2011 Honda Pilot - Factory Fill - 6242mi - 10% OLM

[kcrw02]

2011 Honda Pilot v6
Factory fill
6242 miles and 8 months
Oil life monitor at 10%

approx 80% of miles were 10mi commute each way. Remaining 20% is highway long trips.

I refilled with Mobile 1 and a PureOne filter.

Code:
Comments: We're glad that you dumped this factory oil in your 3.5L, because it always has a bunch of junk in it

from the wear-in process that can get abrasive if left in place to long. Metals are a little higher than we

typically see in wear-in samples, so that might be the case here. Things should clear up after 2 or 3 more oil

changes. Universal averages show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 6,000 miles on the

oil. The viscosity was in the 5w20 range and the 1.8% fuel dilution isn't a big concern. Try just 5,000 miles

on the next oil to wash that stuff out.



mi on oil 6242

mi on unit 6242

sample date 1/28/2011

make up oil added 1 qt



ALUMINUM 34

CHROMIUM 5

IRON 85

COPPER 203

LEAD 6

TIN 0

MOLYBDENUM 272

NICKEL 1

MANGANESE 12

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 0

POTASSIUM 4

BORON 78

SILICON 70

SODIUM 53

CALCIUM 1515

MAGNESIUM 136

PHOSPHORUS 592

ZINC 733

BARIUM 3



SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 45.7

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 5.95

Flashpoint in °F 330

Fuel % 1.8

Antifreeze % 0.0

Water % 0.0

Insolubles % 0.4

 

[ChiTDI]

Honda is credited with using a very specific break-in oil. Lot of moly in that report. What mileage did they say to change it?
I think you have a good reference point to watch the wear meatals trend down and the shearing stabilize.

Welcome to Bitog !

 

[river_rat]

Shows less moly than Valvoline Maxlife. Try Toyota OEM or Redline if you want more than that.
Considering this was break-in, it looks pretty good.
Thanks for posting!

 

[callbay]

So glad to have an oil test and they said there was "a bunch of junk in it". I still believe in changing the factory fill at 1,000 mikes or so . I know a lot of BITOG's say no need to anymore but I stil belive it is best.

Not the best comparison but I bought a new pressure washer with a Chinese engine on it. After running a half house os so there were visable particles of metal in the oil. No it did not have a filter but still seems beter not to take a chance and leave any particles in an engine for 10,000 miles like some of the manufactures say now. It's to be "green" not to help your engine.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: callbay
So glad to have an oil test and they said there was "a bunch of junk in it". I still believe in changing the factory fill at 1,000 mikes or so . I know a lot of BITOG's say no need to anymore but I stil belive it is best.

Not the best comparison but I bought a new pressure washer with a Chinese engine on it. After running a half house os so there were visable particles of metal in the oil. No it did not have a filter but still seems beter not to take a chance and leave any particles in an engine for 10,000 miles like some of the manufactures say now. It's to be "green" not to help your engine.



I agree that changing the FF early is a good idea but I don't think it's necessary to change it at 1K anymore.
I plan on changing the FF at 2.5 or 3K in my new Chevy...then again about 4K later and then every 6 or 7K (or as the OLM dictates). I think that modern machining processes have enabled manufacturers to call for longer initial OCIs but I'm not willing to go all the way. I feel my plan sort of splits the difference.

 

[moto94536]

thanks for the report. I have to add 3/4 qt on my 2010 pilot too. 8462 Mi - 15 % OLM.

I think base on your report, you need to change oil every 3,000-4,000 miles. since you dive locals, and short trips.

can you tell us how is the engine sound at the idle with the mobil 1? thank you.

 

[steve20]

sure looks like a GM V8 break in doesn't it ?


Steve

 

[Artem]

Seems like there are too many metal shavings floating around in the oil. This engine shouldn't be producing this much metal if thanks to today's technology, the machining process is "sooo" good.

I also support the change it a bit early recommendation. The first few OCIs, just like Blackstone suggested to clean the metal fragments out.

 

[Artem]

I also want to add that i'm kind of disappointed in the 2011 Honda 3.5L in question. Seems like after only 6k the oil is full of [censored]. Could the filter be completely clogged up and in bypass mode?

I would think as a filter ages, it gets slightly better at filtering.

 

[Brons2]

Well, at least the lead (bearing) wear is not too much. Otherwise, this is a horrible report. 5.95 vis, 85 iron, 203 copper? ughhhh. That oil has sheared to 5w10. I'd change at 50% on the OLM until wear stabilizes. If it were me, anyway. Others may disagree.

 

[stubbakatt]

Come on, guys. This was factory fill at over 6000 miles...of course it's going to have iron and copper.

 

[demarpaint]

I agree with those who change their oil early in new vehicles. Granted Honda uses oil with a high moly content for break in, the moly content of that oil isn't overly impressive. If I ever bought a new Honda I'd dump the FF oil early [around 1000 miles] and refill with a high quality dino like PYB. I'd add Lubro Moly or Bio Tech Engine Protectant to boost the moly up. Then probably switch over to a good synthetic oil at around 4000-5000 miles. JMO

 

[WishIhadatruck]

High wear numbers are expected on that long of a run of the FF but it sure seems like the oil has gotten awfully thin. The flash point seems kind of low so the oil likely has a bit of fuel in it. I'd try a few shorter OCI's like others have said. Just the fuel dilution would make me want to change it more often. You'll know more if you test again. The numbers seem very high but hopefully it drops down to a normal range in the future.

 

[Jim Allen]

It's not a bad UOA under the circumstances. We don't get to see many FF UOAs and they are interesting. Honda specifically recommends not dumping the oil early so now we see the results. Thanks for posting. And welcome.

To be honest, while this was an interesting experiment from an oil nerd POV, you may have wasted your money on this UOA. It really didn't tell you anything useful. The first coupla UOAs are always nasty and you can't really use them for trending, for determining OCI (or as a bovine-scatology detector for the OLM) or learn much about engine condition. My suggestion is to run run two more OCIs according to the OLM (presumably around 6K) on the same brand and viscosity oil. On the second, send the oil in for a test with a virgin sample of the oil you used. Pay the extra money for the TBN report on both. You then can compare the used oil to the virgin and get an apples to apples comparison. You'll know the actual starting TBN but, more importantly, it will be "calibrated" to the lab (which looks like Blackstone to me) and their equipment. It's tough to compare readings from different labs with any accuracy because they will all be somewhat different according to the lab standards and equipment and often radically different than what the oil company will present.

Anyway, a sample done that way will tell you a lot about the oil and the OCI. If it's good, they you don't need to UOA except periodically or if you change something in the parameters, like a new oil or something. Don't UOA immediately after the switch to a new oil because the UOA will be skewed by the old oil that remains in the engine. You can sample on the second UOA with better results.

IMO, it's pretty hard to tell anything much on engine condition with a UOA unless you are real lucky. A problem occurs pretty rapidly, usually between the normal mileage of a UOA, so even if you UOA religiously every OCI, you got less than even odds of catching a problem... and you've spent a lot of money along the way for little benefit. Intrinsically, it's something different. I find it fascinating.... even though I have settled back to just occasional UOAs now. Every few years or if I change the equation somehow.

As to the fuel, I would ask about how the sample was taken? Was the engine properly warmed up? A cold start followed by a few minutes of idling would leave you with a reading like that. On the other hand, if you took the sample after arriving home from your typical commute, then you have a snapshot of the way your oil runs normally.

When we bought our '00 3.0L V6 Honda Accord, I dumped it at 1K. I honestly don't know if Honda was using a break-in oil then, but they were still recommending 5W30 and API SL. I didn't start with UOA until '04 and every one has been stellar at 5-8K intervals, ranging from 6 months to 18 month timeframes. My driving cycle is much better than yours, however. Almost all freeway/rural miles.

 

[badtlc]

Looks good. Definitely nothing wrong with this report.

 

[webfors]

This report tells us the FF in that engine should be changed much earlier regardless what Honda says. That's a terrible report. Viscosity is too low, insols creeping up, wear metals high (assuming they mean anything), flash too low, fuel high.

Break in or not, unless that's an intentional 10 weight oil in there, it's absolutely been clobbered, and the OP added a full quart of top up.

Please let us know how the sample was taken. Was the engine at full operating temp? Did you pull the sample mid flow (letting a solid half of the oil drain out, then fill your sample bottle)?

I would listen to Jim Allen's suggestions for future UOA trending to make sure these numbers settle down.

 

[webfors]

Correction, it's just barely a 20 weight. Doesn't change my opinion though.

 

[kcrw02]

wow I am surprised by all the responses. I hope I can catch all the questions.

Now that I see the results I am interested to see the filter but it is long gone by now.

Honda recommends not changing the factory fill oil early thus I listened to them. I just changed to 10% OLM on the way to work that day. Honda recommends changing oil at 5%. I still had about 350 miles.

I did have to add a quart at approx 2500 miles.

I did the oil change immediately when returning from my normal commute. The temp was up to normal. I didn't take it out on highway before changing because that would just burn off all the fuel and that's not how it's driven.

Once I pulled the drain plug I waited 5 seconds then scrambled to find the bottle. I wouldn't say I took the sample halfway in the drain but it was probably close.

Next time I think I will change oil at 30% and run it until 30% and sample that oil. Since I'm skipping a test on the second one I test the fresh stuff I filled with.

Thanks for all the responses. Maybe it was the factory fill that got all the attention

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: webfors


I would listen to Jim Allen's suggestions for future UOA trending to make sure these numbers settle down.


I second that. Jim's post is spot on. Excellent recommendations.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Looks good. Definitely nothing wrong with this report.
Whaaa!? This oil is trashed all around - way out of grade and loaded with ounces and ounces of flotsam. You are lucky you didnt damage the engine. Not smart running break in oil that long. Modern machining mmethods have NOTHING to do with wear in metals. A well built engine made by a master machinist in the sixties will be just as good and most likely BETTER toleranced and finished than cnc milled parts today.