1 time wax car after more than 10 years opinion

Messages
193
Location
Georgia
Thread starter
I have Honda Pilot 2007 sliver that has never been wax or polish in more than 10 years. Currently I have buy the voodoo ride polish$.85,griot best show wax $2.35 , meguirs ultimate spray bottle for around $2,zymol cleaner wax for$.85, turtles wax .05,mothers cleaner wax and clay bar kit $5.meguairs black car paste tube wax. Which one is better or good for my car.
 
Messages
12,886
Location
ROCHESTER, NY
Well(I'm not being sarcastic) but, understand that none of us can see the condition of your Pilot. You're asking members to pick a product from a 1000 miles away. It may in fact need more than just waxing/polishing. It may need machining in order to bring back the any shine from that )))HOT((( Georgia sun and > 10 years of neglect. Once the paint is cleaned & compounded then any one of those product may help. But, it's not a one time thing. My buddy had an '07 Pilot that(here in the North East) he didn't particularly wash & wax regularly. And some part of the SUV looked OK and other parts looked terrible and no amount of wax product was going to help. Again, any of those product will help once the paint is brought back to, and you can see the condition of what you have to work with.
 
Messages
594
Location
Southern NY
I got into this business (waxing the car) the last year. After scouring various detailing board, one theme was common, its not which wax you use, its how you prep the car. If the paint is taken the hit if there are swirl marks etc etc. then you fix that first before you ask question about the wax. The detailing board is not exactly kind when you start with the wax. Since I am an apt dweller with the lack of electricity in the parking lot, my options were/are very limited. So instead of focusing on wax, I would focus on prepping the car in the beginning, then choose the wax. FYI, prepping the car without tools is a lot of effort in terms of time and elbow grease.
 
Messages
193
Location
Georgia
Thread starter
Thank you fo details answer I am just trying to get what I can do to get little shine and protection back.
 
Messages
11,930
Location
North Carolina
I would use this polish, wash after, then a wax of your choice. I don't go for a show car shine since i live in the sticks. I just want protection from sap and dirt sticking. So i use this polish and klasse sealant over it. Eagle wax as you dry in between. The klasse is not cheap but really works and lasts a while.You just need the paint clean first. Acetone to get the sap off if you have that. [Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com] [Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com] [Linked Image from images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com]
 
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Messages
24,836
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Nu Finish and your good to go
+1 thorough washing. Then Nu Finish. Careful not to get it on any vinyl.
 
Messages
594
Location
Southern NY
Originally Posted by spasm3
. Acetone to get the sap off if you have that.
Can you really use Acetone? I don't remember the reason but I remember reading not to use acetone or Isopropyl alcohol. I am yet to check what these SAP remover products on the shelf contain. It drives me nuts during the summer.
 
Messages
24,836
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted by MoneyJohn
Originally Posted by spasm3
. Acetone to get the sap off if you have that.
Can you really use Acetone? I don't remember the reason but I remember reading not to use acetone or Isopropyl alcohol. I am yet to check what these SAP remover products on the shelf contain. It drives me nuts during the summer.
I have looked into tree sap. Goo Gone will do the best job and will not damage paint. But I still wash it off after I am done with the stuff. The sooner the better to get off tree sap.
 
Messages
11,930
Location
North Carolina
Originally Posted by MoneyJohn
Originally Posted by spasm3
. Acetone to get the sap off if you have that.
Can you really use Acetone? I don't remember the reason but I remember reading not to use acetone or Isopropyl alcohol. I am yet to check what these SAP remover products on the shelf contain. It drives me nuts during the summer.
I use it. I use to use berryman-b-12, but I worried about how strong the solvent is on that. I have no cars with lacquer, I would not use acetone on anything old with lacquer.
 
Messages
14,979
Location
NE,Ohio
I wouldnt use show wax.. its designed to be very shiny but lasts only a very short time. you want more of a protectant/sealant... that lasts months.. of course as everyone mentioned the results are only as good as the work you put into prep.
 
Messages
56
Location
WI
I would start with the clay bar kit no matter what. A paint job that's been neglected will greatly benefit from a good wash, followed by a diligent clay bar job. You'd be amazed how clean and smooooooth the paint will feel afterward. Then you can thoroughly clean any slippery residue (clay bar treatment requires a lube) with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol on soft microfiber or terry cloth. Now you are ready for the wax of your choice, and I'd suggest a ceramic option.
 
Messages
4,231
Location
South Carolina
Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Nu Finish and your good to go
+1 thorough washing. Then Nu Finish. Careful not to get it on any vinyl.
good point on the vinyl. To this day, it still amazes me, the Nu Finish would be perfect for the OP purpose but whatever :o)
 
Messages
2,975
Location
Florida
I used Nu Finish in the 80's and 90's. I don't use it anymore since there are way better alternatives out there. Your plan sounds solid. I use Optimum Products, Chemical Guys, Adams and Mcguires. Since I am in Florida the sun will cook the finishes. I use a spray wax on a microfiber towel on each wash or every other wash. It takes about 15 minutes to do the whole vehicle. I use Optimum Spray Wax and Optimum No Rinse to clean. I keep my vehicles for a long time so the product needs to be good.
 
Messages
11,930
Location
North Carolina
Thats one reason i like Klasse. You can use it on the vinyl and plastic as long as they are clean. It won't be white on them. Sometimes i have to buff it off the paint again the next day. But the protection is great. I even use it on the front and rear windshield and side windows. EDIT: I should have specified KLasse Sealant. The SILVER bottle. The RED bottle is a cleaner also, and WILL be white on the plastic and trim.
 
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Messages
1,337
Location
texas
Where is that "This thread is worthless without PICS" meme??? LOL. You have probably bought too much stuff for what you are trying to solve. Honda paint is not very hard to correct so I would not go after it with harsh abrasives. If you have clear coat failure, [Linked Image] nothing can fix that except sanding off the failed parts and spraying clear over that body panel. I just did this on my 07 Tacoma. If you dont have clearcoat failure, I would just wash really well, claybar, meguiars ultimate polish with a dual action polisher (porter cable, HF Bauer or equivalent) then any wax you want. Meguiars ultimate wax is a good one readily available at walmart.
 
Messages
193
Location
Georgia
Thread starter
There is little clear coat that is remove but that is no bigger than small pizza size but still the paint is there just clear coat is gone. I agree I buy it too much stuff but all was less than $15 and retail for more than $50.
 
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