1997 Lumina Lifter Rattling

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Hello All. What can I do to stop a lifter on my 1997 Lumina that is rattling when I start the car? It stops after around 5 minutes of starting. I just replaced my thermostat (not sure if that is relevant or not).

Thanks for any suggestions.

Kelly
 
I am a female and do not know much about cars. My dad listened to it and said that it was a lifter. I am just wondering if I should change the oil (he mentioned something about a special kind of oil I can get from Walmart that may help). The rattling stops after 5 minutes but if I try and drive before then it has a hard time accelerating. Thoughts?
 
You are welcome! What motor is it? 3.1 or 3.4? Those motors have along history of piston slap. Piston slap and a lifter ticking sound very similar. I am guessing it is piston slap based on the history of those motors.
 
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The engine says a 3100 SFI v6. It just seems weird that it started right after (3 days) the thermostat was changed. It is not overheating... would a piston slap be something that would have to be taken to a shop to be fixed? Thanks.

Kelly
 
the piston slap/knocking is being picked up by the knock sensor so the ecm thinks it's pinging. if the ecm thinks it's pinging/knocking it will reduce ignition timing thus the "lack of power" for the first few minutes until it goes away.

a lifter noise wont be harsh enough to trigger the knock sensor.

it's defiantly piston slap....you need a engine rebuild with the newer "updated" piston design from gm.

in my opinion...ignore it and keep driving or sell the car...dont waste you money on rebuilding that engine.
 
Yep, that is one of the motors known for piston slap. Its weird you only noticed it starting the other day. I think the only way to solve the piston slap is to replace the pistons, but I don't think that you would want to spend the money to do that on a 97 model year car.
 
I am sceptical about it being piston slap.If it were there isn't a whole lot you could do about it anyway short of a engine rebuild.Engines that do have piston slap can go many years with no ill effects and is really nothing to worry about at this point.

I would spend under $5 dollars for a qt of Marvel Mystery oil and substitute 1 qt of oil when you change the oil.It is very effective at freeing sticky lifters if that is what it is.IMO a small amount of money invested first before spending money on diagnostics is sensible.
 
My dad is in the oil business and said to get that oil too. Do I do it with a full tank of gas? I only have 500 miles on this current oil change. Think it would be worth getting it changed and putting that in??? And would someone like a quicklube put that in?
Thanks,

Kelly
 
No i wouldn't change it now but you can add half a bottle to the current fill without any issues,it will have some cleaning effect.16oz over will have no negative effect.
Next time you change the oil you can do the whole qt.
If you want to run it in the gas also follow the instructions on the bottle.You do not have to run it in the fuel for this issue only the oil.
 
Kelly, since you're new and may not be acquainted with the acronyms, MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil. In that engine you could probably just throw it in on top of the full sump without a problem. I don't think windage is an issue in the GM V6's.

You can also add it to the fuel, but in this scenario you're only concerned with the oil. It's a solvent that might clean up some deposits if you have a fouled lifter.

In my experience piston slap was more pronounced under load. Almost like a muted rod knock until warmed. While a lifter tap would be boldly apparent at idle and throughout the rpm range until it might be drowned out by other noises.

..but that's just my experience.

Now you may have a condition that mimics piston slap in it's onset and duration and it can have an origin in the fuel. It could also explain your rough running until warm up. It's called CCDI (combustion chamber deposit interference). It's from shorter trip usage and fuel residuals creating deposits that are relatively soft and bang around when they reach a certain level of accumulation.

Get a bottle of Amsoil PI, Gumout Regane COMPLETE, Techron Concentrate (all of them around $10+/-) and follow the directions in your fuel. This will eliminate that as one possible origin and is wise preventive maintenance on a 6month basis anyway. That is, it won't be wasted money even if it doesn't solve your problem..


Good luck.
 
Welcome to Bitog!


It sounds like a lifter to me. I agree with those recommending MMO in your crankcase oil. You might have to drain a 1/2 to a full quart from your crankcase before adding the MMO to avoid overfilling, unless your car is ready for an oil change. Good Luck.
 
Thank you. You do not think the red line fuel injector fluid would help? I saw that it could help with that sort of problem....

Kelly
 
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