08 Nissan Frontier Brake Job - Misc. Questions

[TWG1572]

So, I'm going to replace the front pads and rotors on my Frontier over labor day. Never done it on this truck, and the last vehicle I did was a '96 Chevy truck probably 10 years ago. I had an old mechanic show me how to do that the first time I did them, and then went from there. There were no shims, no greasing various parts, just slip the pads in and call it done. Right or wrong, I guess it worked ok for him and me.

I have a set of Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic brake pads and their premium rotors. Since I live in the land of salt, my OEM ones were really rusted up. Figured I'd give the e-coating on these a whirl.

I've watched enough YouTube videos to get a pretty good grasp on what I need to do mechanically, and I have the service manual. I had a couple questions though I hope someone would be willing to help with.

1) The OEM pads have a shim, and a shim cover. The Service Manual specs molykote between the outer pad and the shim. I don't have the Centric pads yet, but their material says they have shims already attached. So, my assumption is that I would not reinstall the shims or the shim cover. Put the pads in and be good to go. Since this is a different setup than OEM is there a need to put any grease on the piston?

2) My intent was to clean and lube the caliper pins with some synglide. Then I read the manual which specs PBC(?)grease. Is there going to be enough of a difference that I should return the synglide and try to find the PBC stuff?

3) A couple videos showed the people putting some grease on the "ears/tabs" of the brake pads. The service manual doesn't show that, and I have no idea what they put on. Should I grease those, and if so what should I use?

Thanks for the help! I'm feeling pretty good about this job, just some random odds and ends that I wanted to tie up.

 

[SLCraig]

The way I do it, in a condensed simple version:

- Remove and inspect all hardware, clean hub to wheel mating surface with a wire wheel or wire brush.
- When re-installing brake pads I add CRC brake quiet product to the contact area of the caliper fingers and piston to the brake pads.
- When re-assembling the pads into the caliper bracket I remove, clean and re-lube the slide pins with Sil Glyde. (Best results I have gotten so far for slide pins)
- Lastly when I re-install the wheel I add a tiny bit of anti-seize to the mating surface which was previously cleaned.

Done. (Steps do not include pressing back in piston, removing bolts etc, all obvious steps)

 

[DuckRyder]

My google foo seems to indicate that "PBC grease" is Poly Butyl Cuprysil and is high temp silicone...?

I alway use high temperature silicone paste on caliper sliders and moly based paste on the shims. Lately I have only been using OEM brake pads and they generally come with this stuff (Honda) or you can buy it in small packages (Volvo, Mercedes).

From what I can find it looks like the Posi-Quiet pads use the OEM shimming strategy, if they do follow the repair manual instructions, if they don't send them right back and get some that do.

I do generally apply a very small amount of the moly paste to any area of contact on pad ears and so forth.

I cannot stand the "brake quiet" stuff (red, orange or blue paste) all it does is gum up the works and next time you have to do the brakes you spend an hour cleaning it up, just say "NO". If the shimming strategy is proper it is unnecessary anyway.

 

[mechtech2]

Sylglide = synglide? Sylglide is very good.

Don't use additional sauces with shims.
It's good to use a little lube on the 'ears'.
Clean everything really nice, and don't forget the caliper pins and bores. Afterwards, use your Sylglide liberally there.

 

[TWG1572]

Just wanted to report back in that all went well. Thanks for the help! Brakes feel much better now - and no squeeks, groans, or thumps. *knock on wood*.

The outer pad's shims on the Posi-Quiet pads were different than OEM. OEM has an inner shim (on the outer pad) that is slotted but identical in size/shape to the Posi-Quiet. Then there is an outer shim (on the same outer pad) that is different. The moly paste oozed through the inner shim to the outer. I just went with the new pads/shim.

The OEM setup only had a spring? (V shaped wire under pressure) between the lower part of the inner and outer pads. My parts came with one for the top and bottom, so I put it on both. I didn't see where the top one could hurt, and might help. Hope that wasn't a mistake?