Bruceblend 0w-20LITE 4800 2.5 Jeep Dyson

Gary Allan · Mar 20, 2008

Here's my first successful, unadulterated, Bruceblend UOA. Calamity confounded other attempts.

Here's the VOA of Bruce's formula.

Vis 100 6.8
Vis 40 33.3
VI 160
ZN 1801
Moly 1801
Phos 1703
CA 3297
FE 3

TBN 9.26

Here's Terry's results. One qualification. Terry stated that this was an AA (atomic absorption) process which allegedly reads material in the 10um+/- range. FWIW

This test/last test
Oil: 0w-20LITE/RTS 5w-40
Miles on unit: 70585/65725
Miles on oil: 4860/9600
Make up oil: ZERO/ZERO
Filter: M1/Purolator PP

Elements
Fe 41/78
Cu 11/15
Tin 14/0 (probably an incidental add in the 5 gallon batch)
Pb 0/1
Cr 2/4
Nckl 2/4
Al 10/9

Additives (Move over Joe Gibbs Racing - there's a new blender in town = Yee-Ha!)

Cal 2641/2482
Mag 43/27
Zinc 1807/1546
Phos 1507/1353
Bar 25/1
Moly 1698/19

Contaminants

Silicon 26/24 (I think I have a manifold leak)
Sodium 34/22
Boron 3/1

Visc in Cst
40C 40.8/117.6
100C 7.2/15.5

TAN 3.81/6.02
Flash 280/415
OXID 55/38
NITR 14/20
KF H2O 517/1146
TBN 3.5/2.6
FUEL 1.64/.03
VI 153/138
Sulfate byproducts 59/47

Well, I've still got dirt infiltration issues ..but it's obvious that low visc oil won't grenade an older designed engine. Still ZERO bearing wear ..and I'd attribute the rest to fuel and dirt infiltration. I'll be really examining the intake manifold. There are no apparent leaks in the plumbing, but the Al tends to say that there is. This could be the source of the fuel too. I'm thinking one LEAN cylinder is making the others RICH to balance out the O2 readings.

I'd like to thank Bruce for making this oil available to me. I'd be willing to go even thinner. Aside from volatility issues (which I haven't a clue on whether that would be an issue at all), I really don't see the bottom here. If a

As always, your comments (jeers or cheers) are always welcome.

Steelhead · Mar 20, 2008

a BITOG hero, gone where no man in an internal combustion engine has gone before.

who said "you'll blown your engine up and shoot your eye out with anything thinner than 10w30"

0w5 Bring It On.

MarkC · Mar 20, 2008

Your Fe is still up there a bit, huh?
This oil has a lot of Moly!

Gary Allan · Mar 20, 2008

Originally Posted By: MarkC
Your Fe is still up there a bit, huh?

Fuel and airborne abrasives, I suspect.

Gary Allan · Mar 20, 2008

Quote:
0w5 Bring It On.

If he blends it ..they will come.

REDDOG · Mar 20, 2008

Gary,

What kind of driving conditions? Any oil consumption?

Are there any plans of this oil becoming available? What is the base oil?

Thanks for posting, this is great!

REDDOG

P.S. Those 40C specs Rock!

bruce381 · Mar 20, 2008

Gary Tin was in original blend is a additive.
bruce

Nederlander75 · Mar 20, 2008

Hey Gary,

What was your MPG variance from the previous sample to this?

buster · Mar 20, 2008

Awesome, thanks for doing this.

Gary Allan · Mar 21, 2008

Originally Posted By: REDDOG
Gary,

What kind of driving conditions? Any oil consumption?

Are there any plans of this oil becoming available? What is the base oil?

Thanks for posting, this is great!

REDDOG

P.S. Those 40C specs Rock!

Driving conditions were a mixed bag. I tried to keep it to my wife's commute of 50+ miles per day, mostly at highway speeds (65+/-) ..but the daughter came home for a bit from college ..some short trip usage.

This oil will probably never be available commercially. You can find similar products from Joe Gibbs Racing or RedLine in the racing oils ..but they won't be quite the same. It's way too additized to get any certs and is an experimental custom blend from bruce381. He basically said that if I was crazy enough to run it, he was willing to make a pail of the stuff up.

No consumption at all.

I had little doubt about this oil. I would go even thinner ..way thinner. I think that we're about at the bottom end floor of the viable base stocks.

Gary Allan · Mar 21, 2008

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Hey Gary,

What was your MPG variance from the previous sample to this?

This oil showed sensible gains in fuel economy over 5w-40. The two jeeps (this 2.5 auto, the other 4.0 5 speed) basically average the same fuel economy normally. In like usage they get about 18+/-. The 2.5, with auto, has substantial penalties for warmup. If used exclusively on highway, or mostly longer trip service, it gives my wife one more day before needing fuel over the 4.0 5 speed jeep (5 days as opposed to 4). Short trip usage confounds getting above the 17-18 averages, however.

Keep in mind, that in exclusively short trip/urban usage, this engine, in this chassis, can get as low as 13+/- mpg. It's in V8 range.

I've got enough of this product for another OCI (I think). I hope to lock down the dirt ingestion issue and see if I can get some decent highway numbers. Driven conservatively on the rolling terrain of PA, I get around 20 mpg in a one warmup per 20 mile commute environment.

oilyriser · Mar 21, 2008

Is this without adding any fancy oil coolers, like in the lost van?

Zaedock · Mar 21, 2008

Looks good, Gary. Thin is in, although I'm not quite ready to use a 20wt in the YJ 2.5L trail rig just yet. The thin oil will leak out faster when I roll over.

Besides, I have plenty of Delo SAE30 from that .99/gal sale.

Still, with results like that, I may consider a 20wt(probably Supertech) for winter use, especially in my 4.0L XJ driver.

Tempest · Mar 21, 2008

Quote:
Still, with results like that, I may consider a 20wt(probably Supertech) for winter use, especially in my 4.0L XJ driver.

Be aware that this is no ordinary 20Wt. This has a super heavy duty add pack not found in OTC oils.

Drew99GT · Mar 21, 2008

Darn Gary, you need a set of these for the Jeep!

This oil pretty much creamed RTS. TBN is still 9?

Gary Allan · Mar 21, 2008

oilyriser: Mopar sandwich coolant

il cooler. Almost identical to one still available on the Grand Caravan w/HD towing package. It keeps the gauge locked in @ 195F unless you're idling in traffic, so I suspect the oil is @ 195F when the vehicle is fully warm and in motion.

Zeadock: Yes, Tempest is correct. Do not attempt this at home at least without thinking it out a bit. I have used OTC 5w-20 in the 4.0 w/o grenading the engine, but that has a high volume oil pump. It basically makes the two engines appear to have like operating pressures. I really think that I could run baby oil if it had the right additives. So, factor your pressure at temp. If you're pegging the (sorta) 60 psi mark with a 30 weight, then you've "got room" for a thinner oil. Then it comes down to, imo, time in service for the sacrificial additives.

..but.. I don't think any ONE OCI is going to effect the long term life of your engine regardless of the blend.

Quote:
This oil pretty much creamed RTS. TBN is still 9?

This took a hit to 3.2 TBN over the 5k+/-. I've come to appreciate TAN numbers over TBN. RTS did its best. The issues beat it up pretty bad. They were very long OCI in a time weighted 1+ years.

Next: I think Bruceblend® 0w-True10 may be a possibility.

Proud user of Bruceblend® 0w oils

Greaser · Mar 21, 2008

Blackstone says average Fe for the 4.0L engine is 26 ppm at 4400 mile changes. Yours is 41 ppm and you think your valvetrain/cylinder wear is good?Mine was 7 ppm at this mileage using a 40W oil.Tin is bearing wear at 14 ppm the norm is 4 ppm.How is the thinner better?

Greaser · Mar 21, 2008

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post996138

Gary Allan · Mar 21, 2008

My Fe isn't due to the oil. It's due to dirt ingestion and fuel. There's more than enough ZDDP (and everything else) to handle valve train wear in the non-pressure lubed environments ..and I've got ZERO bearing wear.

Look at RTS. Now admittedly it's a much longer OCI in mileage, but it really shows little advantage in metal indicators. No matter how I reason it (either on a static elemental level - or per mile accumulation) it appears to be a wash between the two oils.

..but we'll find out. I'll REALLY find that air leak and eliminate that antagonist agent from the equation. I'll pull all the plumbing and play sphincter police with it on the cavity search. Once that's out of the picture, I think that the fuel will come in line too.

I think that your results with XD-3 is much like my results with D1. I don't think that viscosity is the key here. I think that there is something unique to these formulations. D1 is miles ahead in comparative UOA over like conditions with RTS ..yet both are HDEOs and both are 5w-40.

There's also the notion, at least in the case of my 4.0, that my particular wear profile is higher than others. Some get just fine results with dino 10w30 Havoline, while I can't match it with RTS ..under mostly highway usage.

Greaser · Mar 21, 2008

Something is wrong somewhere Gary.Sodium at 34 seems high also 10ppm was the norm.This vehicle may have other problems. Oil experiments should not be in it's future unless you fix them or you don't care about longevity.What did Terry say?

Bruceblend 0w-20LITE 4800 2.5 Jeep Dyson

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