1947 Case Model "D" tractor

[GreeCguy]

So it looks like I will soon be the proud owner of a 1947 Case model "D" tractor, (actually, it's a "D.O." - "D" for model type, "O" for orchard set up). Currently, has been sitting outside for an unknown number of years under an oak tree covered with an old tarp with several seasons of leaves and acorns on top of the tarp. Tires have seen much better days motor isn't stuck, (it has a hand crank on the front and the motor does turn over).

Four forward speeds, one in reverse, PTO with wet clutch. Zenith updraft carb, (model 9864) and old "slick" Magneto ignition system. I wish I had the ability to post pictures as to me, this thing looks super cool and I plan on getting it over to my parents place and get it running this summer. Perhaps by then, I'll have figured out how to post pics.

 

[GreeCguy]

BTW - this will be a good companion to the 1950 Case model "D" I already have.

 

[Kruse]

Ah yes. Case is known for the "chicken roost" steering rod that sits along side the left side of the tractor.
Not the brand that I collect, but I have a Case CC tractor.

 

[GreeCguy]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Ah yes. Case is known for the "chicken roost" steering rod that sits along side the left side of the tractor.
Not the brand that I collect, but I have a Case CC tractor.


What year is your "CC"? I have a 1933 "C.O" - it was my Dad's first tractor.

And yes, correct about the steering rod, more like a steering "pipe." And of course the famous "Flambeau Red" paint job.

 

[Donald]

Remember to start get the handle at about 7:00 fingers interlaced, but not thumbs and pull up. If anything happens your interlaced fingers may be pulled apart but you will not break your thumbs.

 

[GreeCguy]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Remember to start get the handle at about 7:00 fingers interlaced, but not thumbs and pull up. If anything happens your interlaced fingers may be pulled apart but you will not break your thumbs.


Thanks for the advice and wisdom - Papa showed me how to crank these's old "D"'s back in the day. Left hand, pull with your body, (not your arm) and DO NOT wrap your thumb around the crank handle. Can you imagine if they made machines like this today? It seems people "back in the day" had more common sense in dealing with dangers.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Remember to start get the handle at about 7:00 fingers interlaced, but not thumbs and pull up. If anything happens your interlaced fingers may be pulled apart but you will not break your thumbs.


Very good advice. I cringe when I see some of the guys hand starting a tractor at the local tractor shows. Many of them are doing it completely wrong. I do like the hand start 2 cylinder Deeres though. There is something about starting a tractor by the flywheel.

There aren't many Case tractors around here, mainly Deere, Farmall, and Fords. Are the orchard models rare?

 

[GreeCguy]

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071

There aren't many Case tractors around here, mainly Deere, Farmall, and Fords. Are the orchard models rare?


In these parts, they used to be abundant because of all the citrus groves, but now they are getting almost impossible to find, mainly because the groves are mostly gone, replaced by houses, stores, roads, etc. What happened was the original owner sold, all his machinery went to the scrap yard and no one thought a thing about it.

As a side note, as much as I like the Case models, the Oliver "Orchard" type was an extremely cool looking tractor.

 

[GreeCguy]

The main difference between a regular tractor and an orchard tractor was the style of tin and the amount of tin. This was done to protect the trees, (not the driver as so many think when they see an orchard type tractor). Likewise the seating is different as is the clutch. You do not sit when driving a tractor in the grove, you stand. (A seat is there, but you never use it). Also, the clutch is hand operated. Typically, here in Florida, the rear tires are turf tires and are very wide, this is because of the sand. If we used the regular "chevron" tires, we'd get stuck real fast as the "chevrons" would act like shovels and dig a hole quickly. Usually as well, the rear tires are filled with water to give them weight so as they pull better. Not a lot of people know this, but rubber tires on tractors started in Winter Garden Florida with Pounds Motor Company.

 

[HM12460]

I've owned several 2 cylinder John Deere's over the years and find owning antique tractor's to be an enjoyable hobby. Keep us posted on your progress. Way back in the day while on active duty in the Navy, I restored a John Deere B in a single stall garage in Norfolk, Va. My neighbor's thought I was nuts.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: HM12460
I've owned several 2 cylinder John Deere's over the years and find owning antique tractor's to be an enjoyable hobby. Keep us posted on your progress. Way back in the day while on active duty in the Navy, I restored a John Deere B in a single stall garage in Norfolk, Va. My neighbor's thought I was nuts.


I've also got a John Deere B that was owned by my dad. It's a crank start with the open spinning flywheel. With all the open moving parts that these things have, the government safety agencies would NEVER let them be sold today. After WWII, I'm sure the farm manufacturers were working around the clock trying to meet demand from the returning GIs.

 

[jeepman3071]

Antique tractors are a great hobby. In high school I restored a 1951 Farmall H as a senior project, and also did a Cub Cadet 122 the year before. Since then we moved across town and no longer had the room in the yard so I had to sell my tractors. Currently being in college, money is tight, but once I graduate I plan on restoring some more.

Be sure to post some pics of that Orchard Case when you get a chance!