$114 later…

Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
3,112
Location
Rochester, MI, US, World
I have a new caliper bracket. 😬 replaced the shocks and struts on the Explorer today, and lubed the brakes at the same time. Thankfully I did, because one of the front pins was nearly seized. One of the rear pins was completely seized, could not get it out. This is despite the fact that less than two years ago I lubed everything with Sil Glyde (I have moved to silicone paste since). Unfortunately, no one carries just the bracket for the HD brake package. Local Ford dealer carries it for $220 (yeah right). The cheapest option was to buy a whole caliper assembly from the auto parts store. The included bracket actually had Motorcraft markings on it, just had been R+R’d. I’m going to return the core with the new caliper and the old bracket. I thought about replacing the caliper, just because. But the vehicle only has 87k miles on it, and the fittings were quite corroded, so I decided against it.

But man, in what world is a remanned single piston caliper $114?
 
Parts stores cost more than Rock Auto, and of course you have the HD brakes :sneaky:

You should've just gotten an all-new caliper
I really really don’t want to remove a caliper if I don’t have to. I don’t know where you’re from, but in the rust belt things get so stuck sometimes where it’s better just leaving it be. Existing one still works fine, brakes wearing even. Just needed the bracket.
 
I would have installed the new caliper also. What could be rusty or corroded? Just the brake hose connection to the caliper.

I would have thought with some work you could have gotten the old pins out and then installed new pins.
 
I’ve replaced just the bracket before. Last weekend my cousin was looking for just a caliper bracket and she tried everywhere to find it and eventually just had to order one online. Couldn’t even source one at the junkyard. Personally I’d rather do just the brackets if the piston is good so that way you don’t have to bleed the brakes.
 
I would have installed the new caliper also. What could be rusty or corroded? Just the brake hose connection to the caliper.

I would have thought with some work you could have gotten the old pins out and then installed new pins.
I’d have thought so too, but I could not get the pin out no matter what I tried. It would spin with an impact, but wouldn’t budge in or out, even with heat. There must have been a serious rust ridge in there, and I think that pin has the rubber isolator sleeve that loves to get caught up.
 
"This is despite the fact that less than two years ago I lubed everything with Sil Glyde (I have moved to silicone paste since)." - OP.

I am confused, did you use Sil Glyde which is a silcone paste? Or did switch from Sil Glyde to something else that is also a paste?

I have Napa Sil Glyde I use on brakes and weather stripping and it is a paste in a tube and it always works great.
 
Sil-glyde is thickened silicone in mineral oil. (I think).

There is also silicone paste which is pure silicone and a thickener. I think some are moving to that to lubricate the caliper pins.
 
I believe sil glyde is made with silica, no? Is silica not what is used to make a paste? I have never used the stuff though, I use silaramic.
 
"This is despite the fact that less than two years ago I lubed everything with Sil Glyde (I have moved to silicone paste since)." - OP.

I am confused, did you use Sil Glyde which is a silcone paste? Or did switch from Sil Glyde to something else that is also a paste?

I have Napa Sil Glyde I use on brakes and weather stripping and it is a paste in a tube and it always works great.
I see now how my post was confusing haha. I only switched to silicone paste the other day when I lubed the brakes. Sil Glyde isn’t pure silicone, and others have noticed the same thing I have: that it dries up or gets super thick over time to where stuff seizes.
 
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