2005 CR-V trans issue, 274k

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Chris Meutsch

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The beloved CR-V now finally has what I can only describe as a first-gear, starting from a stop, "shudder/clicking" and you can feel it slightly as well. Shifts normally otherwise.

Background:

I'm the only person who has ever changed the ATF on this vehicle. Every 30k from new until 265k. When I changed it then, I noticed how abnormally dark the fluid was, and the magnet had a bunch of very fine black magnetic powder attached to it. **This was the first time I've seen these aspects.**
The shudder started about 3 weeks ago. Now at 274k, with an upcoming trip to Buffalo, I figured I better change it again. Took about 15 minutes, put in 5oz of Lubegard Red and 4 quarts of DW-1, and while it does run a little better, the shudder/noise is still there. **The fluid, and magnet, looked the same as they did at 265k, after only an additional 9K.**

I'm assuming the clutch packs are finally wearing out after 14 years and this mileage. The question is, can I potentially get to 300k averaging 9k a year with fluid changes at 5k?
If anyone has had one of these replaced or rebuilt, any cost ideas? The rest of the vehicle is sound minus normal wear and tear (well, the alternator should be replaced but it still charges. It makes things flicker sometimes.)
 
Last edited:
What is the cost to get an estimate from the shop? I mean, someplace who could actually diagnosis the problem. Maybe it's something simple... but at 274k I'm a bit dubious. But a good diagnosis is probably the best place to start.

What is the rust like? If you like it, and it's good otherwise, trans swap might not be that bad. OTOH maybe it's time to move on...
 
Originally Posted by Chris Meutsch
The beloved CR-V now finally has what I can only describe as a first-gear, starting from a stop, "shudder/clicking" and you can feel it slightly as well. Shifts normally otherwise.
Background:
I'm the only person who has ever changed the ATF on this vehicle. Every 30k from new until 265k. When I changed it then, I noticed how abnormally dark the fluid was, and the magnet had a bunch of very fine black magnetic powder attached to it. **This was the first time I've seen these aspects.**
The shudder started about 3 weeks ago. Now at 274k, with an upcoming trip to Buffalo, I figured I better change it again. Took about 15 minutes, put in 5oz of Lubegard Red and 4 quarts of DW-1, and while it does run a little better, the shudder/noise is still there. **The fluid, and magnet, looked the same as they did at 265k, after only an additional 9K.**
I'm assuming the clutch packs are finally wearing out after 14 years and this mileage. The question is, can I potentially get to 300k averaging 9k a year with fluid changes at 5k?
If anyone has had one of these replaced or rebuilt, any cost ideas? The rest of the vehicle is sound minus normal wear and tear (well, the alternator should be replaced but it still charges. It makes things flicker sometimes.)

I imagine you only did D&F rather than a full exchange and if so it served you well. Had you done full exchanges every 30K it would probably not shudder now. In any case with that mileage the car isn't worth spending money on. If you need a new tranny get a used one from a yard, drive it for a year then sell it.
 
Try LG Instant Shudder Fixx. Might buy you a little more time. Got nothing to lose at this point.

FWIW, my Accord's tranny was replaced in 2010 and cost $3200.
 
Things wear out, at 274k with drain and fill every 30k, you've done all you could.

It is not just the clutch pack, the solenoid can also wear out (clearance). I would try a thicker fluid to see if it helps, maybe the Castrol Import Multi Vehicle, it is thicker than DW-1 and Valvoline Maxlife. Thicker fluid in theory will work better when the clearance is worse (i.e. solenoid clearance).

Does the CRV has sentimental value? 274k is a very good run and it doesn't owe you anything. You don't want to drop a used tranny in there and then the head gasket blew or an insurance total it for less than the tranny swap price.
 
Are you sure it's not coming from the rear end? If you don't change the fluid with the VTM4 it will shudder. More so on turns. But still possible if the fluid condition is that bad.

I would also check all the CV axles.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by mattd
Are you sure it's not coming from the rear end? If you don't change the fluid with the VTM4 it will shudder. More so on turns. But still possible if the fluid condition is that bad.


It's the Dual Pump rear end in the CR-V, not VTM. VTM is in the Pilot and Ridgeline. And that's only if AWD.
 
You are correct...dual pump fluid. Been a long time since I have had to service CRVs but I do remember the rear ends would shudder when the fluid gets tired
 
Thanks all!

It's definitely in the front, not the diff. The diff has been serviced with Dual Pump every 60k religiously.

It has great sentimental value.........it's done very well for me. And I'm divorced and paying a lot outbound so a payment really isn't desired.
 
Get pricing on a rebuild and a salvage yard transmission install .

Then see what you can buy for that amount of money .

Try Cargurus,com .
 
A yard trans makes sense but only if you install it yourself.

As mentioned, she's had a good run. 275k miles is remarkable on an original trans. How much is it even worth at that mileage?
 
Originally Posted by PandaBear
Things wear out, at 274k with drain and fill every 30k, you've done all you could.

It is not just the clutch pack, the solenoid can also wear out (clearance). I would try a thicker fluid to see if it helps, maybe the Castrol Import Multi Vehicle, it is thicker than DW-1 and Valvoline Maxlife. Thicker fluid in theory will work better when the clearance is worse (i.e. solenoid clearance).

Does the CRV has sentimental value? 274k is a very good run and it doesn't owe you anything. You don't want to drop a used tranny in there and then the head gasket blew or an insurance total it for less than the tranny swap price.


Really good advice.
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Originally Posted by Chris Meutsch
The beloved CR-V now finally has what I can only describe as a first-gear, starting from a stop, "shudder/clicking" and you can feel it slightly as well. Shifts normally otherwise.
Background:
I'm the only person who has ever changed the ATF on this vehicle. Every 30k from new until 265k. When I changed it then, I noticed how abnormally dark the fluid was, and the magnet had a bunch of very fine black magnetic powder attached to it. **This was the first time I've seen these aspects.**
The shudder started about 3 weeks ago. Now at 274k, with an upcoming trip to Buffalo, I figured I better change it again. Took about 15 minutes, put in 5oz of Lubegard Red and 4 quarts of DW-1, and while it does run a little better, the shudder/noise is still there. **The fluid, and magnet, looked the same as they did at 265k, after only an additional 9K.**
I'm assuming the clutch packs are finally wearing out after 14 years and this mileage. The question is, can I potentially get to 300k averaging 9k a year with fluid changes at 5k?
If anyone has had one of these replaced or rebuilt, any cost ideas? The rest of the vehicle is sound minus normal wear and tear (well, the alternator should be replaced but it still charges. It makes things flicker sometimes.)

I imagine you only did D&F rather than a full exchange and if so it served you well. Had you done full exchanges every 30K it would probably not shudder now. In any case with that mileage the car isn't worth spending money on. If you need a new tranny get a used one from a yard, drive it for a year then sell it.


Lol, yes a full fluid change every 30K miles is what he should have been doing. OP, 274K is an excellent run. The CR-V has served you well! I would look at having a used transmission dropped in. A new (remanufactured) transmission at the dealers should cost around $3500.
 
Get a used one from a junkyard and keep changing the fluid. It will still be much less money than buying a used vehicle that might have other ongoing problems. Either that or get a brand new one and go another 300,000 miles. I would save money and keep driving it until it won't go any longer since you like the vehicle. Those Honda engines last a long time so you should be good to go 500,000 miles.
 
Nicely done - you've done a great job taking care of the CR-V. I don't think you could have done better. Agreeing with 99% of the statements above, start saving for a low mile used unit and drive this one until it grinds. It sounds like a clutch pack or 4 are coming apart, or a bearing is starting to let go, and the wear rate will become logarithmic and one day it will just spin. to keep it going, you'll need to keep the fluid as clean as possible to the very end. So an inline filter that you swap every 5k, or draining, filtering, re-installing fluid back in every 5k could minimize the debris from taking something else out. Note- debris in the fluid WILL clog a solenoid intake screen quickly, so if you can avoid that, you'll get farther on it. How far? anyone's guess. for my $, I'd install a magnefine or spin-on filter and put the money there instead of frequent fluid purchases.
 
Flamesuit on. Back in the Gary Allan golden age some of us reported positive results using Lucas Transmission Fix as a form of transmission hospice (end-of-life care). Of course it doesn't fix anything, but for me it was a fun experiment on a parts-shredding Taurus. Try this after you have a concrete plan in place.
 
UPDATE:

My mechanic has confirmed my suspicions and there's an audible whine in Park and Neutral......and 1st gear chatters when getting started from a stop unless you really baby it. Everything else shifts fine. I'm losing 1st slowly but surely.

It would be more than $4k to put in a reman; so I'm going to be careful and see just how long it may go. I'm not in any financial position to replace the car right now due to divorce/kids.


This vehicle has NEVER given me one issue, or left me stranded. It's 14 and apparently it's time to begin the end. Oh well!
 
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