I didn't change FF in my Toyota until 30K, there is just no way I could see it "wearing out" in < 10K unless someone supplied them a defective batch
Needless to say, but I will, a lot here use a premium gear lube.
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XB 2012 owner as well. (Auto)
Youre still under warranty, correct???
Anyway, The pedal adjustment should be a threaded rod connected to the clutch pedal right at the fire wall area. You should be able to see it looking up into the drivers foot well
Joe
Youre still under warranty, correct???
Anyway, The pedal adjustment should be a threaded rod connected to the clutch pedal right at the fire wall area. You should be able to see it looking up into the drivers foot well
Joe
That's junk fluid more than a badly-adjusted clutch pedal. I replaced the fluid in my Cruze with Amsoil Synchromesh, and it shifts much better and more consistently than on the factory runoff installed in it before.
The oem transmission fluid is garabage. I changed mine out at 5k miles on my '08 xB because it was so notchy. I've tried Redline MT-90 and MT-90/MTL mix both were horrible in cold weather.
Use Eneos MTF and never look back. It has been great in cold and warm weather for me for the last two years, 25k miles.
There's a review on here from another xb owner with almost the exact experience as me.
http://www.amazon.com/ENEOS-MTF-QT-Transmission-Differential/product-reviews/B002GI42DU
Use Eneos MTF and never look back. It has been great in cold and warm weather for me for the last two years, 25k miles.
There's a review on here from another xb owner with almost the exact experience as me.
http://www.amazon.com/ENEOS-MTF-QT-Transmission-Differential/product-reviews/B002GI42DU
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There is generally a little threaded rod from the pedal [at the top] to the clutch master cyl.
You get at it under the dash.
Adjust it for just a hair more than zero freeplay. No preload, just when she is free.
Pedal height adj. is rarely needed unless you messed with it, but the stop at the top of the pedal may need adjustment, for a longer travel .
Do your travel check/adj. FIRST, then the freeplay.
A good bleed is always welcome.
You get at it under the dash.
Adjust it for just a hair more than zero freeplay. No preload, just when she is free.
Pedal height adj. is rarely needed unless you messed with it, but the stop at the top of the pedal may need adjustment, for a longer travel .
Do your travel check/adj. FIRST, then the freeplay.
A good bleed is always welcome.
Or it might be normal on a cold morning. Some transmissions don't like to shift when cold and oil is thicker.
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
Or it might be normal on a cold morning. Some transmissions don't like to shift when cold and oil is thicker.
That's related to the fluid used. Some MT lubes have better cold shifting than others.
Or it might be normal on a cold morning. Some transmissions don't like to shift when cold and oil is thicker.
That's related to the fluid used. Some MT lubes have better cold shifting than others.
I'm just surprised these things shift this poorly. I've driven trucks that shifted better than this thing does. I will second the clutch engagement being tricky on these things too, between that and the [censored] throttle response, I've stalled this thing more in the 4months I've had it than I have anything else my entire life. Finally getting the hang of it though.
well, I changed the oil in the transmission to the Amsoil stuff two weekends ago, and I'm not overly thrilled with it. I feel like it shifts even worse with this stuff. Its even harder to get into 2nd when its cold, and even though it goes into gear ok once warmed up, I can now "feel" it go into all the gears when hot. Maybe this stuff is a little to "slick" to allow the syncros to do their thing fast enough. Either that, or I do have a problem with my cluth adjustment. I might try the Eneos stuff yet as that seems to be the cure-all for these transmissions on the Scion boards. If that doesn't work, then its definately going to the dealer, or getting the factory toyota stuff again.
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