10w30 in a Polaris atv.

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Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.


Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?

Not all wear occurs at operating temperatures. One big advantage of of a 0w-xx is it's ability to flow quickly at startup....even in Florida. I'm sure the manufacturers have that in mind or they simply wouldn't have recomended it. If startup flow didn't matter then why even use a multi weight at all in the southern U.S.? Common sense.


A 0w40 oil here in -20C Canadian winter will be thicker then a 15w40 oil in +30C Florida at start up. That's my problem with the "one oil fits everyone" theory, it doesn't make sense. Ambient temp plays a part even in liquid cooled engines, and can negate the ultra low winter rating of a 0wxx, or increase/lower the operating temp viscosity requirement.

Yes, it would be thicker. But I'm sure the Polaris engineers took all available data of the intended geographic use of it's ATV, and gave it a best 'all-around' oil viscosity recomendation. Otherwise you'd have fools from schmuck-ville putting who knows what into the filler hole. A baseline needed to be derived at....for longevity and warranty purposes. But if you want to talk about operating the ATV in extremes of temps and climate....yes, I'm sure it would be a good idea to adapt to a different viscosity. But I still would not say that Florida is extreme. Perhaps Arizona in July/August? You bet.
 
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When I was a kid we had Honda atcs and I remmember litterly dumping whatever was there at oil change time. This was in Pennsylvania with nasty winters, but those atcs ran flawless and I remmember for sure they got Kendall 10w30, Pennzoil 15w40 and Castrol GTX 10w40 at different times. I seen little or no difference. I would not even say atv engines are at remotely the same as car engines with multiple(way more than two) and all the emmision stuff, variable timings and etc.. I think of a atv motor that pretty much bathes the crank and glugs whatever everywhere, sorta like a fancy high tech lawn mower engine really. Weight would play little into the start up theory. I think Polaris just comes out with these goofy weights so people cant find another cheaper oil to use. When Polaris first came out with the 0w40, this was a longtime before anybody else started making the 0w's, now they have a 2w50 or something, its just a curve ball. Like they call the gear oil, angle shaft lubricant or some weird name.
 
Excellent lesson in reality there Panzerman.

Novices are often the most vocal about using premium grade oils or manufacturer brand name lubricants but those of us who've been around for a while know how to cut through the marketing smoke screen.

I've never been sucked into buying manufacturer brand name oil and seldom buy synthetic oil. I usually buy one liter of synthetic a year just for my snow thrower and I'm probably going back to using conventional oil in it because it goes through about an ounce of synthetic oil every two hours of use. I had two old Tecumseh powered snow throwers for twenty year that did the same work but never used an ounce of oil all winter! I ran nothing but 5W30 conventional oil in those engines.

Oil marketing is a lot like sparkling, shiny fishing lures that novices can't seem to resist. They see it, they bite. Many are also convinced that the sixteen year old shop boy or the sales manager of the dealership know more about oil than anyone else because they work for the outfit that sells the machines. Some learn over time and grow out of it. Others steadfastly maintain that your engine will self destruct in no time if you use anything but the most expensive oil available.

There is no teacher like experience. Like you, I live in a cold climate. I owned two 1980s air cooled Suzuki ATVs and ran them winter and summer and they saw a great deal of hard service. They didn't get any special maintenance. Mostly oil/filter changes and cleaning of the air filter and one or two valve lash adjustments in over 20+ years. That was it. For winter use, they'd get any reasonable quality 5/10W30 and during summer 15W40. Those machines never skipped a beat.

Some people put far too much emphasis on brand name/synthetic oils when, in reality the oil probably does not provide anywhere near the additional protection to reflect their cost. Any decent quality HDEO changed regularly will provide 99.9% of the protection that the premium oils provide at one third to one fifth the cost provided the oil is changed at reasonable intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Excellent lesson in reality there Panzerman.

Novices are often the most vocal about using premium grade oils or manufacturer brand name lubricants but those of us who've been around for a while know how to cut through the marketing smoke screen.

I've never been sucked into buying manufacturer brand name oil and seldom buy synthetic oil. I usually buy one liter of synthetic a year just for my snow thrower and I'm probably going back to using conventional oil in it because it goes through about an ounce of synthetic oil every two hours of use. I had two old Tecumseh powered snow throwers for twenty year that did the same work but never used an ounce of oil all winter! I ran nothing but 5W30 conventional oil in those engines.

Oil marketing is a lot like sparkling, shiny fishing lures that novices can't seem to resist. They see it, they bite. Many are also convinced that the sixteen year old shop boy or the sales manager of the dealership know more about oil than anyone else because they work for the outfit that sells the machines. Some learn over time and grow out of it. Others steadfastly maintain that your engine will self destruct in no time if you use anything but the most expensive oil available.

There is no teacher like experience. Like you, I live in a cold climate. I owned two 1980s air cooled Suzuki ATVs and ran them winter and summer and they saw a great deal of hard service. They didn't get any special maintenance. Mostly oil/filter changes and cleaning of the air filter and one or two valve lash adjustments in over 20+ years. That was it. For winter use, they'd get any reasonable quality 5/10W30 and during summer 15W40. Those machines never skipped a beat.

Some people put far too much emphasis on brand name/synthetic oils when, in reality the oil probably does not provide anywhere near the additional protection to reflect their cost. Any decent quality HDEO changed regularly will provide 99.9% of the protection that the premium oils provide at one third to one fifth the cost provided the oil is changed at reasonable intervals.

So Boraticus....do you find it difficult to post a message without being insulting? Name calling and personal slights seem to be your mission....just before a thread gets closed down. You know my friend, insulting others, no matter how thinly you 'disguise' it, is really not a decent way of having discussion. It also makes others not enjoy having discourse on this board. Perhaps if you find me or others so objectionable you should send the insults in a PM or something so as to keep the boards friendly and enjoyable for all?!
Now I'll go back to my 'novice' little life and purchase loads of products I get 'sucked' into buying.
 
Man, that is a super nice ATV. Rotella 5W-40 would be a fine choice and save you a few $$ over the average Polaris oil. Your cams will thank you for it.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brett Miller
Man, that is a super nice ATV. Rotella 5W-40 would be a fine choice and save you a few $$ over the average Polaris oil. Your cams will thank you for it.


Excellent oil for a great price!
 
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