Run an Xw40 in it until it dies and then buy a JDM engine and swap it if you want to keep it. Probably get several more miles until this happens.
2005 Acura TSX with 272k miles - 9k interval - Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30
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I’d question just how tight your tolerances are in that engine because you’re tossing some bearing material around inside that engine now. I wouldn’t worry about causing issues or if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, it is broke. I would bump that viscosity up and keep that thing going as long as I could.With the mileage, I’ve considered bumping up the viscosity, however, these VTEC engines have very tight tolerances and many oil controlled solenoids, therefore, I’m concerned that this may cause issues. I think we agree in that I should just keep running it like I have. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I guess I’ll plan to do another UOA at 300k and see where it’s at then.
You’re totally fine I run 0/40 or 5/40 all day long. VTECH works normal and on strong at 3800rpm. If you look up the European manual it straight up says run 1540 if you’re in UAEWith the mileage, I’ve considered bumping up the viscosity, however, these VTEC engines have very tight tolerances and many oil controlled solenoids, therefore, I’m concerned that this may cause issues. I think we agree in that I should just keep running it like I have. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I guess I’ll plan to do another UOA at 300k and see where it’s at then.
Nobody knows how long it will last. There’s not many members on here with cases like this that actually see it thru till the end and REPORT BACK.
Yours is an amazing case for such experiments, especially being a one owner.
What was the oil life showing at the time of sampling? Maybe shorten it a bit and sample at the next OC to confirm the metal shedding.
It would be cool if you keep on running it and sample each time to monitor (see it increasing, for example) and see how it goes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it easily makes it to 300k or beyond, even with a slowly failing motor.
Yours is an amazing case for such experiments, especially being a one owner.
What was the oil life showing at the time of sampling? Maybe shorten it a bit and sample at the next OC to confirm the metal shedding.
It would be cool if you keep on running it and sample each time to monitor (see it increasing, for example) and see how it goes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it easily makes it to 300k or beyond, even with a slowly failing motor.
Nobody knows how long it will last. There’s not many members on here with cases like this that actually see it thru till the end and REPORT BACK.
Yours is an amazing case for such experiments, especially being a one owner.
What was the oil life showing at the time of sampling? Maybe shorten it a bit and sample at the next OC to confirm the metal shedding.
It would be cool if you keep on running it and sample each time to monitor (see it increasing, for example) and see how it goes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it easily makes it to 300k or beyond, even with a slowly failing motor.
The 05 TSX doesn’t have an oil life monitor. The motor has been really well maintained for its entire life and runs great. These two UOA are about the longest OCI’s that it has seen. Average OCI over its life is about 7,500 miles using quality synthetic and oil filters. Also, for a K24, it burns very little oil which is why I was very surprised to see the lead and copper values, but I guess I shouldn’t be based on the mileage. I too think that it still has a way to go. I think what I’m going to do it cut the OCI’s down to 5k miles and switch to PP 5w40 and do a UOA every other OCI to monitor. Car is mint, so even if I need to rebuild the engine at some point in the near future, it will definitely be worth it.
I must say I am amazed that many think this engine will keep running.
It is in trouble, it should be fixed.
Like I said, you will not have to worry about oil changes on this car very soon.
Please investigate, especially with a mint chassis.
This is the one thing about UOA, that there is little disagreement about. Problems can be spotted early enough to perhaps impact the situation.
Lead should be zero or near zero on this engine. Plain bearings fail gradually then all at once.
Loose high mileage engines throw less metal, not more, when they are running properly.
It is in trouble, it should be fixed.
Like I said, you will not have to worry about oil changes on this car very soon.
Please investigate, especially with a mint chassis.
This is the one thing about UOA, that there is little disagreement about. Problems can be spotted early enough to perhaps impact the situation.
Lead should be zero or near zero on this engine. Plain bearings fail gradually then all at once.
Loose high mileage engines throw less metal, not more, when they are running properly.
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OP, below is a recent UOA of the K24 from my Accord of the same vintage and almost exact mileage on the car. Mine has had 7,500-12,500 mile OCI’s its entire life. 0w20 and 5w20 is all I’ve ever run in it.
You definitely have a problem.
Here are the options I see that you have:
1) drop the oil pan and inspect the rod bearings to see if they are the culprit. Hopefully, it is the rods and not the mains as rods are likely easier to swap (lots of contingencies here, though)
2) drive it until it quits (which could be tomorrow or years from now), and plan to either replace the engine or get rid of the car when it goes.
3) get rid of it now.
Also, I am jealous of your manual transmission. lol
You definitely have a problem.
Here are the options I see that you have:
1) drop the oil pan and inspect the rod bearings to see if they are the culprit. Hopefully, it is the rods and not the mains as rods are likely easier to swap (lots of contingencies here, though)
2) drive it until it quits (which could be tomorrow or years from now), and plan to either replace the engine or get rid of the car when it goes.
3) get rid of it now.
Also, I am jealous of your manual transmission. lol
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Thanks for your input. In seeing a comparable UOA, I’ll probably drop the pan soon and inspect / replace the rod bearings.
With the mileage, I’ve considered bumping up the viscosity, however, these VTEC engines have very tight tolerances and many oil controlled solenoids, therefore, I’m concerned that this may cause issues. I think we agree in that I should just keep running it like I have. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I guess I’ll plan to do another UOA at 300k and see where it’s at then.
It won't cause any issues. Honda Engines are fairly oil agnostic when it comes down to it. I've run everything from 0W20 to 10W30 and everything in between.
And are still going 174,000 miles later ?
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Yeah, wouldn’t shock me if he can get some more Mileage out of it, I’d like to see how far it would go like that as well.Nobody knows how long it will last. There’s not many members on here with cases like this that actually see it thru till the end and REPORT BACK.
Yours is an amazing case for such experiments, especially being a one owner.
What was the oil life showing at the time of sampling? Maybe shorten it a bit and sample at the next OC to confirm the metal shedding.
It would be cool if you keep on running it and sample each time to monitor (see it increasing, for example) and see how it goes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it easily makes it to 300k or beyond, even with a slowly failing motor.
I've got a 2006 TSX 6MT with 312k miles. On one hand, I'd like to send a sample in for comparison, but on the other hand - ignorance is bliss. 
Mine also runs perfect. No oil burning here, either. Owned it since 2008/10k miles. Best car I've ever had.
Mine also runs perfect. No oil burning here, either. Owned it since 2008/10k miles. Best car I've ever had.- Joined
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If this was my engine, I would pull it and simply do a partial bottom end. Would be cheap parts wise, just not time wise.
I would do it early because of the following:
1) You would be pulling the motor and find any other small things that could be going bad like plastics, hoses, seals, etc. - otherwise you should pull the plugs and look inside...
2) You should be able to inspect the block and see how much life it has by the cylinders
3) Replace the bearings and piston rings (if needed).
4) Probably end up doing the rest of the big item maintenance like coolant replacement and so on since you are spending the time.
If the cylinders are good then why risk the bearing going bye bye and ruining the motor that could probably go another 150k.
I would do it early because of the following:
1) You would be pulling the motor and find any other small things that could be going bad like plastics, hoses, seals, etc. - otherwise you should pull the plugs and look inside...
2) You should be able to inspect the block and see how much life it has by the cylinders
3) Replace the bearings and piston rings (if needed).
4) Probably end up doing the rest of the big item maintenance like coolant replacement and so on since you are spending the time.
If the cylinders are good then why risk the bearing going bye bye and ruining the motor that could probably go another 150k.
There is a possibility that the extended 9k OCI could be causing sludge
which is blocking oil passageways to the bearings and causing the high bearing wear
that the oil testing lab mentioned due to the high wear metals.
If it were my car I would do short oil change intervals,
and also have the valve covers removed to see if there is a sludge issue,
and do a valve adjustment at the same time.
which is blocking oil passageways to the bearings and causing the high bearing wear
that the oil testing lab mentioned due to the high wear metals.
If it were my car I would do short oil change intervals,
and also have the valve covers removed to see if there is a sludge issue,
and do a valve adjustment at the same time.
or M1 0w40
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Its a k series, this should be very easy to do, and also boroscope the cylinders while he is at it.
Or drive what you have for another quarter of a million miles. Assessing main bearing wear from the information in this thread is not possible. Even if there is some wear, it does not necessarily mean the end of the road... I think that we are all adults and understand that anyone is on their own in a car with this mileage, but part of economical motoring is driving cars as long as possible. Acuras, Hondas, Lexuses, Toyotas often go starship distances.
You are incorrect. This is what a UOA is for.
No engine anywhere throws this much bearing material and lives a long (er) life.
Especially a 4 cylinder.
Still amazed that there are so many here that don’t see this. There’s probably a lot of experienced guys that read these posts, smirk and laugh. They’re obviously smarter than me, and don’t bother to post…
No engine anywhere throws this much bearing material and lives a long (er) life.
Especially a 4 cylinder.
Still amazed that there are so many here that don’t see this. There’s probably a lot of experienced guys that read these posts, smirk and laugh. They’re obviously smarter than me, and don’t bother to post…
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