'15 Tundra A/T fluid temp for level check

[D60]

What's the proper temp range for a '15 Tundra to check A/T fluid level?

I've seen 103-113F and 115-130F stated in various forums and videos. Both seem credible but only one can be correct.

Yeah I'm aware of locking the t-stat plunger. No, I don't really want to try the jumper method if I could just stay under the truck with my wireless scan tool to verify actual temp. No, I won't use an IR heat gun -- don't worry.

 

[drtyler]

What's the proper temp range for a '15 Tundra to check A/T fluid level?

I've seen 103-113F and 115-130F stated in various forums and videos. Both seem credible but only one can be correct.

Yeah I'm aware of locking the t-stat plunger. No, I don't really want to try the jumper method if I could just stay under the truck with my wireless scan tool to verify actual temp. No, I won't use an IR heat gun -- don't worry.

For the AB60F (transmission used with 5.7 V8 4x4), the range is 99F to 111F. This is per Toyota FSM.

If the truck has the 4.6 V8 with the A760E/F, the temperature range is 127F to 138F according to the FSM.

 

[MSCH]

ever wonder why they have to make it so difficult? never mind, I know the answer.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

I open the check bolt at 110 and put it back when it’s a fine stream….

 

[D60]

For the AB60F (transmission used with 5.7 V8 4x4), the range is 99F to 111F. This is per Toyota FSM.

View attachment 188514


If the truck has the 4.6 V8 with the A760E/F, the temperature range is 127F to 138F according to the FSM.

Thank you! This is the AB60F - I verified on the door jamb sticker.

 

[D60]

My Xtool provided PIDs for two trans temp values Listed as A/T Oil Temp 1 and A/T Oil Temp 2. They were usually within ~1 degree C but rarely exactly the same.

Anyone know what each is?

 

[drtyler]

I believe one is for the torque converter. Can't remember off hand which one, but its obvious when driving.

 

[D60]

I believe one is for the torque converter. Can't remember off hand which one, but its obvious when driving.

Copy thank you.

I think I even saw something for an estimation of trans fluid degradation. I found that interesting since the manufacturers claim "filled for life." I mean it's not like an OLM where it tells you to change your trans fluid. Or is this part of the "Maintenance Required" message perhaps??

 

[The Critic]

ever wonder why they have to make it so difficult? never mind, I know the answer.

It’s easier than a dipstick IMO. Dipsticks can be quite inaccurate if utilized at the wrong temp.

 

[drtyler]

Copy thank you.

I think I even saw something for an estimation of trans fluid degradation. I found that interesting since the manufacturers claim "filled for life." I mean it's not like an OLM where it tells you to change your trans fluid. Or is this part of the "Maintenance Required" message perhaps??

The only job Maintenance Required has on the Tundra (that I have seen) is 5000 mile oil change interval (Flex Fuel) or 10,000 mile interval on non flex-fuel. Reset, and it comes back a bit before the interval is up. Probably far different from the 2022+ Tundra maintenance programming.

I've never seen one light up for anything else, but I probably haven't seen it all either. Critic may have some intel on other bits that might trip it.

 

[D60]

It’s easier than a dipstick IMO. Dipsticks can be quite inaccurate if utilized at the wrong temp.

Yeah, my main complaint might be that you can't realistically check fluid condition or smell it in a private individual sale situation.

Gone are the days of looking at the fluid color on the dipstick and giving it a whiff. Granted, color can be irrelevant as Toy WS and Mercon LV turn dark almost immediately, to name a few.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

The only job Maintenance Required has on the Tundra (that I have seen) is 5000 mile oil change interval (Flex Fuel) or 10,000 mile interval on non flex-fuel. Reset, and it comes back a bit before the interval is up. Probably far different from the 2022+ Tundra maintenance programming.

I've never seen one light up for anything else, but I probably haven't seen it all either. Critic may have some intel on other bits that might trip it.

This is far from the truth.

There is plenty of maintenance/inspection items listed in the maintenance manual of each Toyota. You just have to look for them. There should be ONE page in the OWNER's Manual that says "See Maintenance Manual" for all required maintenance.

Oil changes at 5k / 10k as you insinuated above are for PERFECT driving conditions/habits/behavior. I don't know of anyone that meets those conditions. They are clean, consistent highway speeds most of the time, stop-n-go urban or even suburban "interstate" driving does not qualify for "highway speeds". Very few short trips, very few times operating in cold/hot weather. Not sitting for long periods (more than 96 hours), no towing, very little stop and go...

Otherwise, oil changes should be done at 5k miles (for either engine as long as you don't succumb to using corn-based fuel) or 2500 miles if you have used anything above E-10.... I have a "Flex Fuel" 5.7L engine in my Tundra, it's never seen a drop of E85. I have done 8500-10k mile oil changes when I was meeting the optimal driving habits, now I do 5k miles or less oil changes.

Also - there IS maintenance noted in the manuals for gear oil, filters and..... transmission services along with greasing U-joints on the driveshaft, draining and refilling the radiator, and I believe power steering fluid. One thing that is not mentioned, IIRC, is flushing brake fluid. I realize this is a touchy subject where awesome, seasoned mechanics "have never flushed brake fluid", but they all seem to be able to suggest it as a suggested service at a shop.... I try to flush at least one axle every 36 months.

I highly suggest you service your "sealed" Asin Toyota transmissions and start before 100k miles. I won't say it's easy, but it's do-able with some tools, skills and knowledge. I'll be glad to help anyone get it done, I do my own and have over 100k miles on my trans services between 3 Toyotas in my driveway.

I must be pretty tight about maintenance on my Toyotas, I do much more than what seems like most people talk about, but I have put a combined 350k miles across several models and I haven't had one had to go to the shop yet for anything other than an alignment or tires.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Yeah, my main complaint might be that you can't realistically check fluid condition or smell it in a private individual sale situation.

This is another reason why documented maintenance needs to be more highly regarded and needs to increase value of a used car more than what people place on it today. I don't care if it's a spiral notebook where someone has written down what's been done, it's better than nothing, which is what most used cars have.

 

[D60]

The owner approached our local Toyota dealer (who is lackluster), asking them what they'd reco at his mileage of ~85k.

They came up with a list of pretty much everything, including the "induction service" which seems to be a money grab. This was listed separately from tb cleaning. I will be pulling his tb to clean it.

They listed a "transmission flush" at $270. I have to wonder if it's just a spill 'n fill anyway. Would a Toyota dealer be doing an actual flush at $270? I feel like with a flush requiring 12+ qts of fluid, dealer cost on that much WS approaches $270, esp since they quoted me $101 to just purchase 6 qts.

Anyway, the procedure isn't difficult. And I used the 5/8" OD tubing method to fill the trans and was astonished at how quickly I got ~5 qts into it. Hardly any slower than pouring oil into the valve cover.

According to Manny (The Car Care Nut) all you need to do here is spill 'n fills. If it's good enough for him......

 

[b_b]

This is another reason why documented maintenance needs to be more highly regarded and needs to increase value of a used car more than what people place on it today. I don't care if it's a spiral notebook where someone has written down what's been done, it's better than nothing, which is what most used cars have.

i document everything in the app for my truck so when the next person buys it, they will have the entire maintenance history. there may be a few things I've missed, but the important things are noted.

 

[MSCH]

It’s easier than a dipstick IMO. Dipsticks can be quite inaccurate if utilized at the wrong temp.

yeah... but in the end they make it out to be difficult and reality is fluid level is relatively not all that picky. inother words being off by half a quart doesn't really make much difference.

 

[D60]

yeah... but in the end they make it out to be difficult and reality is fluid level is relatively not all that picky. inother words being off by half a quart doesn't really make much difference.

Yeah I kinda wonder even on this "sealed" unit. I went ahead and pulled the check plug at the minimum acceptable temp. I wasn't sure how quickly it would continue to warm once it hit that point, and I wanted to have enough time to fight a crush washer if it clung to the plug like the differentials did (it didn't, at all).

But I imagine -- and I'm guessing-- doing this at the high end of the range would result in at least 1/2 qt difference. All I know is that I was within the specified temp range, I pulled the check plug, let it slow to a trickle, and replaced. So technically I followed the procedure (shrug)

Honestly the hardest part of the job was sourcing M12 crush washers when I realized I didn't have any. But that's just improper planning.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

A proper transmission service, particularly on the Toyota transmissions prior to 2022/etc., is the following-

Drain, remove pan, remove filter, clean pan, magnets, place new filter and gasket, replace pan. Refill with ~6 quarts (on the Tundra/similar trans), engage the thermostat bypass, start engine, monitor fluid temp. When the temp reaches 110-113°F, I remove the check plug and drain until it's a drizzle.

That is a proper service. Not a flush, not a 'spill-n-fill'. I'm perfectly fine with a drain and refill, recheck if there's been a proper service in the last 20-30k miles. IMO, removing the pan serves several purposes, especially for those concerned about the overall health of their transmission -

It allows you to ensure there's no large pieces of metal, snap rings, etc., in the pan, signs of sure damage on the horizon.

It allows you to clean the pan of built-up friction material and change the filter.

It allows about another 40+ ounces of fluid to be removed.

I subscribe to the theory of performing transmission services early on and on a decent schedule to keep the friction material healthy on the clutches, keeping it out of the fluid. If you neglect the services, the theory is to NOT service the trans, because it is felt that the fluid that has a large amount of suspended friction material, actually helps the clutches continue to work until complete failure.

 

[D60]

 

[D60]

For the AB60F (transmission used with 5.7 V8 4x4), the range is 99F to 111F. This is per Toyota FSM.

View attachment 188514


If the truck has the 4.6 V8 with the A760E/F, the temperature range is 127F to 138F according to the FSM.

So I keep finding 115-130F stated. I wouldn't give it a second thought if it was just a written statement from "whoever," but this thread seems to have images of the FSM stating the same. I'll attach a screenshot. The procedure seems to be dated '07, did Toyota perhaps revise the temp range at some point?

Transmission fluid change

Ok. Will consider on next round. I did the eBay thing

www.tundras.com

Please note I'm trying to argue or prove anyone wrong (or right). It's just that there seems to be a considerable discrepancy and I'm merely trying to understand.

If it were 2 or 3 degrees I'd totally ignore it, but the two potential ranges don't even overlap. I'm not trying to be pedantic, I swear!!