125CC performance Scooter oil?
- Thread starter ktk_ace
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For the record, I think you oughta take it easy on that machine, but if you're gonna run it hard change oil with good HDEO often and run the 2T at that ratio and it'll be better off.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
For the record, I think you oughta take it easy on that machine, but if you're gonna run it hard change oil with good HDEO often and run the 2T at that ratio and it'll be better off.
Which was my recommendation earlier on. What ktk_ace failed to understand is that the correct oil for his scooter is stated in the owner manual. If the recommended oil fails then there are two possible reasons. One, there is something wrong with the engine; or two, the engine is operating outside its intended range. He operates at the limit of the scooter then complained about the oil is reeked of gasoline. Those scooters are tuned from the factory to be a little rich in the mid-range which is the intended operating range. A little rich in the mid-range means that it will be over rich in the top end, hence the fuel dilution. There is no oil that will cure engine abuse or operator ignorance.
Running 2T oil in his engine will cause even more fuel dilution since the 2T will retard the flame front and cause a more incomplete combustion of the over rich mixture. Most fuel injection vehicles are tuned to be a little lean for fuel economy so the 2T oil will help in preventing detonation and may be a little better fuel economy in return. I have even suggested tuning the carb to reduce the fuel dilution but that got nowhere also. Bottom line is ktk_ace just want to change the performance envelope of his scooter by changing the oil. It ain't gonna happen.
For the record, I think you oughta take it easy on that machine, but if you're gonna run it hard change oil with good HDEO often and run the 2T at that ratio and it'll be better off.
Which was my recommendation earlier on. What ktk_ace failed to understand is that the correct oil for his scooter is stated in the owner manual. If the recommended oil fails then there are two possible reasons. One, there is something wrong with the engine; or two, the engine is operating outside its intended range. He operates at the limit of the scooter then complained about the oil is reeked of gasoline. Those scooters are tuned from the factory to be a little rich in the mid-range which is the intended operating range. A little rich in the mid-range means that it will be over rich in the top end, hence the fuel dilution. There is no oil that will cure engine abuse or operator ignorance.
Running 2T oil in his engine will cause even more fuel dilution since the 2T will retard the flame front and cause a more incomplete combustion of the over rich mixture. Most fuel injection vehicles are tuned to be a little lean for fuel economy so the 2T oil will help in preventing detonation and may be a little better fuel economy in return. I have even suggested tuning the carb to reduce the fuel dilution but that got nowhere also. Bottom line is ktk_ace just want to change the performance envelope of his scooter by changing the oil. It ain't gonna happen.
Everybody's scooter isn't as cool as yours.
Trimming the carb isn't a bad idea, but that might cause acceleration and idle problems.
Also, the 2T could help by providing better lubrication and thus a better seal on the top end, lowering total fuel dilution.
And everybody's manual has the proper weight oil in it, but how many of us actually run that oil? It's well known that for some applications another oil may be better suited.
Trimming the carb isn't a bad idea, but that might cause acceleration and idle problems.
Also, the 2T could help by providing better lubrication and thus a better seal on the top end, lowering total fuel dilution.
And everybody's manual has the proper weight oil in it, but how many of us actually run that oil? It's well known that for some applications another oil may be better suited.
There are many web sites about oils used for go-kart racing.
You might try the go-kart sites and try an oil that they recommend that is available in your area. Go-Karts are about the same size engine and rev to 9000 when they race. Many of these racers change oil very often. They also get dirt into there oil when they race. A few of them talk of oils that can be ran for many days of racing.
Red-E is a great go-kart racing oil. It is a straight 20 wt oil. Therefore you might not want to use it in the winter. One site I read talked about an engine that had been raced for 4 years with Red-E and was still within factory specks. Red-E reduces engine temperature, improves available power, allow higher RPM's and increases engine life. It is sold in the US, and I think is saw something about it being sold in Australia.
talk to Marilyn Carnes Red-E Oil 800-576-3882 [email protected]
Royal Purple is a fantastic oil. One site shows it to be the only oil that did not allow a wear scar to form on a bearing under pressure.
If you can't get either of the above You might find an oil that you can get via some go-kart sites.
JimPghPa
You might try the go-kart sites and try an oil that they recommend that is available in your area. Go-Karts are about the same size engine and rev to 9000 when they race. Many of these racers change oil very often. They also get dirt into there oil when they race. A few of them talk of oils that can be ran for many days of racing.
Red-E is a great go-kart racing oil. It is a straight 20 wt oil. Therefore you might not want to use it in the winter. One site I read talked about an engine that had been raced for 4 years with Red-E and was still within factory specks. Red-E reduces engine temperature, improves available power, allow higher RPM's and increases engine life. It is sold in the US, and I think is saw something about it being sold in Australia.
talk to Marilyn Carnes Red-E Oil 800-576-3882 [email protected]
Royal Purple is a fantastic oil. One site shows it to be the only oil that did not allow a wear scar to form on a bearing under pressure.
If you can't get either of the above You might find an oil that you can get via some go-kart sites.
JimPghPa
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Everybody's scooter isn't as cool as yours.
Trimming the carb isn't a bad idea, but that might cause acceleration and idle problems.
Also, the 2T could help by providing better lubrication and thus a better seal on the top end, lowering total fuel dilution.
And everybody's manual has the proper weight oil in it, but how many of us actually run that oil? It's well known that for some applications another oil may be better suited.
It is not a matter of a cool scooter but a matter of knowing the limit of your scooter. Leaning the carb for top end does not effect the idle circuit and actually will help the acceleration on the top end. The mid range will suffer a bit but then he is not using his mid range. He is running too rich now so the 2T oil is not going to help. The proper weight oil in the manual is for typical usage not for engine abuse. There is no oil designed for engine abuse. There are race oils designed for racing in a race prepped engine but that is a different subject altogether.
Everybody's scooter isn't as cool as yours.
Trimming the carb isn't a bad idea, but that might cause acceleration and idle problems.
Also, the 2T could help by providing better lubrication and thus a better seal on the top end, lowering total fuel dilution.
And everybody's manual has the proper weight oil in it, but how many of us actually run that oil? It's well known that for some applications another oil may be better suited.
It is not a matter of a cool scooter but a matter of knowing the limit of your scooter. Leaning the carb for top end does not effect the idle circuit and actually will help the acceleration on the top end. The mid range will suffer a bit but then he is not using his mid range. He is running too rich now so the 2T oil is not going to help. The proper weight oil in the manual is for typical usage not for engine abuse. There is no oil designed for engine abuse. There are race oils designed for racing in a race prepped engine but that is a different subject altogether.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
There are many web sites about oils used for go-kart racing.
He has already tried 300V and I don't think you can get much better than that. He is looking for oils that can go beyond 1000Km. Go-kart racing is not about distance and endurance but more about handling and acceleration. The longest kart race is less than 10Km. I used Redline 4T Kart oil back when I was racing. It is about a 10WT designed specifically Honda engines.
There are many web sites about oils used for go-kart racing.
He has already tried 300V and I don't think you can get much better than that. He is looking for oils that can go beyond 1000Km. Go-kart racing is not about distance and endurance but more about handling and acceleration. The longest kart race is less than 10Km. I used Redline 4T Kart oil back when I was racing. It is about a 10WT designed specifically Honda engines.
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Everybody's scooter isn't as cool as yours.
Trimming the carb isn't a bad idea, but that might cause acceleration and idle problems.
Also, the 2T could help by providing better lubrication and thus a better seal on the top end, lowering total fuel dilution.
And everybody's manual has the proper weight oil in it, but how many of us actually run that oil? It's well known that for some applications another oil may be better suited.
It is not a matter of a cool scooter but a matter of knowing the limit of your scooter. Leaning the carb for top end does not effect the idle circuit and actually will help the acceleration on the top end. The mid range will suffer a bit but then he is not using his mid range. He is running too rich now so the 2T oil is not going to help. The proper weight oil in the manual is for typical usage not for engine abuse. There is no oil designed for engine abuse. There are race oils designed for racing in a race prepped engine but that is a different subject altogether.
Im using my scooter for commuting.
Factory fill for the Japanese manual states 10W30 , so 5W40 is too lean ?
Modding the CVT for hilly terrain is abusing the scooter?
300V 5W40 I repeat is NOT the most responsive oil that i have used .
I have used the Fina Formula Racing 5W50 which eats the 300V for breakfast right off the throttle, but it goes bad beyond 750KM and is not cheap either.
Racing oils is off the list for me.
I just want a cheap rev happy oil that can last me 1000KM, no more no less.
Didnt know its soooo hard.
ps.
if i want to abuse the scooter, i would just get a custom CDI with no rev limit.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Everybody's scooter isn't as cool as yours.
Trimming the carb isn't a bad idea, but that might cause acceleration and idle problems.
Also, the 2T could help by providing better lubrication and thus a better seal on the top end, lowering total fuel dilution.
And everybody's manual has the proper weight oil in it, but how many of us actually run that oil? It's well known that for some applications another oil may be better suited.
It is not a matter of a cool scooter but a matter of knowing the limit of your scooter. Leaning the carb for top end does not effect the idle circuit and actually will help the acceleration on the top end. The mid range will suffer a bit but then he is not using his mid range. He is running too rich now so the 2T oil is not going to help. The proper weight oil in the manual is for typical usage not for engine abuse. There is no oil designed for engine abuse. There are race oils designed for racing in a race prepped engine but that is a different subject altogether.
Im using my scooter for commuting.
Factory fill for the Japanese manual states 10W30 , so 5W40 is too lean ?
Modding the CVT for hilly terrain is abusing the scooter?
300V 5W40 I repeat is NOT the most responsive oil that i have used .
I have used the Fina Formula Racing 5W50 which eats the 300V for breakfast right off the throttle, but it goes bad beyond 750KM and is not cheap either.
Racing oils is off the list for me.
I just want a cheap rev happy oil that can last me 1000KM, no more no less.
Didnt know its soooo hard.
ps.
if i want to abuse the scooter, i would just get a custom CDI with no rev limit.
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Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Factory fill for the Japanese manual states 10W30 , so 5W40 is too lean ?
I have used the Fina Formula Racing 5W50 which eats the 300V for breakfast right off the throttle
Your engine is air-cooled so oil viscosity does matter depending on how you intend to use the scooter. Most if not all high performance scooters recommend X-40 WT oil. Your manual recommend a lighter weight 10w30 because your scooter is not a high performance scooter. Running a thicker oil is not a cure for fuel dilution and comparing two different weight oils 5w50 vs 5w40 is not a correct comparison.
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Modding the CVT for hilly terrain is abusing the scooter?
Yes it is, otherwise why did you do it? What make you think you know more about the scooter than the manufacturer? If you tell the dealer that you have modified the CVT do you think they still honor the factory warranty?
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
I just want a cheap rev happy oil that can last me 1000KM, no more no less.
Didnt know its soooo hard.
If it was easy you would not be asking it here, it would already be in your owner manual. No oil will fix the way you drive your scooter. It would be easier to tune your carb for top end usage and forget about engine longevity.
Factory fill for the Japanese manual states 10W30 , so 5W40 is too lean ?
I have used the Fina Formula Racing 5W50 which eats the 300V for breakfast right off the throttle
Your engine is air-cooled so oil viscosity does matter depending on how you intend to use the scooter. Most if not all high performance scooters recommend X-40 WT oil. Your manual recommend a lighter weight 10w30 because your scooter is not a high performance scooter. Running a thicker oil is not a cure for fuel dilution and comparing two different weight oils 5w50 vs 5w40 is not a correct comparison.
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Modding the CVT for hilly terrain is abusing the scooter?
Yes it is, otherwise why did you do it? What make you think you know more about the scooter than the manufacturer? If you tell the dealer that you have modified the CVT do you think they still honor the factory warranty?
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
I just want a cheap rev happy oil that can last me 1000KM, no more no less.
Didnt know its soooo hard.
If it was easy you would not be asking it here, it would already be in your owner manual. No oil will fix the way you drive your scooter. It would be easier to tune your carb for top end usage and forget about engine longevity.
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Factory fill for the Japanese manual states 10W30 , so 5W40 is too lean ?
I have used the Fina Formula Racing 5W50 which eats the 300V for breakfast right off the throttle
Your engine is air-cooled so oil viscosity does matter depending on how you intend to use the scooter. Most if not all high performance scooters recommend X-40 WT oil. Your manual recommend a lighter weight 10w30 because your scooter is not a high performance scooter. Running a thicker oil is not a cure for fuel dilution and comparing two different weight oils 5w50 vs 5w40 is not a correct comparison.
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Modding the CVT for hilly terrain is abusing the scooter?
Yes it is, otherwise why did you do it? What make you think you know more about the scooter than the manufacturer? If you tell the dealer that you have modified the CVT do you think they still honor the factory warranty?
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
I just want a cheap rev happy oil that can last me 1000KM, no more no less.
Didnt know its soooo hard.
If it was easy you would not be asking it here, it would already be in your owner manual. No oil will fix the way you drive your scooter. It would be easier to tune your carb for top end usage and forget about engine longevity.
I modded it the day the warranty was over.
WHAT warranty?
My scooters my ride, I define ABUSE, not you. I dont welcome someone giving me pep talk when all my requirements is listed and someone yaking about ABUSE comes in talking little about oil in the process.
Go preach somewhere else pls.
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Factory fill for the Japanese manual states 10W30 , so 5W40 is too lean ?
I have used the Fina Formula Racing 5W50 which eats the 300V for breakfast right off the throttle
Your engine is air-cooled so oil viscosity does matter depending on how you intend to use the scooter. Most if not all high performance scooters recommend X-40 WT oil. Your manual recommend a lighter weight 10w30 because your scooter is not a high performance scooter. Running a thicker oil is not a cure for fuel dilution and comparing two different weight oils 5w50 vs 5w40 is not a correct comparison.
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
Modding the CVT for hilly terrain is abusing the scooter?
Yes it is, otherwise why did you do it? What make you think you know more about the scooter than the manufacturer? If you tell the dealer that you have modified the CVT do you think they still honor the factory warranty?
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
I just want a cheap rev happy oil that can last me 1000KM, no more no less.
Didnt know its soooo hard.
If it was easy you would not be asking it here, it would already be in your owner manual. No oil will fix the way you drive your scooter. It would be easier to tune your carb for top end usage and forget about engine longevity.
I modded it the day the warranty was over.
WHAT warranty?
My scooters my ride, I define ABUSE, not you. I dont welcome someone giving me pep talk when all my requirements is listed and someone yaking about ABUSE comes in talking little about oil in the process.
Go preach somewhere else pls.
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I think we're witnessing Scooter Face/Off 2K9
Originally Posted By: ktk_ace
I modded it the day the warranty was over.
WHAT warranty?
My scooters my ride, I define ABUSE, not you. I dont welcome someone giving me pep talk when all my requirements is listed and someone yaking about ABUSE comes in talking little about oil in the process.
Go preach somewhere else pls.
Why did you not modify it from day 1? Because you know that the warranty will be over from day 1 because the manufacturer defines abuse when it is still under warranty, not you. Read the warnings in your owner manual so you can understand what abuse means per the manufacturer of the vehicle. You can not define abuse, you just being you. This forum is about asking the correct oil for your ride and not the correct oil to abuse your engine after the warranty period. Get it?
Take your question somewhere else if you can't understand an honest answer. There is no oil that will satisfy your requirements base on how you plan to abuse your "little" scooter. If World Class record setting Motul 300V will not satisfy you then nothing will.
I modded it the day the warranty was over.
WHAT warranty?
My scooters my ride, I define ABUSE, not you. I dont welcome someone giving me pep talk when all my requirements is listed and someone yaking about ABUSE comes in talking little about oil in the process.
Go preach somewhere else pls.
Why did you not modify it from day 1? Because you know that the warranty will be over from day 1 because the manufacturer defines abuse when it is still under warranty, not you. Read the warnings in your owner manual so you can understand what abuse means per the manufacturer of the vehicle. You can not define abuse, you just being you. This forum is about asking the correct oil for your ride and not the correct oil to abuse your engine after the warranty period. Get it?
Take your question somewhere else if you can't understand an honest answer. There is no oil that will satisfy your requirements base on how you plan to abuse your "little" scooter. If World Class record setting Motul 300V will not satisfy you then nothing will.
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I would find out what your oil pressure spec is and put in a gauge. I bet at higher RPMs you're meeting it & or in bypass, and the thinner 30 weights will work fine and rev better too.
As for the fuel dilution, what do you have for crankcase ventilation? If you have, say, a road breather tube, you might be able to find a for-US-export closed system with PCV type control that might boil the fuel out better.
As for the fuel dilution, what do you have for crankcase ventilation? If you have, say, a road breather tube, you might be able to find a for-US-export closed system with PCV type control that might boil the fuel out better.
Regarding your motor scooter: It would be a good step in the right direction to get the air/fuel mixture correct. In your previous post you talked of the engine running rich, on the high rpm end. Can you do anything to improve the breathing of the carburetor, reduce input air restriction by using a larger air filter, stacking two air filters with a longer screw to hold them together, enlarge input vents to air filter, channel cooler air to air filter, or even just cleaning the air filter more often. If the input air restriction is reduced the vacuum that helps the fuel raise in the passage feeding the jet in the carb will be reduced (a little less fuel will flow) and the air flow will improve (more air for a given rpm), both of these are steps in the right direction for your air / fuel mixture high end rpm's.
Regarding oil: You said you tried Motul 300 V and it was too thick. For high rpm's you obvious require a lighter oil (light oils that hold up like RED-E work great in high rev engines). One of the problems you are running into is the fact that oils are specked in increments (usually 10, sometimes 5). One manufacturers 10W40 or 10W30 might be right on with the higher number being just thick enough to rate that number. Another manufacturers oil might have a higher number that is just below the specification required for it to be rated a the next highest increment. So one 10W40 might be so close to a 10W50 that it would be too thick for your engine. Another 10W40 might be great for you. The same goes for 10W30. It depends on what the ideal weight for your engine would be.
If you can make improvement in the fuel dilution problem by improving the carb breathing and / or adjusting the carb. Then you might want to try Motul 10W30 for warm weather, and Motul X-Lite 0W30 for cold weather. Since Motul is available in your area, and Motul is a very good oil.
Good luck.
Ps: if you do solve your problem and achieve the desired 1000KM OCI with desired engine response please post what works.
Regarding oil: You said you tried Motul 300 V and it was too thick. For high rpm's you obvious require a lighter oil (light oils that hold up like RED-E work great in high rev engines). One of the problems you are running into is the fact that oils are specked in increments (usually 10, sometimes 5). One manufacturers 10W40 or 10W30 might be right on with the higher number being just thick enough to rate that number. Another manufacturers oil might have a higher number that is just below the specification required for it to be rated a the next highest increment. So one 10W40 might be so close to a 10W50 that it would be too thick for your engine. Another 10W40 might be great for you. The same goes for 10W30. It depends on what the ideal weight for your engine would be.
If you can make improvement in the fuel dilution problem by improving the carb breathing and / or adjusting the carb. Then you might want to try Motul 10W30 for warm weather, and Motul X-Lite 0W30 for cold weather. Since Motul is available in your area, and Motul is a very good oil.
Good luck.
Ps: if you do solve your problem and achieve the desired 1000KM OCI with desired engine response please post what works.
Regarding your motor scooter: It would be a good step in the right direction to get the air/fuel mixture correct. In your previous post you talked of the engine running rich, on the high rpm end. Can you do anything to improve the breathing of the carburetor, reduce input air restriction by using a larger air filter, stacking two air filters with a longer screw to hold them together, enlarge input vents to air filter, channel cooler air to air filter, or even just cleaning the air filter more often. If the input air restriction is reduced the vacuum that helps the fuel raise in the passage feeding the jet in the carb will be reduced (a little less fuel will flow), and the air flow will improve (more air for a given rpm), both of these are steps in the right direction for your air / fuel mixture high end rpm's.
Regarding oil: You said you tried Motul 300 V and it was too thick. Thus for high rpm's you require a lighter oil (light oils that hold up like RED-E work great in high rev engines). One of the problems you are running into is the fact that oils are specked in increments (usually 10, sometimes 5). One manufacturers 10W40 or 10W30 might be right on with the higher number being just thick enough to rate that number. Another manufacturers oil might have a higher number that is just below the specification required for it to be rated a the next highest increment. So one 10W40 might be so close to a 10W50 that it would be too thick for your engine. Another 10W40 might be great for you. The same goes for 10W30. It depends on what the ideal weight for your engine would be.
If you can make improvement in the fuel dilution problem by improving the carb breathing and / or adjusting the carb. Then you might want to try Motul 10W30 for warm weather, and Motul X-Lite 0W30 for cold weather. Since Motul is available in your area, and Motul is a very good oil.
Good luck.
Ps: if you do solve your problem and achieve the desired 1000KM OCI with desired engine response please post what works.
JimPghPa
Regarding oil: You said you tried Motul 300 V and it was too thick. Thus for high rpm's you require a lighter oil (light oils that hold up like RED-E work great in high rev engines). One of the problems you are running into is the fact that oils are specked in increments (usually 10, sometimes 5). One manufacturers 10W40 or 10W30 might be right on with the higher number being just thick enough to rate that number. Another manufacturers oil might have a higher number that is just below the specification required for it to be rated a the next highest increment. So one 10W40 might be so close to a 10W50 that it would be too thick for your engine. Another 10W40 might be great for you. The same goes for 10W30. It depends on what the ideal weight for your engine would be.
If you can make improvement in the fuel dilution problem by improving the carb breathing and / or adjusting the carb. Then you might want to try Motul 10W30 for warm weather, and Motul X-Lite 0W30 for cold weather. Since Motul is available in your area, and Motul is a very good oil.
Good luck.
Ps: if you do solve your problem and achieve the desired 1000KM OCI with desired engine response please post what works.
JimPghPa
I know these scooters very well and a larger air cleaner is out of the question. A competition exhaust system is the easiest route but then he will be the money maker for the local police. This bike is spec 10W30 in Japan but 20W40 outside of Japan (Vietnam, Thailand, etc). Southeast Asia is a lot hotter than Japan and this engine is air cooled meant to be driven in congested traffic. In my air cooled Suzuki 110cc I run Belray EXS 10w50 with no problem. There is no such thing as cold weather in Taiwan, average temp is 72F year round.
I think azsynthetic has some good points ... but I can't agree that the manufacturer of a vehicle always knows best. They build and tune for general use. If your use is at the edge or even outside that envelope some modification and/or tuning is in order.
But no, a different oil will not solve a performance problem. The effects on performance will be a few percentage points, depending how you measure them. Oil use/choice is primarily a durability issue.
Having said that, ktk ace, unless you get your fuel dilution under control, that’s your number one lubricant-related problem. So, I would recommend a conventional 15w40 HDEO changed frequently … I’m just not sure what’s available in your region. You might try a synthetic 5W-40 during the coldest season … but 10C degrees is not too cold for 15w40 to work well.
But no, a different oil will not solve a performance problem. The effects on performance will be a few percentage points, depending how you measure them. Oil use/choice is primarily a durability issue.
Having said that, ktk ace, unless you get your fuel dilution under control, that’s your number one lubricant-related problem. So, I would recommend a conventional 15w40 HDEO changed frequently … I’m just not sure what’s available in your region. You might try a synthetic 5W-40 during the coldest season … but 10C degrees is not too cold for 15w40 to work well.
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
I know these scooters very well and a larger air cleaner is out of the question. A competition exhaust system is the easiest route but then he will be the money maker for the local police. This bike is spec 10W30 in Japan but 20W40 outside of Japan (Vietnam, Thailand, etc). Southeast Asia is a lot hotter than Japan and this engine is air cooled meant to be driven in congested traffic. In my air cooled Suzuki 110cc I run Belray EXS 10w50 with no problem. There is no such thing as cold weather in Taiwan, average temp is 72F year round.
\
there is no cold weather in taiwan,
you just lost all your points for credibility poser.
I purposly put 10w30 and 20W40 so as to see if u know anything at all.
Answer is NO.
My scooter's spec is NOT 20W40 in the manual.
As for the exhaust pipe, the factory stock pipe is best for 0-70 , i have no need for top end anyway, i dont racer.
PS. GO dig your own grave pls, kthxbye.
I know these scooters very well and a larger air cleaner is out of the question. A competition exhaust system is the easiest route but then he will be the money maker for the local police. This bike is spec 10W30 in Japan but 20W40 outside of Japan (Vietnam, Thailand, etc). Southeast Asia is a lot hotter than Japan and this engine is air cooled meant to be driven in congested traffic. In my air cooled Suzuki 110cc I run Belray EXS 10w50 with no problem. There is no such thing as cold weather in Taiwan, average temp is 72F year round.
\
there is no cold weather in taiwan,
you just lost all your points for credibility poser.
I purposly put 10w30 and 20W40 so as to see if u know anything at all.
Answer is NO.
My scooter's spec is NOT 20W40 in the manual.
As for the exhaust pipe, the factory stock pipe is best for 0-70 , i have no need for top end anyway, i dont racer.
PS. GO dig your own grave pls, kthxbye.
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Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
I think azsynthetic has some good points ... but I can't agree that the manufacturer of a vehicle always knows best. They build and tune for general use. If your use is at the edge or even outside that envelope some modification and/or tuning is in order.
But no, a different oil will not solve a performance problem. The effects on performance will be a few percentage points, depending how you measure them. Oil use/choice is primarily a durability issue.
Having said that, ktk ace, unless you get your fuel dilution under control, that’s your number one lubricant-related problem. So, I would recommend a conventional 15w40 HDEO changed frequently … I’m just not sure what’s available in your region. You might try a synthetic 5W-40 during the coldest season … but 10C degrees is not too cold for 15w40 to work well.
Im getting a breather tube for my oil tank soon, saw one on sale at less than 10 USD.
Im not looking for alot of performance in oil, just the right oil for my cvt moddded scooter.
If i wanted outright performance, i would have bought a Honda NSR 2 stroke. Lots of factors come into play.
I think azsynthetic has some good points ... but I can't agree that the manufacturer of a vehicle always knows best. They build and tune for general use. If your use is at the edge or even outside that envelope some modification and/or tuning is in order.
But no, a different oil will not solve a performance problem. The effects on performance will be a few percentage points, depending how you measure them. Oil use/choice is primarily a durability issue.
Having said that, ktk ace, unless you get your fuel dilution under control, that’s your number one lubricant-related problem. So, I would recommend a conventional 15w40 HDEO changed frequently … I’m just not sure what’s available in your region. You might try a synthetic 5W-40 during the coldest season … but 10C degrees is not too cold for 15w40 to work well.
Im getting a breather tube for my oil tank soon, saw one on sale at less than 10 USD.
Im not looking for alot of performance in oil, just the right oil for my cvt moddded scooter.
If i wanted outright performance, i would have bought a Honda NSR 2 stroke. Lots of factors come into play.
If the ambient air temperature "NEVER" goes below 40 Fahrenheit, then mono-grade HD30 weight would be a better choice compared to a multi-grade XW30. Mono-grade oils are lower in cost, and there viscosity holds up longer. Mono-grade oils (in general) have a higher Zinc level that gives better protection in demanding applications such as air cooled engines.
If the ambient air temperature "NEVER" goes below 60 Fahrenheit, then mono-grade HD40 weight could be used, and would be a better choice compared to XW40. If a 40 weight is the appropriate choice for the engine being used.
If you do use a mono-grade go with a good brand name such as Castrol, to insure you are getting a good quality oil.
JimPghPa
If the ambient air temperature "NEVER" goes below 60 Fahrenheit, then mono-grade HD40 weight could be used, and would be a better choice compared to XW40. If a 40 weight is the appropriate choice for the engine being used.
If you do use a mono-grade go with a good brand name such as Castrol, to insure you are getting a good quality oil.
JimPghPa
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