1995 Taurus running thread
- Thread starter TechnoLoGs
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Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
This was the coolant flush today.
is set to private, LOL
[censored]
It's public now
Thanks dwcopple
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
This was the coolant flush today.
is set to private, LOL
[censored]
It's public now
Thanks dwcopple
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
1. If it was heat-related, then attempt to see if it will work immediately, to rule out HEAT.
RESULT: Letting it be reconnected for even as little as 3-5 minutes SOLVES the problem.
RESULT: "Recalculating." (Does not compute; makes no sense.)
You can't rule out heat in this manner because if the solenoid sticks and sets a code, putting the tranny into some form of limp mode, it won't "fix itself" until certain criteria are met (it tries the solenoid again). But you completely veto this process by resetting the ECM, as it then has no knowledge of issues with that solenoid until it encounters it(again). The fact that the problem is intermittent means that if it IS a sticking solenoid, and it only does it once and a while when the tranny is good and hot, it makes sense that just clearing the memory of the system will make it work properly until it experiences the issue again.
Quote:
Now, if Transmisison, determined to be AX4N after some unclarity, now crystal clear it is AX4N, you saw the photo...
If this thing is electronically controlled...
-- Then why does it work PERFECTLY -MOST- of the time?
--- How/why does disconnecting the battery make it WORK?
(fluid level overfull, underfull, and Spot-on, in this case AT the bottom of the crosshatch are,a where it shifts the best.. doe snot affect it...
(super-duper Royal Purple 1 qyart overfull made it feel good but shifts hung, due to overfull.. Did not fix problem..)
HE thinks it is the ECM or PCM now.
I have been told "Direct and Intermediate clutches failing." -- Oh, really, then why does reocnnecitng and disconnecting only the negative cable solve the issue?
The consensus here seems to be "solenoids." I tend to agree... How do I fix that??
See previous quote above.
Quote:
^^ Now, on that note.. eljef has said "Install tranny cooler and get fan to run all the time." There MAY be some kind of issue with my fan; I don't know. I know it DOES run, and car does NOT overheat; temp gauge possibly acting up, but engine is OK. So.. That makes me WANT to get a trans cooler on there, at same time as pan drop, and new FT130 filter I ordered. Would LOVE ot get SOlenoids changed..
Brings us to where we are.
Temp gauge acts more or less the same after flush, so.
You are all over it again, SLOW DOWN. He suggested a tranny cooler, so get a tranny cooler. Don't do anything else, don't do a pan drop, don't add "new tranny in a can", do ONE THING and see if that helps. Get a big freakin' trans cooler like I put on my Town Car and see if keeping the fluid cooler solves the issue:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Performance/Transmission-Cooler/_/N-25io
Get a good sized one and mount it IN FRONT of the rad. Bring the fluid up to the proper level after fitting the cooler. If the drop in trans temp causes the issue to cease, then you know that it wasn't the ECM/PCM, and that whatever the issue is, is DEFINITELY temperature related.
Also, if your trans has a cooler inside your rad, you'll want retain it so that the fluid runs through that first, as that aides in the fluid getting to operating temperature in winter months. Too cold of fluid is bad too.
OK! I just read, and will re-read this.
So, you are saying, that, the NEXT THING TO DO is to get a big-censored Tranny Cooler installed, get it mounted where the AC stuff is in front of the radiator, and see if that helps?
Quote:
You are all over it again, SLOW DOWN. He suggested a tranny cooler, so get a tranny cooler. Don't do anything else, don't do a pan drop, don't add "new tranny in a can", do ONE THING and see if that helps. Get a big freakin' trans cooler like I put on my Town Car and see if keeping the fluid cooler solves the issue:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Performance/Transmission-Cooler/_/N-25io
And you are saying do NOT have them do a pan drop when I go in for that??...
*edit: http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/tci/823200/image/4/
^^ Must go out and see if that thing in front of the radiator is NOT something for AC like I thought it was but is a this..
Maybe it, itself, is all stopped up...
And then add a second UNDER radiator...
Hmm.
Must go out and look at this.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
1. If it was heat-related, then attempt to see if it will work immediately, to rule out HEAT.
RESULT: Letting it be reconnected for even as little as 3-5 minutes SOLVES the problem.
RESULT: "Recalculating." (Does not compute; makes no sense.)
You can't rule out heat in this manner because if the solenoid sticks and sets a code, putting the tranny into some form of limp mode, it won't "fix itself" until certain criteria are met (it tries the solenoid again). But you completely veto this process by resetting the ECM, as it then has no knowledge of issues with that solenoid until it encounters it(again). The fact that the problem is intermittent means that if it IS a sticking solenoid, and it only does it once and a while when the tranny is good and hot, it makes sense that just clearing the memory of the system will make it work properly until it experiences the issue again.
Quote:
Now, if Transmisison, determined to be AX4N after some unclarity, now crystal clear it is AX4N, you saw the photo...
If this thing is electronically controlled...
-- Then why does it work PERFECTLY -MOST- of the time?
--- How/why does disconnecting the battery make it WORK?
(fluid level overfull, underfull, and Spot-on, in this case AT the bottom of the crosshatch are,a where it shifts the best.. doe snot affect it...
(super-duper Royal Purple 1 qyart overfull made it feel good but shifts hung, due to overfull.. Did not fix problem..)
HE thinks it is the ECM or PCM now.
I have been told "Direct and Intermediate clutches failing." -- Oh, really, then why does reocnnecitng and disconnecting only the negative cable solve the issue?
The consensus here seems to be "solenoids." I tend to agree... How do I fix that??
See previous quote above.
Quote:
^^ Now, on that note.. eljef has said "Install tranny cooler and get fan to run all the time." There MAY be some kind of issue with my fan; I don't know. I know it DOES run, and car does NOT overheat; temp gauge possibly acting up, but engine is OK. So.. That makes me WANT to get a trans cooler on there, at same time as pan drop, and new FT130 filter I ordered. Would LOVE ot get SOlenoids changed..
Brings us to where we are.
Temp gauge acts more or less the same after flush, so.
You are all over it again, SLOW DOWN. He suggested a tranny cooler, so get a tranny cooler. Don't do anything else, don't do a pan drop, don't add "new tranny in a can", do ONE THING and see if that helps. Get a big freakin' trans cooler like I put on my Town Car and see if keeping the fluid cooler solves the issue:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Performance/Transmission-Cooler/_/N-25io
Get a good sized one and mount it IN FRONT of the rad. Bring the fluid up to the proper level after fitting the cooler. If the drop in trans temp causes the issue to cease, then you know that it wasn't the ECM/PCM, and that whatever the issue is, is DEFINITELY temperature related.
Also, if your trans has a cooler inside your rad, you'll want retain it so that the fluid runs through that first, as that aides in the fluid getting to operating temperature in winter months. Too cold of fluid is bad too.
OK! I just read, and will re-read this.
So, you are saying, that, the NEXT THING TO DO is to get a big-censored Tranny Cooler installed, get it mounted where the AC stuff is in front of the radiator, and see if that helps?
Quote:
You are all over it again, SLOW DOWN. He suggested a tranny cooler, so get a tranny cooler. Don't do anything else, don't do a pan drop, don't add "new tranny in a can", do ONE THING and see if that helps. Get a big freakin' trans cooler like I put on my Town Car and see if keeping the fluid cooler solves the issue:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Performance/Transmission-Cooler/_/N-25io
And you are saying do NOT have them do a pan drop when I go in for that??...
*edit: http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/tci/823200/image/4/
^^ Must go out and see if that thing in front of the radiator is NOT something for AC like I thought it was but is a this..
Maybe it, itself, is all stopped up...
And then add a second UNDER radiator...
Hmm.
Must go out and look at this.
I know this is kind of a weird question for page 51 of this thread, but is your check engine light on? Does it work with the key on, engine off?
If no, does it kick on when your tranny troubles start?
I seem to recall seeing something orange and glowing in the lower right of one of your videos.
Coincidentally you can get codes out of your car (though probably not your tranny computer) with a $2 test light, instructions from google, and your wits.
If no, does it kick on when your tranny troubles start?
I seem to recall seeing something orange and glowing in the lower right of one of your videos.
Coincidentally you can get codes out of your car (though probably not your tranny computer) with a $2 test light, instructions from google, and your wits.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
OK! I just read, and will re-read this.
So, you are saying, that, the NEXT THING TO DO is to get a big-censored Tranny Cooler installed, get it mounted where the AC stuff is in front of the radiator, and see if that helps?
Yes, mount it in FRONT of the A/C stuff. There should be some lines coming off the tranny that probably go into the rad. Those are your "cooler" lines. Intercept the return line and run it through the big cooler you are fitting.
Quote:
And you are saying do NOT have them do a pan drop when I go in for that??...
*edit: http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/tci/823200/image/4/
^^ Must go out and see if that thing in front of the radiator is NOT something for AC like I thought it was but is a this..
Maybe it, itself, is all stopped up...
And then add a second UNDER radiator...
Hmm.
Must go out and look at this.
Yes, you've changed the fluid a pile of times now, no need to do a pan drop, just fit a cooler.
Take a picture of what you are talking about. the A/C condenser is aluminum, so it should be pretty obvious as it will have large aluminum lines going to it coming from the A/C compressor. This is normally directly in front of, and the same size as the rad.
OK! I just read, and will re-read this.
So, you are saying, that, the NEXT THING TO DO is to get a big-censored Tranny Cooler installed, get it mounted where the AC stuff is in front of the radiator, and see if that helps?
Yes, mount it in FRONT of the A/C stuff. There should be some lines coming off the tranny that probably go into the rad. Those are your "cooler" lines. Intercept the return line and run it through the big cooler you are fitting.
Quote:
And you are saying do NOT have them do a pan drop when I go in for that??...
*edit: http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/tci/823200/image/4/
^^ Must go out and see if that thing in front of the radiator is NOT something for AC like I thought it was but is a this..
Maybe it, itself, is all stopped up...
And then add a second UNDER radiator...
Hmm.
Must go out and look at this.
Yes, you've changed the fluid a pile of times now, no need to do a pan drop, just fit a cooler.
Take a picture of what you are talking about. the A/C condenser is aluminum, so it should be pretty obvious as it will have large aluminum lines going to it coming from the A/C compressor. This is normally directly in front of, and the same size as the rad.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I know this is kind of a weird question for page 51 of this thread,
Nothing too weird. Bring it on!
Quote:
but is your check engine light on? Does it work with the key on, engine off?
With key on and engine off, yes, the Check Engine light lights.
The Check Engine light has not come on one time since I owned this car.
I believe the engine to be strong.. it has taken some abuse. I am actually impressed with it. The truck's engine would have died by now..
Quote:
If no, does it kick on when your tranny troubles start?
It never "sets" a code/MIL. It doesn't.
We were both disappointed when we came to it with the Actron (which I have from a previous vehicle, and he has the same one) - and it was OBD1.
(So, those suggesting that some 1995MYs had OBDII.. Not this one.)
Quote:
I seem to recall seeing something orange and glowing in the lower right of one of your videos.
Air Bag light. "Clock Spring." I believe you that that is what that is.
No intention on getting into an accident to find out
Quote:
Coincidentally you can get codes out of your car (though probably not your tranny computer) with a $2 test light, instructions from google, and your wits.
On my Blazer, I can use a paperclip..
But, again, no codes!
And the Blazer had Code 43 - "Knock sensor.." New "Spade connector" put on, and re-wired.. Went away with the new engine, and a knock like you wouldn't believe.
I lost faith in OBD1 after that.
I know this is kind of a weird question for page 51 of this thread,
Nothing too weird. Bring it on!
Quote:
but is your check engine light on? Does it work with the key on, engine off?
With key on and engine off, yes, the Check Engine light lights.
The Check Engine light has not come on one time since I owned this car.
I believe the engine to be strong.. it has taken some abuse. I am actually impressed with it. The truck's engine would have died by now..
Quote:
If no, does it kick on when your tranny troubles start?
It never "sets" a code/MIL. It doesn't.
We were both disappointed when we came to it with the Actron (which I have from a previous vehicle, and he has the same one) - and it was OBD1.
(So, those suggesting that some 1995MYs had OBDII.. Not this one.)
Quote:
I seem to recall seeing something orange and glowing in the lower right of one of your videos.
Air Bag light. "Clock Spring." I believe you that that is what that is.
No intention on getting into an accident to find out
Quote:
Coincidentally you can get codes out of your car (though probably not your tranny computer) with a $2 test light, instructions from google, and your wits.
On my Blazer, I can use a paperclip..
But, again, no codes!
And the Blazer had Code 43 - "Knock sensor.." New "Spade connector" put on, and re-wired.. Went away with the new engine, and a knock like you wouldn't believe.
I lost faith in OBD1 after that.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Take a picture of what you are talking about. the A/C condenser is aluminum, so it should be pretty obvious as it will have large aluminum lines going to it coming from the A/C compressor. This is normally directly in front of, and the same size as the rad.
Firstly.. Silver Taurii are everywhere!
Nextly...
Then...
Looking down:
Trans dipstick color, car off and cool:
*It is at the very bottom of the crosshairs area.. Technically not IN the crosshairs but, wow, does it shift smoth with it at the level of very bottom of crosshairs.
My fill hole. I coul dget it clearer, if I really tried. Frustrated by heat outside.
Take a picture of what you are talking about. the A/C condenser is aluminum, so it should be pretty obvious as it will have large aluminum lines going to it coming from the A/C compressor. This is normally directly in front of, and the same size as the rad.
Firstly.. Silver Taurii are everywhere!
Nextly...
Then...
Looking down:
Trans dipstick color, car off and cool:
*It is at the very bottom of the crosshairs area.. Technically not IN the crosshairs but, wow, does it shift smoth with it at the level of very bottom of crosshairs.
My fill hole. I coul dget it clearer, if I really tried. Frustrated by heat outside.
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
This can't end well...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
Yeah, the rad cradle is close to non-existent
GHT: That looks like your power steering cooler. Trace the lines to confirm. It should be relatively obvious if there are lines coming from the transmission.
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
Yeah, the rad cradle is close to non-existent
GHT: That looks like your power steering cooler. Trace the lines to confirm. It should be relatively obvious if there are lines coming from the transmission.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
Yeah, the rad cradle is close to non-existent
GHT: That looks like your power steering cooler. Trace the lines to confirm. It should be relatively obvious if there are lines coming from the transmission.
So, I can (or the shop that does it) can still get a trans cooler up in there?
I know I hear a "rattle" when the car comes to a stop, most of the time. I can also tell you the foil heatshield is "just on there," so I think that is what it is.
And is it really true that warm not HOT nor cool fluid can help me? I do believe it.
See how new my ATF looks? The color?
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
Yeah, the rad cradle is close to non-existent
GHT: That looks like your power steering cooler. Trace the lines to confirm. It should be relatively obvious if there are lines coming from the transmission.
So, I can (or the shop that does it) can still get a trans cooler up in there?
I know I hear a "rattle" when the car comes to a stop, most of the time. I can also tell you the foil heatshield is "just on there," so I think that is what it is.
And is it really true that warm not HOT nor cool fluid can help me? I do believe it.
See how new my ATF looks? The color?
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
"Perforated"? What means?
You should see the Blazer's rockers.
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
"Perforated"? What means?
You should see the Blazer's rockers.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
"Perforated"? What means?
You should see the Blazer's rockers.
That cradle is your radiator core support and in a unibody car like yours it's a structural component.
That passed NJ inspection, would not pass PA inspection ?
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
"Perforated"? What means?
You should see the Blazer's rockers.
That cradle is your radiator core support and in a unibody car like yours it's a structural component.
That passed NJ inspection, would not pass PA inspection ?
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
"Perforated"? What means?
You should see the Blazer's rockers.
That cradle is your radiator core support and in a unibody car like yours it's a structural component.
That passed NJ inspection, would not pass PA inspection ?
Car's got inspection until December 2013.
Can metal get welded in? Are you SURE it wouldn't pass an inspection?
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
That rust is something. Even perforated in spots.
This can't end well...
"Perforated"? What means?
You should see the Blazer's rockers.
That cradle is your radiator core support and in a unibody car like yours it's a structural component.
That passed NJ inspection, would not pass PA inspection ?
Car's got inspection until December 2013.
Can metal get welded in? Are you SURE it wouldn't pass an inspection?
Originally Posted By: yonyon
That rust won't make you fail an NJ inspection unless you put commercial plates on it. There's no safety inspection for cars with regular plates anymore.
I stand corrected, had to look that up myself, looks like the just check emissions only
"Effective August 1 , 2010, the New J ersey M otor V ehicle Commission made changes
to the New Jersey Vehicle Inspection Program eliminating the mechanical defects
(safety) portion of the inspection process for passenger vehicles."
That rust won't make you fail an NJ inspection unless you put commercial plates on it. There's no safety inspection for cars with regular plates anymore.
I stand corrected, had to look that up myself, looks like the just check emissions only
"Effective August 1 , 2010, the New J ersey M otor V ehicle Commission made changes
to the New Jersey Vehicle Inspection Program eliminating the mechanical defects
(safety) portion of the inspection process for passenger vehicles."
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: yonyon
That rust won't make you fail an NJ inspection unless you put commercial plates on it. There's no safety inspection for cars with regular plates anymore.
I stand corrected, had to look that up myself, looks like the just check emissions only
"Effective August 1 , 2010, the New J ersey M otor V ehicle Commission made changes
to the New Jersey Vehicle Inspection Program eliminating the mechanical defects
(safety) portion of the inspection process for passenger vehicles."
Glad you see that it CAN get inspected. And has! I know you wanted car to be "uninspectable."
I am now getting excited about tranny coolers, as seems like next logical way to proceed.
Smiling that a challenge presented showed me to know my facts.
Originally Posted By: yonyon
That rust won't make you fail an NJ inspection unless you put commercial plates on it. There's no safety inspection for cars with regular plates anymore.
I stand corrected, had to look that up myself, looks like the just check emissions only
"Effective August 1 , 2010, the New J ersey M otor V ehicle Commission made changes
to the New Jersey Vehicle Inspection Program eliminating the mechanical defects
(safety) portion of the inspection process for passenger vehicles."
Glad you see that it CAN get inspected. And has! I know you wanted car to be "uninspectable."
I am now getting excited about tranny coolers, as seems like next logical way to proceed.
Smiling that a challenge presented showed me to know my facts.
And, actually, it has been inspected...
^^ If I had the money, I would consider a trans replacement. However, since this is an FWD car, and I know all the stuff that has to come out - it is a LOT, had a trans changed on a front wheel drive car once... - I want to try the cooler with this one.
Solenoids/fluid temp DOES seem to be the main thing here.
It will be super hard to hold off on pan drop/filter change, but yes, trans cooler first.
Shop will have to do it.. I got no tools.
Solenoids/fluid temp DOES seem to be the main thing here.
It will be super hard to hold off on pan drop/filter change, but yes, trans cooler first.
Shop will have to do it.. I got no tools.
I think you are best off having a shop do this just because it would take a long time and be very unpleasant to do on the ground in humid weather.
I think that the only tools you'd really need would be:
-a single edge razor blade < $1
-a small tubing cutter ~= $5
-a pan to catch the fluid that leaks out $? (a roll of foil will work in a pinch)
-a screwdriver that will work on fuel injection hose clamps < $10
...so to buy a cheap version of the bare minimum tools brand new would cost roughly the price of a roll of aluminum foil + $16 + the fuel to get to a store and buy them.
I think that the only tools you'd really need would be:
-a single edge razor blade < $1
-a small tubing cutter ~= $5
-a pan to catch the fluid that leaks out $? (a roll of foil will work in a pinch)
-a screwdriver that will work on fuel injection hose clamps < $10
...so to buy a cheap version of the bare minimum tools brand new would cost roughly the price of a roll of aluminum foil + $16 + the fuel to get to a store and buy them.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: yonyon
I think you are best off having a shop do this just because it would take a long time and be very unpleasant to do on the ground in humid weather.
I think that the only tools you'd really need would be:
-a single edge razor blade < $1
-a small tubing cutter ~= $5
-a pan to catch the fluid that leaks out $? (a roll of foil will work in a pinch)
-a screwdriver that will work on fuel injection hose clamps < $10
...so to buy a cheap version of the bare minimum tools brand new would cost roughly the price of a roll of aluminum foil + $16 + the fuel to get to a store and buy them.
Is the razorblade to scrape old gasket material?
I think you are best off having a shop do this just because it would take a long time and be very unpleasant to do on the ground in humid weather.
I think that the only tools you'd really need would be:
-a single edge razor blade < $1
-a small tubing cutter ~= $5
-a pan to catch the fluid that leaks out $? (a roll of foil will work in a pinch)
-a screwdriver that will work on fuel injection hose clamps < $10
...so to buy a cheap version of the bare minimum tools brand new would cost roughly the price of a roll of aluminum foil + $16 + the fuel to get to a store and buy them.
Is the razorblade to scrape old gasket material?
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