1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: dishdude
It's running extremely rich. Nothing you add to the tank is going to fix that! Something was left disconnected, or the ECU is not the correct one for the engine.

What you smell is unburnt fuel - the high HC level that caused it to fail. That exhaust is going to kill your brain cells!


Start with new 02 sensor, leave CAT alone for now, yes?

Also, guy sold exhaust last night so its no longer available
frown.gif



NO! Don't throw parts at it! Very expensive and your odds are better at putting that money towards winning Powerball tickets than random parts fixing this.

Compression check. Make sure all sensors and everything else is connected. Check for codes. Confirm engine is correct - perhaps the throttle body is different than the original? Is it misfiring?
 
Please stop with the easy fixes. NONE of them have worked. ITU didn't worked, nail polish remover (which isn't pure acetone...and contains other things that could harm your engine)....the one thing, the ONLY thing, that they accomplished was to drain your wallet. Each time you do this, the only certainty is that you will have less money at the end of your experiment. Not once have you had a better running car as the result of the money you've spent.

Let me go out on a limb here: YOU WILL NOT FIX THIS CAR BY POURING ANYTHING INTO ANY PART OF IT. You will only fix it through knowledgeable diagnosis and repair. You are on exactly the same path as you were with the Volvo - wasting $$ on frivolities and pointless efforts while leaving real mechanical repairs undone. You saw how that experience ended, what makes you so eager to repeat the experience???

Go back to basics, E.G. 1. check compression. 2. Check plugs (running rich, all cylinders firing). 3. Get exhaust fixed. 4. Check for vacuum leaks. 5. Find source of knocking noise.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Please stop with the easy fixes. NONE of them have worked. ITU didn't worked, nail polish remover (which isn't pure acetone...and contains other things that could harm your engine)....the one thing, the ONLY thing, that they accomplished was to drain your wallet. Each time you do this, the only certainty is that you will have less money at the end of your experiment. Not once have you had a better running car as the result of the money you've spent.

Let me go out on a limb here: YOU WILL NOT FIX THIS CAR BY POURING ANYTHING INTO ANY PART OF IT. You will only fix it through knowledgeable diagnosis and repair. You are on exactly the same path as you were with the Volvo - wasting $$ on frivolities and pointless efforts while leaving real mechanical repairs undone. You saw how that experience ended, what makes you so eager to repeat the experience???

Go back to basics, E.G. 1. check compression. 2. Check plugs (running rich, all cylinders firing). 3. Get exhaust fixed. 4. Check for vacuum leaks. 5. Find source of knocking noise.


Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: dishdude
It's running extremely rich. Nothing you add to the tank is going to fix that! Something was left disconnected, or the ECU is not the correct one for the engine.

What you smell is unburnt fuel - the high HC level that caused it to fail. That exhaust is going to kill your brain cells!


Start with new 02 sensor, leave CAT alone for now, yes?

Also, guy sold exhaust last night so its no longer available
frown.gif



NO! Don't throw parts at it! Very expensive and your odds are better at putting that money towards winning Powerball tickets than random parts fixing this.

Compression check. Make sure all sensors and everything else is connected. Check for codes. Confirm engine is correct - perhaps the throttle body is different than the original? Is it misfiring?


It really runs better with 93 octane fuel in it...................

More power
less knocking (yes!)
engine is quieter.
.

Could I be on to something here?

Added $20 of BP 93 octane today to 1/3 full tank, and 1oz. Redline SI-1. Run great.. NO LIGHT CAME ON AFTER I DID THIS AT ANY TIME....

I used to run only no-name 87.

Am I onto something?

And no, I did not yet change anything!






Quote:
Confirm engine is correct - perhaps the throttle body is different than the original? Is it misfiring?


I need a run-down of all the differences from MY1993 to MY1994, as this is a 1994 engine in a 1993.

I say again, all of the problems seemed virtually non-existent, if not non-existent, on its ride home tonight. What I did differently today was add in 93 octane name brand gas. aND 1OZ rEDLINE si-1.


I also noticed that the engine did not sound as if it wanted to diesel (some call it run-on?) when I shut it off. Several times, when light came on, when I shut the key down, the engine seemed to have an extra "shake" or half-fire.. Even now, just now, it did no tdo that. It shut and stayed shut!

I am not hallucinating about the lack of wanting to diesel OR that the light (Service Engine Soon) did not come on AT ALL, NO NOT ONE TIME after adding the premium gas, no matter how much exhaust may/may not have come in. And my sense of smell is suspect so I cant comment on that but 93 made it run good.................

Could the knocking have been gas-related? I never really put premium in it before.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I need a run-down of all the differences from MY1993 to MY1994, as this is a 1994 engine in a 1993.


That's new info

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Something was left disconnected, or the ECU is not the correct one for the engine.


^^^ THIS !!!!!

Would start with the ECM, from a cursory review it looks like there is a difference between 93 & 94
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Wait...that it runs better with premium makes me wonder if the EGR is dorked up.


Ohhh the difference is a clear one.

I kept thinking Premium was a waste.

Well, on a lark, I put $20 of BP 93 in on 1/3 tank and...

It is as if it isnt broken at all...

I feel I should keep running premium if difference is that drastic?
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Wait...that it runs better with premium makes me wonder if the EGR is dorked up.


Ohhh the difference is a clear one.

I kept thinking Premium was a waste.

Well, on a lark, I put $20 of BP 93 in on 1/3 tank and...

It is as if it isnt broken at all...

I feel I should keep running premium if difference is that drastic?


No, you should fix the problem.
smirk.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Wait...that it runs better with premium makes me wonder if the EGR is dorked up.


Ohhh the difference is a clear one.

I kept thinking Premium was a waste.

Well, on a lark, I put $20 of BP 93 in on 1/3 tank and...

It is as if it isnt broken at all...

I feel I should keep running premium if difference is that drastic?


No, you should fix the problem.
smirk.gif



So we have narrowed the problem of running rich, at least at idle.

Reading through the above, I should NOT change an 02 sensor?
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Is starting up fast an indication of good compression?


Just the opposite...quick cranking often means poor compression (easier to turn over)...but you're speculating again. Get a compression gauge on that engine to see if it's even worth spending any more time on it...

Further, this engine was designed to run on regular. If premium improves how it runs, there is something mechanically wrong with it...pouring stuff into it won't fix those problems, you have to find them and fix them.
 
Last edited:
When you get a camera, you should video record some of your everyday hi-jinx and start a YouTube channel like DavidsFarm.
 
Originally Posted By: silverrat
When you get a camera, you should video record some of your everyday hi-jinx and start a YouTube channel like DavidsFarm.


Thinking it would be a a significantly less technically proficient and humorless version of The Red Green Show.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


12.95V and climbing when I had the multimeter on it before hooking it up. I also reconnected my Power Pulse desulfator; with it on, battery voltage ultimately goes to about 12.4V.

As to dried-out cell.. Unsure. I will watch its behavior! And the CTEK DOES desulfate...



huh? 12.95 an climbing when turned off? Nope, not right. The battery may have a surface charge but the chemistry isnt going to allow 12.95V at rest.

Pulse desulfator voltage of 12.4V is too low too. The best way to prevent sulfation is to stay at full charge (12.72V or so), or under float (13.4V or so), anything less than full charge will sulfate.

So your engine is from a 94? That's the newer body style, no? Lots of things changed. Yes, Id definitely make sure that all external parts are the same as OE.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


12.95V and climbing when I had the multimeter on it before hooking it up. I also reconnected my Power Pulse desulfator; with it on, battery voltage ultimately goes to about 12.4V.

As to dried-out cell.. Unsure. I will watch its behavior! And the CTEK DOES desulfate...



huh? 12.95 an climbing when turned off? Nope, not right. The battery may have a surface charge but the chemistry isnt going to allow 12.95V at rest.

Pulse desulfator voltage of 12.4V is too low too. The best way to prevent sulfation is to stay at full charge (12.72V or so), or under float (13.4V or so), anything less than full charge will sulfate.

So your engine is from a 94? That's the newer body style, no? Lots of things changed. Yes, Id definitely make sure that all external parts are the same as OE.


I did a lot of research (or as much as I could, including on here) and I came to the following sets of information:

1. The 1992 and 1993 engines on S-10 Blazer/S-15 GMC were the same 4.3.
2. Then, in another "set" and overlap, the 1994 S-10/1995 S-15 were the same. (Astro, etc, other S10 vehicles or even non-S10 vehicles with a 4.3. Junkyard Interchange sheets helped confirm this.)
3. The 1994 was all that was available, aside from a good low-mileage 1995 Astro unit. for same price.
4. Mechanic is now "making changes in his life" and did no twant to put in 1995 engine. "Too much swapping," he said.
5. None of these engines were heard to run.
6. The engine cost $300.
7. The truck was thrown back together, and runs, pulls, drives strong.
8. The truck feels SO improved on 93 I think something has happened. And I have been cleaning out carbon (Yes, I did the water trick. Yes, I have put fuel cleaner in EVERY tank of gas. yes, I put MMO in the oil. Yes, the oil pan was cleaned with gasoline, then put back on, no further checks. Etc etc etc etc...) that I think this is plausible. I could be wrong.
9. The 1995 S-Blazer was the first year of the body style that looked like this.
DSCN4100.jpg

The 1994 and below Blazer looked like this. (Cosmetic difference is a 1994 has a 3rd brake light where 1993 does not)
Drew_94ChevS10_3RR.jpg


THE 1994 and 1995 ENGINES show up as THE SAME in Interchanges. This means that 1995 was a carry-over year mechanically, with OBD1 and mechanicals of a 1994. It still is a different engine than a 1993 somehow, unsure the specifics. it was made to work and the engine may have come out of a 2WD vehicle as we had to change pans. I saw the digital dash and assumed 4WD. I don't know. It was all they had and they said "parts were going fast" and "they used to use it until someone bought the axle." $300. It was put together so fast that any possibility of noise outside the motor is just as likely as noise inside of it.

10. Call this "piling on" if you will, but the knocking noise seems to be going away.
^^ I am going to have to video this with my S3 once I get new service on it. I ditched T-Mobile and the phone is paid for so I can take it somewhere else.

ANY chance the 93 octane WAS needed, and that all my times putting in low octane caused the "knock" ? (Who knows the history of htis engine. Could be sludged up so bad. The oil is darkening after 1000+ miles but maybe some cleaning is happening, and stuck something is freeing up, thanks to MMO help.. I put in 12 ounces..)

I heard it. it sounds stronger, less knocky (I did not hear it this AM,) and no dieseling want to when it shuts off (it does not want to run-on.)

We are going to take the car there (back to inspection today after I run it for about an hour plus, not turning it off or anything to see if that will help it.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Is starting up fast an indication of good compression?


Just the opposite...quick cranking often means poor compression (easier to turn over)...but you're speculating again. Get a compression gauge on that engine to see if it's even worth spending any more time on it...

Further, this engine was designed to run on regular. If premium improves how it runs, there is something mechanically wrong with it...pouring stuff into it won't fix those problems, you have to find them and fix them.


If it's running better on premium, then there is likely higher compression in the cylinders, probably from carbon buildup. OR exposed edges from damage to valves and pistons. More likely carbon buildup.

Needs de-carbonizing treatment, such as induction cleaning, seafoam, steam, etc.. do everything you can to get the carbon out.

then you can start wondering how it got there...
 
One more post and then I'm going to stay out of this thread

You should do (2) things today.

1) Try to get the VIN number from the 94 truck your donor engine came from and lookup the ECM part number. If you can't get this your going to have to just see what units were used in 94 (I found several versions)

2) Lookup the ECM for your 93 Blazer, again several versions, need to do this by VIN

3) Find a shop that specializes in Engine diagnostics. You want them to do a full engine test (this will include compression)

You are fortunate to have near you a Keystone AAA operated facility that doesn't do repairs, only diagnostics (unbiased, honest assessment)

Address
3055 W Chester Pike
Broomall, PA 19008
610-353-7900
 
You don't get knock at idle from fuel quality. You only need about 75 octane to idle.
 
I can't recall, but does this thing have a distributor or 3 coil packs? If it has a distributor, it sounds like either your base timing is wrong or the advance isn't working correctly. The higher octane fuel would help somewhat with the detonation, which was probably the knocking you've been hearing.
 
Bah, it failed again. Just by a factor of two on high idle, no ta factor of four.

IDLE: Measured 735 (previous 780) -- has to be under 220
High Idle -- Measured 535 (previous 7-something) -- has to be under 220

.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Bah, it failed again. Just by a factor of two on high idle, no ta factor of four.

IDLE: Measured 735 (previous 780) -- has to be under 220
High Idle -- Measured 535 (previous 7-something) -- has to be under 220

.


So what additives haven't you used yet?
 
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