Originally Posted By: schuylkill
A friend of mine here at work couldn't get his car to start the other night. It would crank fine. Didn't smell anything so thought it wasn't getting fuel. Found info on the net about GM's Pass-lock anti-theft system and so hoping that the code had been lost but that the igniton lock was still good turned key to run for 10 minutes, turned off, waited 30 seconds and car started. It seems to me that the primary cause of this problem is a failing ignition lock. Is there an easy way to confirm this before getting a new one? I found uncommon to me units which include new keys such as: http://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Ignition-Cylinder-Passlock-Dash-Mounted/dp/B00C25GRI0/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Oldsmobile|51&Model=Alero|566&Year=2003|2003&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive#productDetails
and an AC Delco unit which doesn't include the key, you need to build it so your old key fits:
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D1493F-Ign...o+ignition+lock
Anyone with any experience with this? Thanks
Oy. This was the start of the quagmire that killed my 2004 Chevy Classic way before its time. I hope your friend "just" has a Passlock problem, which can be fixed-for-now by one of several solutions you can find online. In the be-prepared dept.: Please tell him/her to brace for the end of the Olds, unless they love frustration and wasting money.
A: If this is the first time the car refused to start, clean the ignition lock cylinder with contact cleaner, thoroughly. I use the paper stuff that comes in shoe boxes for this, when I can. Works great. Wipe down the key (s) with cleaner, too.
That might be enough to "solve" the Passlock problem for a year or so. No need to spend money on a new cylinder if it only happened once, and there are no other signs of trouble.
B: If you clean the cylinder and the car still refuses to start again in the next few months, replace the lock cylinder. Spend the extra $$$ to get a part with a good warranty; fair chance you will need it. (eBay surfing on price _not_ recommended here.)
C: If you replace the cylinder and the car still refuses to start---especially if it "gurgles" but the anti-theft light does 'not' flash---then dump the car immediately. Trying to fix it beyond that point is more trouble than it's worth. At some point, the Passlock problem leads to the fuel pump not "talking" to the computer, the electronics getting "totally boogered up," as my mechanic put it, (along with some comments I cannot repeat here)....and there is no way out.
D. If you don't believe that and still want to fix the problem even after a new lock cylinder fails to do so, then replace the fuel pump. That might buy you another year---but the problem will return at some point.
E. Do not under any circumstances replace the ECM, or whatever it's called on the Alero. Waste of money, if anything will make things worse---and dealers especially suggest it as a "fix" for the "demon child of Passlock" problem.
Good luck---and good for you that you figured out the 10-minute wait procedure to get the car to start. First time it happened to me, I forget about that---even though I had read it in the owner's manual when I first got the car.
As I said: I hope A or B solves your friend's problem for a year or two---but this has potential to be a real mess. Trust me. It's a shame GM put Passlock with its inevitable problems in solid affordable cars with the great 2.2 Ecotec. I could talk about this heap long time, but this post is already too long.
