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Yeah for right now it's an experiment.... wanted to see how far I could go with the oil, but it looks like my filters are the first thing to end this first run, not the oil quality. Knowing now how the oil is holding up, I will do far fewer UOA samples on the next go-round... maybe just at 15K...

I always like buying American-made filters when I can, and that's why Wix and Purolator have always been my go-to filters. Is Wix still a good product? Are there any other good US-made filters out there that I'm not aware of? Thanks, Ryan

I have been buying Purolator products for a long time, they used to be really good, but now I'm hearing a lot of negative stuff about their more recent products..... can anyone fill me in on this??

Whoops...… I posted the wrong part number. I am using the L40084 filter.

I have been doing UOA from Blackstone every 3,000 miles.... every single time I'm getting nothing but a big thumbs up from them and saying to keep going. I'm using the Amsoil Extended Life 0W-30 oil.

Yes, I am running the Purolator as my full flow filter, and the Amsoil as the bypass filter. the Purolator is the "classic" type (that's what they call it - it's painted white). Mileage is not my concern... it's on a 2.3L accord that runs quite clean, and both filters are massive (The purolator...

How long can a quality filter (i.e. Purolator in my case) SAFELY be used before the filter media runs a significant risk of disintegrating? I am running a bypass filtration system and have so far gone about 2 years/19,000 miles; everything is great so far, but I am becoming weary of the filters...

I have about 19,000 miles and 2 years on my current oil and filters (purolator full flow, Amsoil EaBP). I am starting to become weary of one or both of the filters coming apart and destroying the engine, but I really don't know if this is a valid concern or not... it just seems within the realm...

Yes, I plan on doing a UOA just before switching to this setup. It will be @ 6k miles on Mobil1 5W-30, so I will definitely be comfortable as long as I remain under those levels.

Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder For what reason? The filtered oil is returned to the engine and mixing in the sump rather than the filter mount. Same result. You're over-thinking this. That's not entirely true, because in a normal dual remote bypass setup, the bypass filter has a...

Here is a rough sketch...

After a lot of planning, I finally ordered all the components for my bypass kit. It is kind of a hybrid between a dual remote system, and a single bypass system. I bought a filter adapter, which feeds a supply and return hose to a dual remote filter mount. The difference here is that I am...

Originally Posted By: Kawiguy454 ^^ Those guys nailed it. Think of the added filters as being in paralell with the engines flow paths. As you lower the filters restrictions more volume diverts thru them and less thru the motor. If you were to put the paralell filters in Series with the motor...

...Although I could be wrong. As the other poster claimed, the bypass valve within the bypass filter would prevent damage to its filter media if it had too much DP. I was not aware that the EaBP filters had an internal bypass. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Thanks!

I am doing this to not use so much oil as a consumer (i.e. to be more green), and also I'm an engineer and the whole thing just interests me. I realize that at best I will break even on the cost, after I include all the hardware, the expensive filters, and the UOA's. At the end of the day, if...

All, Overall this is a question, but I am throwing my logic/understanding in here as well. I am still trying to be sure of myself before I go forward in making my own bypass setup. Some general facts: 1. There is pressure drop across the filter and other restrictions in the oiling system...

I think he's wanting to dump the bypass return onto the timing chain area-which is probably where it would do the most good. Actually the only reason that I'm picking the valve cover at this time is because it's basically either that or the oil pan, and whichever one I pick will have to be...

Yes, you are correct, the 3/4-16 threads are on the remote mounts that I am seeing. However, I have not come across one that comes with the 1" threads. If you know where to find any, please let me know!

I am making a single remote system for a 1998 Accord 2.3L, and the current plan is to install a T between the block and the oil pressure switch, and then dump back through the valve cover (It is easier to remove than the oil pan, and I want to take it off for other reasons already). I plan to...