1998 Honda V6 w/ M1-SS 5W30

[TooSlick]

I think that Mobil 1, 5w30 may be on the thin side, given the high speeds and oil temps common in Europe. I'd try an ACEA, A3/B4 rated synthetic like Mobil 1, 0w-40 or perhaps a 5w-40 from Castrol, ARAL or Lubromoly. If the lead doesn't come down, then your problem is engine related and not oil related.

A lead level of 43 ppm after 3000 miles is much too high ...for a properly functioning engine with 100k+ miles on it, you should be seeing < 15 ppm of Pb after 3000 miles. You will note that copper and tin are starting to show up - that's from the brass bearing shells below the lead babbit material.

The wear rates for all the other major metals is pretty low, so this seems to be an isolated problem.

Tooslick

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

Ouch... Yeah a thin oil with fairly low HTHS and minimum of barrier adds, like M1 is not up to the tasks of burning down the autobahn at WOT, in my opinion.
Like TooSlick said, try a 5w40 or 10w40 syn. Since you are in Europe and can get the good Castrol, I'd try that.
If it's still high with the thicker oil...I'd sell the car and get something else...

 

[satterfi]

Maybe he’s using Czechoslovakian gas. They still have leaded gas in some places.

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

How would you know? Can he send the gas for analysis...

 

[MolaKule]

I would opt for at least the M1 10W30, and as some have suggested, maybe the 0W40 or Delvac 1 5W40. You may have one bearing with a high spot or dimple on it, or some silicon has scratched one or more bearings. I also suspect the 5W30 maybe shearing to a 15 weight under that intense speed and load.


Sreaming down the Autobahn is not the same as the soccer mom putzing around in her 6-cyl van.

 

[millerl]

Thanks everyone!

Yes, I've owned the car since the odometer literally had "1" mile on it. Honest, it was 1! It's entire life it has run M1 5W30 at 5k oil changes. It's my wife's car, so unless I'm driving it on the Autobahn during vacation (way too fast...) then it's driven quite casually (she drives like a putz!)

Best I know, nothing unusual done with the motor. I have the transmission fluid and radiator fluid changed out about every 30K, so overheating isn't a factor.

The gas is all unleaded gas, so that's not a concern. In fact, it's equivalent to 90 octane in the states.

I've drained the M1 out and put in RL 5W30. I'll give that a try. I'm expecting the RL to hold up to RL's claim to behave more like a grade heavier than it actually is. If that helps but doesn't cure the problem, I may have them ship me some of their new 5W40 and see if that does any better.

Of course, while I desparately hope that it's a simple thing that changing oil brands will resolve, I'm getting that bad feeling that it's not the oil's fault. We shall see and I'll keep you all posted.

Many thanks for everyone's input!

 

[Bror Jace]

Best of luck!

Here's a dumb question: How hard is it to get Red Line Oil in Belgium ... or even Europe in general?

--- Bror Jace

 

[Bror Jace]

millerl, you've had this car since she was just a pup? Any hard use which might have 'hurt' the motor earlier in its life? C'mon, you can tell us.

Either way, I'd definitely switch to a 40 weight oil of some sort. At this point, you should be trying to make the best of a bad situation.

This car has had Mobil 1 all its life? Well, this doesn't say much for Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic if all its life the car was getting 'normal' useage.

But then again, I've thought that for a couple years now.

--- Bror Jace

 

[millerl]

Far easier than you might think...I just placed an order on 14 April. It arrived in my military APO the beginning of this week. The USPS mailing cost is a bit pricey, but hey, it's what I have to do in order to try this oil.

Should be a very interesting test...I don't exactly have much to lose.

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

Didn't know you could get Red Line easily...good choice!