Thanks Clive, did you buy or just cut some shims out of shim stock? What thickness increments did you use? I can lathe one here.
1991 Chevy Caprice Differential
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I really pulled an idiot trip when I did my seal. I installed a Chevy SSR driveshaft at the same time to quell the well known driveshaft vibration with higher numerical gears (I have factory 3.27 gears as a part of the V92 toe package ) and changed my yoke to a 1350 yoke to be able to use the shaft, as I didn't want a conversion U-joint. So I ended up doing all sort of goofy measurements of the old yoke and the new to figure out where the nut needed to be, and somehow it all worked out. Didn't deserve for any of it to work, but it did.
If I were in your position, I would have a competent shop bust the whole thing open, and toss in a set of 3.73's, proper reluctor set, and a good limited slip. But that's just me. To paraphrase current youth, that setup would have your car "woke as ****".
If I were in your position, I would have a competent shop bust the whole thing open, and toss in a set of 3.73's, proper reluctor set, and a good limited slip. But that's just me. To paraphrase current youth, that setup would have your car "woke as ****".
Originally Posted by Trav
Thanks Clive, did you buy or just cut some shims out of shim stock? What thickness increments did you use? I can lathe one here.
For the Corporate 9.5" set-up's......I parted the spacer a little long then snuck-up on my preload a little at a time & didn't use shims, Not the most efficient thing having to indicate the part on the lathe every time I needed to face some off.
I have 1000's of differential shims that I've collected over the years, But couldn't find anything that fit this application very well. With all the 6.2L trucks out there now.....I'm sure someone will make a kit soon.
I'm terrible about recording the shim thicknesses I use on diff builds, With all the tolerance variations I seem to run across.....I'm not sure what good it would do? I have Timken & Koyo check/set-up bearings for that reason., If I'm using Koyo bearings, I use Koyo check bearings.
Thanks Clive, did you buy or just cut some shims out of shim stock? What thickness increments did you use? I can lathe one here.
For the Corporate 9.5" set-up's......I parted the spacer a little long then snuck-up on my preload a little at a time & didn't use shims, Not the most efficient thing having to indicate the part on the lathe every time I needed to face some off.
I have 1000's of differential shims that I've collected over the years, But couldn't find anything that fit this application very well. With all the 6.2L trucks out there now.....I'm sure someone will make a kit soon.
I'm terrible about recording the shim thicknesses I use on diff builds, With all the tolerance variations I seem to run across.....I'm not sure what good it would do? I have Timken & Koyo check/set-up bearings for that reason., If I'm using Koyo bearings, I use Koyo check bearings.
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
I really pulled an idiot trip when I did my seal. I installed a Chevy SSR driveshaft at the same time to quell the well known driveshaft vibration with higher numerical gears (I have factory 3.27 gears as a part of the V92 toe package ) and changed my yoke to a 1350 yoke to be able to use the shaft, as I didn't want a conversion U-joint. So I ended up doing all sort of goofy measurements of the old yoke and the new to figure out where the nut needed to be, and somehow it all worked out. Didn't deserve for any of it to work, but it did.
If I were in your position, I would have a competent shop bust the whole thing open, and toss in a set of 3.73's, proper reluctor set, and a good limited slip. But that's just me. To paraphrase current youth, that setup would have your car "woke as ****".
I REALLY dislike the pinion mounted reluctor that GM used on their B/D bodies.......[censored], It makes no sense when trucks used a "Replicated TOS" output from the PCM for the 3rd wheel speed channel making it a "Tune & Go" operation.
I really pulled an idiot trip when I did my seal. I installed a Chevy SSR driveshaft at the same time to quell the well known driveshaft vibration with higher numerical gears (I have factory 3.27 gears as a part of the V92 toe package ) and changed my yoke to a 1350 yoke to be able to use the shaft, as I didn't want a conversion U-joint. So I ended up doing all sort of goofy measurements of the old yoke and the new to figure out where the nut needed to be, and somehow it all worked out. Didn't deserve for any of it to work, but it did.
If I were in your position, I would have a competent shop bust the whole thing open, and toss in a set of 3.73's, proper reluctor set, and a good limited slip. But that's just me. To paraphrase current youth, that setup would have your car "woke as ****".
I REALLY dislike the pinion mounted reluctor that GM used on their B/D bodies.......[censored], It makes no sense when trucks used a "Replicated TOS" output from the PCM for the 3rd wheel speed channel making it a "Tune & Go" operation.
I dislike it too, but I had no real choice but to use what was there. It's just so stupid. When I did the tires on my truck, all I had to do was plug up the tuner, enter axle ratio, tire OD, and go. Easy and simple.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by Trav
Thanks Clive, did you buy or just cut some shims out of shim stock? What thickness increments did you use? I can lathe one here.
For the Corporate 9.5" set-up's......I parted the spacer a little long then snuck-up on my preload a little at a time & didn't use shims, Not the most efficient thing having to indicate the part on the lathe every time I needed to face some off.
I have 1000's of differential shims that I've collected over the years, But couldn't find anything that fit this application very well. With all the 6.2L trucks out there now.....I'm sure someone will make a kit soon.
I'm terrible about recording the shim thicknesses I use on diff builds, With all the tolerance variations I seem to run across.....I'm not sure what good it would do? I have Timken & Koyo check/set-up bearings for that reason., If I'm using Koyo bearings, I use Koyo check bearings.
Maybe I phrased it wrong, for German RWD cars I have plenty of shims and check bearings (INA and SKF) but find I use mostly 5 or 6 different thicknesses. I don't do many US RWD stuff, I think the last one was a GM 12 bolt many years ago so If I make a spacer I will have to buy them, I was just wondering what the most common ones are that you use.
Originally Posted by Trav
Thanks Clive, did you buy or just cut some shims out of shim stock? What thickness increments did you use? I can lathe one here.
For the Corporate 9.5" set-up's......I parted the spacer a little long then snuck-up on my preload a little at a time & didn't use shims, Not the most efficient thing having to indicate the part on the lathe every time I needed to face some off.
I have 1000's of differential shims that I've collected over the years, But couldn't find anything that fit this application very well. With all the 6.2L trucks out there now.....I'm sure someone will make a kit soon.
I'm terrible about recording the shim thicknesses I use on diff builds, With all the tolerance variations I seem to run across.....I'm not sure what good it would do? I have Timken & Koyo check/set-up bearings for that reason., If I'm using Koyo bearings, I use Koyo check bearings.
Maybe I phrased it wrong, for German RWD cars I have plenty of shims and check bearings (INA and SKF) but find I use mostly 5 or 6 different thicknesses. I don't do many US RWD stuff, I think the last one was a GM 12 bolt many years ago so If I make a spacer I will have to buy them, I was just wondering what the most common ones are that you use.
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
You will have to have a 100 inch pound torque wrench beam or dial, not electronic unless has continuous readout. And some way to adapt to the pinion nut. Then you take off the driveshaft, wheels, tires and brake drums or lift rear calipers out of the way. No extra drag.
Then you adjust for a rotating torque of 10 to 25 in lbs . If nothing was damaged it should become quiet.
If not then that rear end should be plentiful in the wrecking yards. or prepare to replace crush sleeve after checking the bearings.
Rod
That was what I was needing to know . Someone had told me several months ago , but could not remember or find the info .
Thanks ,
You will have to have a 100 inch pound torque wrench beam or dial, not electronic unless has continuous readout. And some way to adapt to the pinion nut. Then you take off the driveshaft, wheels, tires and brake drums or lift rear calipers out of the way. No extra drag.
Then you adjust for a rotating torque of 10 to 25 in lbs . If nothing was damaged it should become quiet.
If not then that rear end should be plentiful in the wrecking yards. or prepare to replace crush sleeve after checking the bearings.
Rod
That was what I was needing to know . Someone had told me several months ago , but could not remember or find the info .
Thanks ,
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
I really pulled an idiot trip when I did my seal. I installed a Chevy SSR driveshaft at the same time to quell the well known driveshaft vibration with higher numerical gears (I have factory 3.27 gears as a part of the V92 toe package ) and changed my yoke to a 1350 yoke to be able to use the shaft, as I didn't want a conversion U-joint. So I ended up doing all sort of goofy measurements of the old yoke and the new to figure out where the nut needed to be, and somehow it all worked out. Didn't deserve for any of it to work, but it did.
If I were in your position, I would have a competent shop bust the whole thing open, and toss in a set of 3.73's, proper reluctor set, and a good limited slip. But that's just me. To paraphrase current youth, that setup would have your car "woke as ****".
First , the 1991 Caprice has ~ 46,000 actual miles , not a matter of wear .
Second , it has the stock 5.0l engine , why would it need racing parts ?
Third , I am an old man & drive like an old man . Why would it need racing parts ?
I really pulled an idiot trip when I did my seal. I installed a Chevy SSR driveshaft at the same time to quell the well known driveshaft vibration with higher numerical gears (I have factory 3.27 gears as a part of the V92 toe package ) and changed my yoke to a 1350 yoke to be able to use the shaft, as I didn't want a conversion U-joint. So I ended up doing all sort of goofy measurements of the old yoke and the new to figure out where the nut needed to be, and somehow it all worked out. Didn't deserve for any of it to work, but it did.
If I were in your position, I would have a competent shop bust the whole thing open, and toss in a set of 3.73's, proper reluctor set, and a good limited slip. But that's just me. To paraphrase current youth, that setup would have your car "woke as ****".
First , the 1991 Caprice has ~ 46,000 actual miles , not a matter of wear .
Second , it has the stock 5.0l engine , why would it need racing parts ?
Third , I am an old man & drive like an old man . Why would it need racing parts ?
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