Is it possible to run this oil that long? May go in the CRV.
10K QSUD
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It depends on the engine and oil grade in question. QSUD 0w-20 or 5w-20 would be fine for 10-11k miles in our Fit since it's a low-powered NA engine that's easy on oil. QSUD 5w30 for 10k miles in my Cruze is a disaster because that little turbo mill is hard on oil.
Check out various QSUD UOAs for extended mileage usage. Should be several (guessing). If going over 7.5k, consider a quality filter.
I'd say easy possible.
I'd say easy possible.
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Castrol edge TBNs are higher than pennzoil or M1 in extended drains, so don't forget that one.
I have hate for anything with a "C" if used on a Toyota.
M1 response states the TBN goes to 2 rapidly and stays there for 10k and beyond so I'm not sure hot important TBN is over TAN.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Castrol edge TBNs are higher than pennzoil or M1 in extended drains, so don't forget that one.
I have hate for anything with a "C" if used on a Toyota.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Castrol edge TBNs are higher than pennzoil or M1 in extended drains, so don't forget that one.
I have hate for anything with a "C" if used on a Toyota.
M1 response states the TBN goes to 2 rapidly and stays there for 10k and beyond so I'm not sure hot important TBN is over TAN.
With a stable and adequate TBN the TAN would skyrocket. What do you have against castrol oils? I was never a fan until I tried some edge with ti.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Castrol edge TBNs are higher than pennzoil or M1 in extended drains, so don't forget that one.
I have hate for anything with a "C" if used on a Toyota.
With a stable and adequate TBN the TAN would skyrocket. What do you have against castrol oils? I was never a fan until I tried some edge with ti.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Castrol edge TBNs are higher than pennzoil or M1 in extended drains, so don't forget that one.
I have hate for anything with a "C" if used on a Toyota.
M1 response states the TBN goes to 2 rapidly and stays there for 10k and beyond so I'm not sure hot important TBN is over TAN.
With a stable and adequate TBN the TAN would skyrocket. What do you have against castrol oils? I was never a fan until I tried some edge with ti.
I've asked and kept track of oils that failed on Toyota's for the last 5 years leading to oil consumption, deposits, sludge, etc. 80% of the time it was/is/continues to be Castrol. Assumption is volatility issues in aluminum engines. Nothing with C can handle the heat. People don't agree, but I'm sorry. DON'T use Castrol in a Toyota engine! Toyota thinks so too I guess, why they created their own brew, which is too late for most, cause the damage is done. Clogged piston oil return holes.
I don't care, want the best oil for my Toyotas. Research says Castrol is a bad Match for Toyotas if you want 300k
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
According to the UOA's on here the only 10k OTC oils are M1 and Pennzoil.
Castrol edge TBNs are higher than pennzoil or M1 in extended drains, so don't forget that one.
I have hate for anything with a "C" if used on a Toyota.
With a stable and adequate TBN the TAN would skyrocket. What do you have against castrol oils? I was never a fan until I tried some edge with ti.
I've asked and kept track of oils that failed on Toyota's for the last 5 years leading to oil consumption, deposits, sludge, etc. 80% of the time it was/is/continues to be Castrol. Assumption is volatility issues in aluminum engines. Nothing with C can handle the heat. People don't agree, but I'm sorry. DON'T use Castrol in a Toyota engine! Toyota thinks so too I guess, why they created their own brew, which is too late for most, cause the damage is done. Clogged piston oil return holes.
I don't care, want the best oil for my Toyotas. Research says Castrol is a bad Match for Toyotas if you want 300k
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If that was true how did castrol edge with ti end up 1st in the TEOST when amsoil did their comparison in may. Do you actually have data or is this from "experience" from heresay? Pure [censored] in my opinion. If castrol really were that bad how would they meet the SN specs for sludge, deposits, and NOACK.
Originally Posted By: volk06
If that was true how did castrol edge with ti end up 1st in the TEOST when amsoil did their comparison in may. Do you actually have data or is this from "experience" from heresay? Pure [censored] in my opinion. If castrol really were that bad how would they meet the SN specs for sludge, deposits, and NOACK.
He didnt state that Castrol is bad but that its been seen to not be good in Toyota engines. I wouldnt use Castrol for a few reasons but its not to say it isnt great oil in the right application (most).
If that was true how did castrol edge with ti end up 1st in the TEOST when amsoil did their comparison in may. Do you actually have data or is this from "experience" from heresay? Pure [censored] in my opinion. If castrol really were that bad how would they meet the SN specs for sludge, deposits, and NOACK.
He didnt state that Castrol is bad but that its been seen to not be good in Toyota engines. I wouldnt use Castrol for a few reasons but its not to say it isnt great oil in the right application (most).
A friend of mine was going 14-16K OCI's on dino with mostly 1-2 mile trips (2 to 2.5 year OCIs) on that engine. When I did a valve adjustment on the car, the top half of the engine looked fine. 10K on any good synthetic on that engine should be fine.
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: volk06
If that was true how did castrol edge with ti end up 1st in the TEOST when amsoil did their comparison in may. Do you actually have data or is this from "experience" from heresay? Pure [censored] in my opinion. If castrol really were that bad how would they meet the SN specs for sludge, deposits, and NOACK.
He didnt state that Castrol is bad but that its been seen to not be good in Toyota engines. I wouldnt use Castrol for a few reasons but its not to say it isnt great oil in the right application (most).
What's so different about Toyota engines than any other aluminum engine?
Originally Posted By: volk06
If that was true how did castrol edge with ti end up 1st in the TEOST when amsoil did their comparison in may. Do you actually have data or is this from "experience" from heresay? Pure [censored] in my opinion. If castrol really were that bad how would they meet the SN specs for sludge, deposits, and NOACK.
He didnt state that Castrol is bad but that its been seen to not be good in Toyota engines. I wouldnt use Castrol for a few reasons but its not to say it isnt great oil in the right application (most).
What's so different about Toyota engines than any other aluminum engine?
Well I ran Castrol green bottle in a I4 Toyota for 200k and never once had an issue. Only time getting onto the engine, closest was a couple times replacing timing belt/water pump. Other than that, it was running good, never add oil between 5k OCs, when I let it go. No external leaks. I ran same oil in a CRX for over 100k. Previous owner was using it, so I continued using it.
Only 2 vehicles I've used Castrol. I think I ran it one season in a mower years ago.
Only 2 vehicles I've used Castrol. I think I ran it one season in a mower years ago.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Any quality synthetic should be good for 10K OCIs. I use M1 oils and have never had an engine issue doing 10K OCIs, and that has included many differant types of engines under various driving, weather, and mileage conditions
I did run Mobil and didn't like the valve train noise. Switched to the current fill and its much better. I do run the HM in my Taco and love it.
Any quality synthetic should be good for 10K OCIs. I use M1 oils and have never had an engine issue doing 10K OCIs, and that has included many differant types of engines under various driving, weather, and mileage conditions
I did run Mobil and didn't like the valve train noise. Switched to the current fill and its much better. I do run the HM in my Taco and love it.
Thanks everyone for the responses. I'll check it out this fall. Depended what Walmart carries.
I hope so. I just switched at 120k to QSUD from dino all that time. I am now going to use the GM OLM - no percentage on mine though. Just gonna run it til it says change it. Then do it again and test that sample so I'm a couple years away from a report I think.
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