2000 Toyota 4runner, 2.7L (3RZ-FE), 310,694 miles, Chevron Supreme 5w-30 synthetic blend

[Chip_Diamond]

My 4runner was still running strong, until 298,425 miles. It had been getting hot, randomly, for a month. (About 80% up on the gauge), and then cooling down. Come to find out, one of the hoses had a hole in it. I couldn't get off work to bring it to a mechanic, which probably did not help.

On the day of bringing it to the mechanic, it started overheating on me. I've never had a "hot car" before. Made so many mistakes that day. Instead of "limping" it over, blasting the heater, or other techniques...I "tried to make it", the last 5 minutes to the mechanic. Yea, I didn't make it. Hindsight is 20/20, and it was a painful lesson. At that point, the gauge was all the way hot, (for the first time ever). The car died on me, on the street. Some guys helped me push it to the side of the road.

Got the engine rebuilt. They replaced the cylinder head with a new one, apparently the block was fine, (these engines have an iron block). The shop put their own synthetic blend oil in it. I have done two oil changes since. Chevron Supreme 5w-30, synthetic blend, each time. (First one at 300,670 and second one at 305, 470).

This Blackstone Report seems pretty good? Nevertheless, it has a couple worrying comments. Please let me know what you think. Any comments are appreciated!

 

[CharBaby]

I think that a couple more short OCIs will clean up those higher PPM#s as there still seems to be traces of coolant in the engine oil.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

I think that a couple more short OCIs will clean up those higher PPM#s as there still seems to be traces of coolant in the engine oil.

Thanks for the tip.

Yes, that engine had been running on full hot, for 5+ minutes. It was a dramatic death. So basically, coolant may have gotten into places in the engine?

This may be "neither here nor there", but after the rebuild, the engine is way stronger. The torque especially. It is a manual, and pulls up hills in 5th gear, that used to be impossible, (had to drop into 4th).

 

[fantastic]

Understand, so long as we're all human, mistakes will be made. I would speculate that the coolant contamination is still present inside the engine & will wash out over changes. Just know that it is pretty difficult for sodium & potassium to be removed but not impossible. It will take some time though and is why it's still present. I've never seen BS write "SHORT" in the flashpoint before? Overall as expected & it looks good for it's experience.

 

[ka9mnx]

Looks good for a rebuilt.

 

[KEVINK0000]

Looks like this was perhaps a head replacement, not an actual full rebuild with pistons, bearings cam, lifters, etc. Is that the case? Either way i think a couple more short OCI will wash out remaining stuff with no issue.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

Understand, so long as we're all human, mistakes will be made. I would speculate that the coolant contamination is still present inside the engine & will wash out over changes. Just know that it is pretty difficult for sodium & potassium to be removed but not impossible. It will take some time though and is why it's still present. I've never seen BS write "SHORT" in the flashpoint before? Overall as expected & it looks good for it's experience.

Yes, definitely a mistake, smh. And now I know why, every car seems to have a Hot/Cold gauge, it must be important, lol! When I was talking to the mechanic later that day, he said "Never drive a hot car". Whoops. After owning several cars, that was my first, and dramatic experience with a hot engine.

Sounds good about the coolant hopefully washing out. Good to hear that the engine seems pretty healthy.

BS probably wrote "SHORT", because I tipped over the sample. Most of it spilled. There was still a small amount left in the tube. They were able to do most of the analysis, but there was not enough oil for the flashpoint, it seems.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

Looks like this was perhaps a head replacement, not an actual full rebuild with pistons, bearings cam, lifters, etc. Is that the case? Either way i think a couple more short OCI will wash out remaining stuff with no issue.

Yes, they did not do pistons, bearings, lifters, etc. Actually, I should confirm with them. The rebuild was a while ago, (May of 2024). He brought me back, and showed me the old parts. It was cool to see, I just remember seeing my timing chain in there, forgot the other stuff.

I've been doing ~5k oci's with this car. (Besides the short 2k change, when I first got the car back). Do you recommend shorter oci's the next couple rounds? Have been using Chevron Supreme 5w-30 synth blend. Last one, switched to Castrol GTX 10w-30. I like this oil more. It is more robust, and the engine just purrs with it.

 

[CharBaby]

I would say to do no more than 3Kmile OCI for the next few changes. And I think the oil(s) you’re using(Chevron & Castrol) are perfect for this. Even SuperTech or any decent store brand oil. Any good oils that you can get on the cheap will do.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

I would say to do no more than 3Kmile OCI for the next few changes. And I think the oil(s) you’re using(Chevron & Castrol) are perfect for this. Even SuperTech or any decent store brand oil. Any good oils that you can get on the cheap will do.

Thanks for the advice. Will shorten up the next few oci's. Probably with the $20 5-quart jugs, of Castrol GTX 10w-30 that I find at Walmart, love that stuff.

 

[AKhan87]

$20 5-quart jugs, of Castrol GTX 10w-30 that I find at Walmart, love that stuff.

are you referring to this Castrol GTX 10w30 - Conventional Motor Oil? This is $20.97 + tax on Walmart's website.

I would personally run the either Super Tech Synthetic Blend 5W-30 or Super Tech Synthetic Blend 10W-30 at 3k OCI and they are only $16.98 + tax for 3-4 oil changes and get a UOA to confirm the potassium levels have stabilized.

Once you confirm the potassium levels are no longer a concern, run Super Tech Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 at 5k OCI and it is only $19.98 + tax.

And if cost is not a concern, I would run a Euro oil.

Examples:
Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $23.22
Castrol Edge Euro Full Synthetic 0W-40 - $23.97 current rollback
Castrol Edge Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $23.97 current rollback
Mobil 1 Euro Full Synthetic 0W-40 - $24.97 current rollback
Mobil 1 Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $24.97 current rollback

The engine was overheated to an "extreme" level by driving it, instead of getting it towed to a shop.

Looks like this was perhaps a head replacement, not an actual full rebuild with pistons, bearings cam, lifters, etc. Is that the case? Either way i think a couple more short OCI will wash out remaining stuff with no issue.

Exactly, this is a head & head gasket replacement.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

are you referring to this Castrol GTX 10w30 - Conventional Motor Oil? This is $20.97 + tax on Walmart's website.

I would personally run the either Super Tech Synthetic Blend 5W-30 or Super Tech Synthetic Blend 10W-30 at 3k OCI and they are only $16.98 + tax for 3-4 oil changes and get a UOA to confirm the potassium levels have stabilized.

Once you confirm the potassium levels are no longer a concern, run Super Tech Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 at 5k OCI and it is only $19.98 + tax.

And if cost is not a concern, I would run a Euro oil.

Examples:
Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $23.22
Castrol Edge Euro Full Synthetic 0W-40 - $23.97 current rollback
Castrol Edge Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $23.97 current rollback
Mobil 1 Euro Full Synthetic 0W-40 - $24.97 current rollback
Mobil 1 Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $24.97 current rollback

The engine was overheated to an "extreme" level by driving it, instead of getting it towed to a shop.


Exactly, this is a head & head gasket replacement.

Hmmm, I am not very familiar with Super Tech. Will look into it. The only reason I would run Super Tech would be for saving a few dollars, for these next short oci's.

Castrol is thick for its grade, and does not burn easily, like many synthetics I've tried. (This engine in particular does not burn much oil). In this SUV, when I switched to Castrol GTX 10w-30, from Chevron Supreme 5w-30 synthetic blend, the moving parts became more quiet. Moreover, from previous oil changes with this car, GTX 10w-30 did not burn as much as the Chevron Supreme, 5w-30. At the end of the day, both are good oils, however the GTX is more robust. Although the Chevron Supreme could probably be run out to 6-7k oci's, (synthetic blend).

I do 5k oil changes with my cars, and prefer conventional. I also have an 04 G35, with the VQ35DE engine. That thing chews up synthetic oil, like cookie monster. It behaves with Castrol GTX 10w-30, also the manual specifically states to use conventional, not synthetic.

Would definitley not want to run a 40 weight oil with this car, too thick. Hmm, I have run Castrol Edge 10w-30, full synthetic, in this 4runner. That was an impressive oil. It did not burn much, the engine ran strong, and I drove it for 8k miles, no issues. Hell, that may be a good longterm candidate. The 5-quart jugs are only $3-4 more. (You can see my liking for Castrol, lol).

 

[AKhan87]

Hmmm, I am not very familiar with Super Tech.

where do you live? I can't tell from your profile, it is Walmart's private label brand (made by the same company that makes Kirkland and other private label motor oils) it is a good quality oil.

The only reason I would run Super Tech would be for saving a few dollars, for these next short oci's.

that's why I was suggesting it, unless you have a Rural king near you and you can buy the Providence motor oil from there for the next OCI as it is on sale right now.

Castrol is thick for its grade, and does not burn easily, like many synthetics I've tried. (This engine in particular does not burn much oil). In this SUV, when I switched to Castrol GTX 10w-30, from Chevron Supreme 5w-30 synthetic blend, the moving parts became more quiet. Moreover, from previous oil changes with this car, GTX 10w-30 did not burn as much as the Chevron Supreme, 5w-30. At the end of the day, both are good oils, however the GTX is more robust. Although the Chevron Supreme could probably be run out to 6-7k oci's, (synthetic blend).

I have rebuilt enough Toyota engine's to recommend against running anything but synthetic motor oils in Toyotas (their pistons run way too hot and carbon up the oil control rings, and even a little bit on the compression rings) I would run 3-4k OCI on a synthetic blend.

I do 5k oil changes with my cars, and prefer conventional.

why? it offers zero benefit over a synthetic blend or a motor oil labeled as full synthetic.

I also have an 04 G35, with the VQ35DE engine. That thing chews up synthetic oil, like cookie monster.

never heard of such a thing, I know those engines are hard on oil, I would use a Euro spec'd oil in that engine but the conventional being better then a full synthetic is a made up story full of anecdotal evidence.

conventional, not synthetic.

can you post a picture? never ever heard of such a recommendation in the original owner's manual.

Would definitley not want to run a 40 weight oil with this car, too thick.

says who? if you had VVT-i in your 3RZ-FE engine, I would understand you not wanting to change the oil weight, but in your non-VVT-i engine, using a 40 weight oil will make no discernable difference, in fact it will benefit your engine that was abused and overheated until it didn't want to go anymore.

Hmm, I have run Castrol Edge 10w-30, full synthetic, in this 4runner. That was an impressive oil. It did not burn much, the engine ran strong, and I drove it for 8k miles, no issues. Hell, that may be a good longterm candidate. The 5-quart jugs are only $3-4 more. (You can see my liking for Castrol, lol).

use any brand you like but in your engine, the best option would be a Euro spec'd oil since you don't know if everything is within OEM specifications as the bottom end was not rebuilt.

 

[kschachn]

where do you live? I can't tell from your profile, it is Walmart's private label brand (made by the same company that makes Kirkland and other private label motor oils) it is a good quality oil.


that's why I was suggesting it, unless you have a Rural king near you and you can buy the Providence motor oil from there for the next OCI as it is on sale right now.


I have rebuilt enough Toyota engine's to recommend against running anything but synthetic motor oils in Toyotas (their pistons run way too hot and carbon up the oil control rings, and even a little bit on the compression rings) I would run 3-4k OCI on a synthetic blend.


why? it offers zero benefit over a synthetic blend or a motor oil labeled as full synthetic.


never heard of such a thing, I know those engines are hard on oil, I would use a Euro spec'd oil in that engine but the conventional being better then a full synthetic is a made up story full of anecdotal evidence.


can you post a picture? never ever heard of such a recommendation in the original owner's manual.


says who? if you had VVT-i in your 3RZ-FE engine, I would understand you not wanting to change the oil weight, but in your non-VVT-i engine, using a 40 weight oil will make no discernable difference, in fact it will benefit your engine that was abused and overheated until it didn't want to go anymore.


use any brand you like but in your engine, the best option would be a Euro spec'd oil since you don't know if everything is within OEM specifications as the bottom end was not rebuilt.

Yeah, a lot of weird and factually unsubstantiated comments in his post.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

where do you live? I can't tell from your profile, it is Walmart's private label brand (made by the same company that makes Kirkland and other private label motor oils) it is a good quality oil.

Yes, I have seen Super Tech all over the Walmart aisles. Have not looked into it at all, (Super Tech UOA postings on this website, chemical properties, etc). True, since the Super Tech synthetic blend is cheap, that is definitely a good candidate for doing a few short oci's.

I live in the Southwest. Nice warm climate, for the most part. Good for a 10w-30 weight.

I have rebuilt enough Toyota engine's to recommend against running anything but synthetic motor oils in Toyotas (their pistons run way too hot and carbon up the oil control rings, and even a little bit on the compression rings) I would run 3-4k OCI on a synthetic blend.

Interesting. Have not heard of that before. What engines have you rebuilt? As you know, this engine, (the 3rz-fe), was built before the widespread use of synthetic oils.

why? it offers zero benefit over a synthetic blend or a motor oil labeled as full synthetic.

For one, GTX is cheaper, and holds fine for a 5k oci. I bought the car in 2011. It had 130k. I tried a variety of synthetic oils, (Amsoil, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, and Valvoline Advanced). The Amsoil ($$$), Valvoline, and Castrol Edge didn't burn very much. My personal view: it didn't drive very well with Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, there was valvetrain noise, moreover they both burned too much. This SUV drives strong with GTX, doesn't burn, doesn't make valvetrain noise, etc.

This 3rz-fe is NA, doesn't have a high compression ratio, doesn't get hot, etc. If the engine does not exceed the capabilities of the conventional oil, how does synthetic provide better protection?

can you post a picture? never ever heard of such a recommendation in the original owner's manual.

never heard of such a thing, I know those engines are hard on oil, I would use a Euro spec'd oil in that engine but the conventional being better then a full synthetic is a made up story full of anecdotal evidence.

Straight from the Infiniti manual. On the subject of the VQ35DE, it definitely burned more with synthetic.

says who? if you had VVT-i in your 3RZ-FE engine, I would understand you not wanting to change the oil weight, but in your non-VVT-i engine, using a 40 weight oil will make no discernable difference, in fact it will benefit your engine that was abused and overheated until it didn't want to go anymore.

That is from the Toyota manual, recommending 5w-30, or 10w-30, for the 3rz-fe. What would be the benefits of running a 40 weight, in my situation? I am assuming the engine will not rev as quickly, the mpg's will drop a bit, potentially stress the oil pump?

use any brand you like but in your engine, the best option would be a Euro spec'd oil since you don't know if everything is within OEM specifications as the bottom end was not rebuilt.

I see, what are the benefits of a Euro spec oil, versus something like Pennzoil Platinum, or Castrol Edge? Also, can you explain more about a Euro spec oil helping, given my situation? (With the bottom end of the engine).

I appreciate your responses, have learned some things so far.

 

[kschachn]

You have to understand that the synthetic oils being discussed in this thread are all majority or completely Group III, which is more or less identical in chemical structure to a “mineral” or conventional oil. It differs in viscosity index, saturation and level of contamination. Group III synthetics are better than a “conventional” or blend oils in every way.