06 Tacoma, two new issues

[AJB0009]

06 Tacoma, 2.7L, 4-speed auto, 2WD, X-cab, bone stock.
I bought used Jan of 20 with 111k miles on it.150k miles now.
I have just done general preventative maintenance, no break-downs or issues yet. Fluid changes, filters, spark plugs, front brakes, etc.
I don't drive it very often, my daughter usually does. I drove it the other day and noticed two things that seem to have started together.
When taking off from a stop, or slowing to a stop; say from 0-5 MPH and 5-0 MPH, it feels like you are driving on a wash-board.
The second thing is when cruising at highway speed, it sounds a little like a jet engine; sort of a higher pitch whine.
Has anyone experienced these? Something I should be looking for? Thoughts?

 

[Delta]

For the wash-board thing you describe, check the u-joints and carrier bearing. Common wear items on 2nd gen Tacoma's. The slip joint also can get seized as well. If they're bad, OEM or Spicer units are the best bet.

 

[D60]

Agree with @Delta

Also apparently sticky brake calipers can cause the washboard symptoms, too, but I'm not aware of this being common on Toyotas.

Other obvious things could be tires or loose lugnuts, but I'd expect it to only grow worse with more speed.

If it only happens when turning a corner, consider friction modifier in the rear diff, but I don't know how likely 2wd was to get an LSD? I've never touched a 2wd Taco here in snow country.....

 

[Dave1027]

My '07 Tacoma just turned over 180k miles... and I'm still on the original brakes!!! Talk about longevity!

 

[Delta]

Agree with @Delta

Also apparently sticky brake calipers can cause the washboard symptoms, too, but I'm not aware of this being common on Toyotas.

Other obvious things could be tires or loose lugnuts, but I'd expect it to only grow worse with more speed.

If it only happens when turning a corner, consider friction modifier in the rear diff, but I don't know how likely 2wd was to get an LSD? I've never touched a 2wd Taco here in snow country.....

IIRC only TRD Sport PreRunners (and 4WD) get an LSD, and that was up until '09 where it all switched to an ABS actuated "LSD simulation" no mechanical.

 

[AJB0009]

Yup, just an open rear diff.
~
The carrier bearing makes sense. At first, I was fearing a torque converter issue. I didn't want to share any of my thoughts up front, wanted to hear what everyone else said.
~
One other small symptom that I sort of dismissed and forgot about: when backing up in the driveway it would make a swoosh, swoosh, swoosh sound. That would seem to fit the carrier bearing theory as well.

 

[Delta]

Yup, just an open rear diff.
~
The carrier bearing makes sense. At first, I was fearing a torque converter issue. I didn't want to share any of my thoughts up front, wanted to hear what everyone else said.
~
One other small symptom that I sort of dismissed and forgot about: when backing up in the driveway it would make a swoosh, swoosh, swoosh sound. That would seem to fit the carrier bearing theory as well.

I don't think the 4 speed automatic in the 4 cylinders suffers the torque converter issues of the V6's 5 speed auto.

The carrier bearing will have some play, but see if it feels excessive. If it's the original one, it might be on borrowed time anyways.

 

[AJB0009]

I don't think the 4 speed automatic in the 4 cylinders suffers the torque converter issues of the V6's 5 speed auto.

The carrier bearing will have some play, but see if it feels excessive. If it's the original one, it might be on borrowed time anyways.

I wonder if replacement is straightforward. Or is there a place to get a procedure, torque specs, etc.?

 

[Delta]

I wonder if replacement is straightforward. Or is there a place to get a procedure, torque specs, etc.?

This is for a 4WD unit, but is probably very similar to 2Wd

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/

 

[benjamming]

This is for a 4WD unit, but is probably very similar to 2Wd

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/

That's a 1st generation 2003 model so would there be a decent amount of difference?

 

[Delta]

That's a 1st generation 2003 model so would there be a decent amount of difference?

Whoops, I totally flubbed that up. Let me do some more digging. My bad.

 

[michaelluscher]

Here's an online version of the FSM
Go up a few menus if it's a prerunner

https://charm.li/Toyota Truck/2003/Tacoma 2WD L4-2.4L (2RZ-FE)/Repair and Diagnosis/

 

[Variant_S]

The second thing is when cruising at highway speed, it sounds a little like a jet engine; sort of a higher pitch whine.
Has anyone experienced these? Something I should be looking for? Thoughts?

Does the pitch of the whine change with the speed of the truck? Could this be a wheel bearing?

 

[Delta]

Does the pitch of the whine change with the speed of the truck? Could this be a wheel bearing?

You know now that I'm thinking about it when I had a rear wheel bearing go bad on my 2009 Tacoma it made a very similar noise. Started out around 45 and progressively got worse and a larger speed range. Biggest telltale sign was gear oil in that drum. Seal let loose and took out the bearing.

 

[D60]

If it is the carrier bearing, go OEM only

ANY of the brands at O'Reilly, AutoZone et al are horrible. The rubber breaks down ‐‐ like tears apart and just goes MISSING -‐ within a couple years or less

 

[Delta]

If it is the carrier bearing, go OEM only

ANY of the brands at O'Reilly, AutoZone et al are horrible. The rubber breaks down ‐‐ like tears apart and just goes MISSING -‐ within a couple years or less

Yup, 100% agree. Spicer is the OEM manufacturer and can be bought cheaper than the dealer.

 

[D60]

On the first gen carrier bearings you were supposed to torque the big nut, then back it off and torque again to a lesser value.

However, I don't know if '05+ is even the same design. Point being, I'd find the proper procedure.

I recently did an '08 Tundra carrier bearing and opted to order a 1/2" drive socket in 30mm after that job. I muddled through with 3/4" dr but it was not ideal:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/new-tool-thread.328515/page-211#post-6884657

Looking at RA, it appears an '09 Taco and '08 Tundra use the same carrier bearing, so a 30mm socket may be required. (edit: I should have looked at '06, not '09, as OP clearly stated '06)

However we don't know OP's symptoms are from the carrier bearing, obviously

 

[AJB0009]

This morning, I crawled underneath my truck. All the U-joints seem very solid, I could not budge any of them at all. As for the carrier bearing when I pushed and pulled on it, it would move a little, but did not seem excessive to me. When I really reefed on it, I could get a faint bang noise out of it.
I swung by a local, independent repair shop. I have gotten to know the owner pretty well over the last few years. He has been good to me too, so I wanted to get a price from him to see what he would charge me to install a new bearing. He had his best driveline guy check it out. He put it up on the lift and pushed and pulled and looked around. He took it for a drive then. He is leaning more towards an issue in the rear diff. He says that because he does not see or feel anything wrong with the carrier bearing. He also says that when on a smooth road and you let off when doing 55, the way it whines to him sounds like a rear diff. He recommended I drive it for a while yet and let it get worse, so that we can tell for sure where the issue is.
Thoughts on all that? Are rear diff failures a thing on these trucks?
I of course don't know anything about the first 14 years and 111k miles of this trucks life. There has not been any towing or hauling the last 5 years, 40k miles.
May of 23, at 135k miles, I changed the rear diff oil. I put regular Valvoline 80W90 back in, nearly a full gallon. The fluid that came out looked fine to me.
I appreciate everyone's input on this.

 

[D60]

This morning, I crawled underneath my truck. All the U-joints seem very solid, I could not budge any of them at all. As for the carrier bearing when I pushed and pulled on it, it would move a little, but did not seem excessive to me. When I really reefed on it, I could get a faint bang noise out of it.
I swung by a local, independent repair shop. I have gotten to know the owner pretty well over the last few years. He has been good to me too, so I wanted to get a price from him to see what he would charge me to install a new bearing. He had his best driveline guy check it out. He put it up on the lift and pushed and pulled and looked around. He took it for a drive then. He is leaning more towards an issue in the rear diff. He says that because he does not see or feel anything wrong with the carrier bearing. He also says that when on a smooth road and you let off when doing 55, the way it whines to him sounds like a rear diff. He recommended I drive it for a while yet and let it get worse, so that we can tell for sure where the issue is.
Thoughts on all that? Are rear diff failures a thing on these trucks?
I of course don't know anything about the first 14 years and 111k miles of this trucks life. There has not been any towing or hauling the last 5 years, 40k miles.
May of 23, at 135k miles, I changed the rear diff oil. I put regular Valvoline 80W90 back in, nearly a full gallon. The fluid that came out looked fine to me.
I appreciate everyone's input on this.

Good for you for having it checked our. This usually beats the parts cannon.

Sounds early for a rear diff failure, but maybe.

I personally think you were fine with Valvoline 80W90. And driving more to see if it gets worse doesn't strike me as unreasonable. It's unlikely to suddenly grenade and more likely to gradually get noisier.

Axle wrap can also cause your symptoms. Has anyone done a quick inspection for broken leafs, u-bolts, spring plates etc?

 

[AJB0009]

Good for you for having it checked our. This usually beats the parts cannon.

Sounds early for a rear diff failure, but maybe.

I personally think you were fine with Valvoline 80W90. And driving more to see if it gets worse doesn't strike me as unreasonable. It's unlikely to suddenly grenade and more likely to gradually get noisier.

Axle wrap can also cause your symptoms. Has anyone done a quick inspection for broken leafs, u-bolts, spring plates etc?

I did lay under there again and poke around. I did not see anything out of the ordinary at all.
I did notice one thing, which I had honestly forgotten about. A while ago I had to replace one tire. I debated back and forth about replacing all four, but I waited a little while as the others were okay yet. After some time, I went ahead and replaced the other three tires. Two different sizes make their way to the rear axle. For about 6k miles now, I have a tire on one side with 6/32" of tread and one on the other side with 9/32" of tread.
Surely that is not enough of a difference to cause any damage in that amount of time, is it?
Again, it is a base model with open rear diff. Zero towing or hauling.