01 Tahoe

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mjk

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I am trying to find out if the 01 Tahoe has any concerns that other adjacent years did not share -specifically transmission issues.

Scheduled to look at an extremely low mile (68k) Tahoe in the next day or 2.

Feedback is appreciated.
 
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Yes they have a huge problem...the gas mileage! 15.7 mpg average. You getting the 4.8 or 5.3?

https://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/tahoe/2001

As far as maintenance and reliability they are fine. The 4L60-E is a 200k transmission easy. Will work on anything but use Maxlife dex/merc ATF if you can,they love that stuff.

You need 6 quarts for an oil and filter change, so you'll be buying a jug plus an additional quart.

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=2001+CHEVROLET TRUCKS+TAHOE+T
 
4L60E has been a very good transmission IMO. The company I work for has a fleet of Chevy Expresses and even though they are mostly approaching 200k, overloaded and my guess is mostly abused, we haven't had one transmission failure.
 
I keep reading mixed messages about the 4l60, seems like some die early. Enough so that rebuilds are cheap. Yet plenty seem to get great service life. I wonder if the tow package ones live longer, as they get larger Trans coolers.

4.8 or 5.3, either is good, but the 5.3 is better.
wink.gif
 
Not worried about MPG. It is a weekend hunting/fishing vehicle. Won't be putting on more than 6k year. If you like to play, you have to pay.
 
Sounds like a good vehicle purchase. I also don't give a rats tail about fuel economy. Pay to play and live life.
 
we have two of them in fleet service at work. very reliable we have put a fuel pump in the 01 at 166,000 miles and a water pump at 111,000 miles but other than brakes that seems to be it.
we have the towing package on both!
 
The drive trains are solid. The biggest thing to look for in my opinion is electrical issues. Also remember that the vehicle is 13 years old, and with only 68k miles it was sitting a lot.
 
Took it for a ride tonight. It pretty much is as you'd expect, with 1 issue.

Rear windows don't work. More specifics:

whether using the switches on the rear doors, or activating switches at driver's door, windows won't roll down. No sounds from window regulators running, so I am going to assume I have a wiring issue somewhere, or a master switch issue? Ran it by my mechanic on the phone, and that is what he offered.

I thought it would be odd to have both regulators go out at the same time, and not hearing any noises pretty much confirmed it is something else.

In going through the vehicle's history, it was pretty much the wife's grocery getter. In fact, he believes there never has been a passenger in the rear seats; thus the rear windows may have never even been used.

Thoughts?
 
GM has typically had power window issues in that year range, with many different problems

My brother's 1999 Buick Century had all 4 go out due to some wiring issue

My mom's 2003 Buick Rendezvous had the master control window switch go out causing some windows to not work, AND it had 3 of the windows fall into the doors because the plastic clips that hold the window broke.

My grandma's 2002 Chevy Trailblazer has the LR window regulator making a little noise, but not dead yet

My dad's 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD had the LR window regulator cables start binding and he had to manually get it to go up and then just unplugged the motor

My grandfather's 1994 Cadillac Seville had a driver's window motor die
 
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Well, I pulled the plug, and bought the Tahoe (68k).

I'll have my mechanic look at the rear windows down the road. I am pretty sure, after talking to him on the phone, it is a wiring or switch issue rather than the actual regulators. Time will tell, I guess. It's been nothing more than a grocery getter it's entire life. Never has towed anything.

I won't even go down the 'what oil?' road. For my present purposes (is is only 1k into present change), it will either be Mobil Super 5k or PYB. The 5.3 isn't picky.
 
A couple of questions....

Going to run some F.I. cleaner thru it, since it has been a 'short tripper' a majority of its life. Techron or Gumout Regane?

Original plugs are in it, going to take care of that in the next few months. Have read that NGK is actually making the AC Delco Iridium plugs for the early 2000s 5.3. Should I just get the NGK equivalent, or go AC Delco? I know the gap has now changed from .060 to .040 on these new plugs.

Does this mean that this engine does not have a Platinum tipped plug option?

Will be flushing the coolant as well. Is there a preferred brand name of Dexcool that you have faith in? Or just use whatever is on sale?

Feedback appreciated.
 
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I wouldn't run the fuel cleaner without changing the fuel filter, otherwise you'll be cleaning out the filter and sending all that gunk into the engine.
 
Techron vs. Regane: whatever you can get more easily.

Plugs: AC Delco only.

My 5.3L had terrible piston slap with 5w30 in various flavors. M1 0W-40 was a bit less noisy and VV ML 10W-40 made it very quiet.

Be VERY careful about cleaning the engine. The valley is not sealed and you will damage the knock sensors that live there.
 
Originally Posted By: mjk
A couple of questions....

Going to run some F.I. cleaner thru it, since it has been a 'short tripper' a majority of its life. Techron or Gumout Regane?

Original plugs are in it, going to take care of that in the next few months. Have read that NGK is actually making the AC Delco Iridium plugs for the early 2000s 5.3. Should I just get the NGK equivalent, or go AC Delco? I know the gap has now changed from .060 to .040 on these new plugs.

Does this mean that this engine does not have a Platinum tipped plug option?

Will be flushing the coolant as well. Is there a preferred brand name of Dexcool that you have faith in? Or just use whatever is on sale?

Feedback appreciated.


FYI, that year Tahoe should have drain plugs on both the transmission and rear differential. (In your location, I would make sure the diff fill plug will break loose before trying the bottom one. The trans plug can also be tricky. The head has a really short shoulder, so it is prone to stripping if you aren't careful.)

My '01 Silverado 5.3 had NGK plugs stock, #PZTR5A-15. I don't have any notes about additional manufacturer markings on the AC Delco 41-985 replacements. They are a fine-wire iridium plug.

I flushed a few times with Prestone Dex-Cool. The system is still clean. I did replace the water pump at 80,000 miles. The gaskets were bad, but I'm not sure the pump itself was actually leaking.

The fuel filter is a replaceable unit on the driver's side frame rail, at least on the pickup. The lines have O-rings that don't come with the filters. I have changed the filter twice without new O-rings, but I want to change them with the next filter. Use Techron or Regane based on price. You might find Regane on closeout at Home Depot if your local BITOGERs haven't already snatched it all up.

The longer PF59 oil filter (out of production) crosses to a Wix 51522.
 
The OE Platinum spark plugs are gapped .060 and the new Iridium spark plugs are gapped .040.

I have Denso Long Life Iridiums in my 5.3L with MSD Super Conductor plug wires (overkill but I know I'm getting a good quality wireset.)

Intake manifold gaskets commonly go bad causing rough idle in cooler weather or throwing P0171, P0174 lean codes. GM sells a improved Green gasket design or Felpro's PermaDry gaskets.
 
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am trying to find out if the 01 Tahoe has any concerns that other adjacent years did not share -specifically transmission issues.

Scheduled to look at an extremely low mile (68k) Tahoe in the next day or 2.

Feedback is appreciated.


From what I have heard, the weakest link in the 4L60E is the sun shell (also called the reaction shell) failing. If this fails, I think you lose 2nd, 4th and reverse with no warning. Replacement requires that the trans be torn down. Aftermarket replacements have been engineered to be much stronger. Avoid shifting from reverse to drive/drve to reverse with the vehicle rolling as that apparently puts a lot of stress on it.

Some have also reported issues with the boost valve in the valve body wearing out causing soft clutch apply pressures which can eventually lead to failure. There are kits available to solve this problem. Solenoids can also fail as can the valve body separator plate (steel check ball eventually wears the plate and can stick.) Problems like these are not unique to the 4L60E.

It sounds like you got a cream puff. I would change the fluid with fresh Dexron III (or maybe Dex VI with a cooler line fluid exchange), change the filter and add a nice stacked plate transmission cooler if it does not already have one. I'll bet you will get many miles out of it that way. My 2000 GMC Sierra has the original 4L60E with 200K on it and it still shifts just fine.

Andrew S.
 
Originally Posted By: dnastrau
Originally Posted By: mjk
I am trying to find out if the 01 Tahoe has any concerns that other adjacent years did not share -specifically transmission issues.

Scheduled to look at an extremely low mile (68k) Tahoe in the next day or 2.

Feedback is appreciated.


From what I have heard, the weakest link in the 4L60E is the sun shell (also called the reaction shell) failing. If this fails, I think you lose 2nd, 4th and reverse with no warning. Replacement requires that the trans be torn down. Aftermarket replacements have been engineered to be much stronger. Avoid shifting from reverse to drive/drve to reverse with the vehicle rolling as that apparently puts a lot of stress on it.


Andrew S.



Good point. I've always made it a habit of coming to a complete stop, when shifting, in all my vehicles...
 
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