hello all. just wondering if anyone here could find out the correct timing for my ford fairmont. its a 1981 3.3L 6 cyl. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
1981 ford timing
- Thread starter Jakegday
- Start date
- Status
I think I had the same engine in my 1983 Ford LTD.
I had to adjust the timing every 6 months depending on the type of gas (summer or winter). I couldn't tell you what exactly it is. It died due to a blown head gasket in 2003 and I sold it to a local mechanic for $100.
I walked back and forth to college for a year before I bought another car.
I'd say fill it up and test it out. Adjust the timing, test it some more. Experience different adjustments.
Although forwarding the engine as much as you can and filling it up with high octane fuel is fun, I can't imagine it is good for the engine.
Retarding it back all the way will cause a real rough idle, although it will run.
I had to adjust the timing every 6 months depending on the type of gas (summer or winter). I couldn't tell you what exactly it is. It died due to a blown head gasket in 2003 and I sold it to a local mechanic for $100.
I walked back and forth to college for a year before I bought another car.
I'd say fill it up and test it out. Adjust the timing, test it some more. Experience different adjustments.
Although forwarding the engine as much as you can and filling it up with high octane fuel is fun, I can't imagine it is good for the engine.
Retarding it back all the way will cause a real rough idle, although it will run.
Should be 10* BTDC in Drive, @ around 900RPM.
Is the underhood emissions decal still present? There may be some procedures you need to follow and those will be outlined on the decal. Basically, disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor advance and you should be all set.
Is the underhood emissions decal still present? There may be some procedures you need to follow and those will be outlined on the decal. Basically, disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor advance and you should be all set.
ok, i found this in my haynes manual. where it points to ATDC, is that what im looking for? so in my case it would be 6?
No. That is just an illustration, not a spec.
Most FoMoCo vehicles with electronic ignition use 10 BTDC as standard timing.
Most FoMoCo vehicles with electronic ignition use 10 BTDC as standard timing.
Last edited:
i advanced it last year to fix this problem it was having, where you had to crank it for literally 10-20 seconds before it would fire up. well that idea actually worked, but now im actually thinking it needs to be retarded from where is sitting right now because whenever i go to shut the engine off, it continues to sputter for the next 5-10 seconds. this sputtering thing just started a couple months ago
Last edited:
Check for the proper timing procedure, IIRC there is something else other than a vacuum line, [like a spout connector or ?? that also needs to be removed to time them]. It's been a lot of years since I fooled with one of those engines.
Those carburators SUCKED! They had a plastic cap that wouldn't allow proper air fuel adjustment, which would cause engine run on and pinging in some of them as they got older. The EPA wanted that plug to stay on, many people removed it and set the air fuel up properly and got them to run better.
You could also have carbon in the compustion chamber which is causing the sputtering when you turn the engine off. You can try introducing water into the combustion chamber via a vacuum line to get rid of the carbon. It isn't hard to do, and has been discussed here, read up on it, or if you're interested one of us can spell it out for you. HTH
Those carburators SUCKED! They had a plastic cap that wouldn't allow proper air fuel adjustment, which would cause engine run on and pinging in some of them as they got older. The EPA wanted that plug to stay on, many people removed it and set the air fuel up properly and got them to run better.
You could also have carbon in the compustion chamber which is causing the sputtering when you turn the engine off. You can try introducing water into the combustion chamber via a vacuum line to get rid of the carbon. It isn't hard to do, and has been discussed here, read up on it, or if you're interested one of us can spell it out for you. HTH
Originally Posted By: expat
Gas has changed since 81, so has your engines condition.
Advance the ignition until you have Ping, then retard it a little
This would be optimal for the gas you are using.
Too much retard may cause exhaust valves to burn.
Sure will! I had that happen when my friends played a joke on me one time. I had a 71 Ford Maverick (long time ago) and it had the outside hood latch, so any shmo could open the hood. Anyway, they retard my timing real bad,and it burned (actually melted)one of my exhaust valves! Didnt figure out what they did until it was too late.
Gas has changed since 81, so has your engines condition.
Advance the ignition until you have Ping, then retard it a little
This would be optimal for the gas you are using.
Too much retard may cause exhaust valves to burn.
Sure will! I had that happen when my friends played a joke on me one time. I had a 71 Ford Maverick (long time ago) and it had the outside hood latch, so any shmo could open the hood. Anyway, they retard my timing real bad,and it burned (actually melted)one of my exhaust valves! Didnt figure out what they did until it was too late.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: expat
Gas has changed since 81, so has your engines condition.
Advance the ignition until you have Ping, then retard it a little
This would be optimal for the gas you are using.
Too much retard may cause exhaust valves to burn.
Sure will! I had that happen when my friends played a joke on me one time. I had a 71 Ford Maverick (long time ago) and it had the outside hood latch, so any shmo could open the hood. Anyway, they retard my timing real bad,and it burned (actually melted)one of my exhaust valves! Didnt figure out what they did until it was too late.
LOL I saw a piston with a hole in it from an I6 Ford that was timed wrong.
Originally Posted By: expat
Gas has changed since 81, so has your engines condition.
Advance the ignition until you have Ping, then retard it a little
This would be optimal for the gas you are using.
Too much retard may cause exhaust valves to burn.
Sure will! I had that happen when my friends played a joke on me one time. I had a 71 Ford Maverick (long time ago) and it had the outside hood latch, so any shmo could open the hood. Anyway, they retard my timing real bad,and it burned (actually melted)one of my exhaust valves! Didnt figure out what they did until it was too late.
LOL I saw a piston with a hole in it from an I6 Ford that was timed wrong.
Originally Posted By: Jakegday
i advanced it last year to fix this problem it was having, where you had to crank it for literally 10-20 seconds before it would fire up. well that idea actually worked, but now im actually thinking it needs to be retarded from where is sitting right now because whenever i go to shut the engine off, it continues to sputter for the next 5-10 seconds. this sputtering thing just started a couple months ago
The Run-on would not be due to the Timing as the ignition is, of course, turned off when you shut her down. As Demarpaint suggests, check the mixture and/or for carbon in the combustion chambers.
A MMO piston soak would be my choice.
i advanced it last year to fix this problem it was having, where you had to crank it for literally 10-20 seconds before it would fire up. well that idea actually worked, but now im actually thinking it needs to be retarded from where is sitting right now because whenever i go to shut the engine off, it continues to sputter for the next 5-10 seconds. this sputtering thing just started a couple months ago
The Run-on would not be due to the Timing as the ignition is, of course, turned off when you shut her down. As Demarpaint suggests, check the mixture and/or for carbon in the combustion chambers.
A MMO piston soak would be my choice.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: expat
Gas has changed since 81, so has your engines condition.
Advance the ignition until you have Ping, then retard it a little
This would be optimal for the gas you are using.
Too much retard may cause exhaust valves to burn.
Sure will! I had that happen when my friends played a joke on me one time. I had a 71 Ford Maverick (long time ago) and it had the outside hood latch, so any shmo could open the hood. Anyway, they retard my timing real bad,and it burned (actually melted)one of my exhaust valves! Didnt figure out what they did until it was too late.
LOL I saw a piston with a hole in it from an I6 Ford that was timed wrong.
That same thing happened to my Mom`s 77 Gran Prix! (around the same time period too)
Although I dont think my friends did that one. It had the way under powered to weight ratio 301 motor in it. what a slug that thing was. Great car other than that though. Very classy car.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: expat
Gas has changed since 81, so has your engines condition.
Advance the ignition until you have Ping, then retard it a little
This would be optimal for the gas you are using.
Too much retard may cause exhaust valves to burn.
Sure will! I had that happen when my friends played a joke on me one time. I had a 71 Ford Maverick (long time ago) and it had the outside hood latch, so any shmo could open the hood. Anyway, they retard my timing real bad,and it burned (actually melted)one of my exhaust valves! Didnt figure out what they did until it was too late.
LOL I saw a piston with a hole in it from an I6 Ford that was timed wrong.
That same thing happened to my Mom`s 77 Gran Prix! (around the same time period too)
If you have "run on", double check the carburetor dashpot. Many of those carbs had combination dashpot/anti dieseling diaphragms on the throttle linkage, some had actual anti dieseling solenoids that closed the throttle when the key was switched off. If they screw up/stick, you can have symptoms like this.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: punisher
If you have "run on", double check the carburetor dashpot. Many of those carbs had combination dashpot/anti dieseling diaphragms on the throttle linkage, some had actual anti dieseling solenoids that closed the throttle when the key was switched off. If they screw up/stick, you can have symptoms like this.
You light a bulb in my head, that Dashpot was a PITA. It would step up the idle when the AC/Defroster was turned on. Many times they'd mess up, and not kick the idle down when the AC was turned off and cause run on. Sometimes people would turn the engine off with the AC still on and get run on. It is certainly worth the OP's time to check it out.
If you have "run on", double check the carburetor dashpot. Many of those carbs had combination dashpot/anti dieseling diaphragms on the throttle linkage, some had actual anti dieseling solenoids that closed the throttle when the key was switched off. If they screw up/stick, you can have symptoms like this.
You light a bulb in my head, that Dashpot was a PITA. It would step up the idle when the AC/Defroster was turned on. Many times they'd mess up, and not kick the idle down when the AC was turned off and cause run on. Sometimes people would turn the engine off with the AC still on and get run on. It is certainly worth the OP's time to check it out.
To stop run-on, simply turn the car off in gear [automatic].
Works like a charm!
Also, there may be a little electrical solenoid on the carb that is broken. It should shut the idle down all the way with the key off.
Timing? If it were my own, I would advance[a little at a time] it until you hear tapping/pinging/spark knock at either part or wide open throttle. Then retard it 2-4 degrees.
Where to start with modern gasoline? Try the factory listing, first. Or about 4 degrees BEFORE TDC at low idle.
Works like a charm!
Also, there may be a little electrical solenoid on the carb that is broken. It should shut the idle down all the way with the key off.
Timing? If it were my own, I would advance[a little at a time] it until you hear tapping/pinging/spark knock at either part or wide open throttle. Then retard it 2-4 degrees.
Where to start with modern gasoline? Try the factory listing, first. Or about 4 degrees BEFORE TDC at low idle.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Timing? If it were my own, I would advance[a little at a time] it until you hear tapping/pinging/spark knock at either part or wide open throttle. Then retard it 2-4 degrees.
I timed my 85 E150 that way. I took the dog house out, loosened the distrubutor and drove around advancing it until it would ping under heavy load, then backed off a hair. It ran a lot better that way when it was old with high miles on it.
Timing? If it were my own, I would advance[a little at a time] it until you hear tapping/pinging/spark knock at either part or wide open throttle. Then retard it 2-4 degrees.
I timed my 85 E150 that way. I took the dog house out, loosened the distrubutor and drove around advancing it until it would ping under heavy load, then backed off a hair. It ran a lot better that way when it was old with high miles on it.
- Status