Recent content by Ty Williams

Took at a look at the 5w20 they offer now vs a several year old spec sheet. HTHS has dropped from 3.3 to 3.0. Obviously, they've changed something important.

When you run it for 10k or 15k in hard-use vehicles, the extended service interval makes it as cheap as parts store oil and still has higher HTHS, etc. If you're a numpty who's still changing oil every 3k, yeah it doesn't make any sense.

I went to Redline's website today to look up a part number and noticed it had changed. This caused me to find out that Redline was bought by Phillips 66 when I wasn't looking. Checking the specs against an older data sheet I had, the HTHS for the 5w20 has dropped from 3.3 to 3.0 (which is a...

Can you buy Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5w30 in the US? This oil is on Mobil's website and supposedly sold in the US. However, I can't find anyone actually selling it. Does anyone know where I can get some here in the US (Central Ohio)?

Title really says it all. New engine calls for an oil that meets API CH or better and ACEA E3 or better. Given operating temperature ranges, I'd like to use a 0w30 or 0w40. Googling this is getting nowhere fast due to the "or better" aspect of that. Search for ACEA E3 and you don't get E4, etc...

Originally Posted By: bluesubie The n/a EJ's are easy on oil but peace of mind is priceless. I'm actually working my way around to the idea that the 2.5L NAs aren't very easy on oil. They're easy to get good UOAs out of, but that's not exactly the same thing. I've got 5 of the 2.5L NAs (not all...

Originally Posted By: dnewton3 Further, there is no "single most important characteristic" of oil. HTHS is the characteristic most highly correlated to wear when measured properly (meaning before and after mass of the parts). Originally Posted By: dnewton3 You have no idea where those limits...

I, and quite a lot of other people, would argue that HTHS is the single most important characteristic of an oil. I'm not willing to compromise on HTHS just to cheap out. The engine is liquid cooled but there's no direct cooling for the oil. Sustained oil temps over 230F are normal in...

I am not running Redline to try to save money. Even if it's more expensive, it still has desirable qualities. If I ran a good quality dino, yes, it'd be cheaper, but I'd have a considerably lower HTHS and MUCH lower tolerance for heat. Both of those are critical. Plus, I pay for Redline what...

Silicon explained! It's in the Redline: A little worrysome that Blackstone didn't make that connection.

Originally Posted By: bluesubie TAN is Total Acid Number. Here's a recent thread about it: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2428192#Post2428192 Are you running an OEM air filter? At what mileage did you add the make-up oil? Meh, you don't need to have oil...

Originally Posted By: Artem That said, with 2 quarts of top off oil added, i think the TBN is pretty low. With no top off, it would be shot, so the addition of oil is what's keeping this lube active. 2nd quart was added at least a month before the sample was taken. Redline is also well known...

Originally Posted By: dparm I think the 10k OCI is the sweet spot. Still gives you a margin of error just in case you have some 'hard miles' or whatever. I'd want to see a TAN for a 10k OCI, though. As for the silicon, was the motor ever opened up or serviced? Think liquid gasket/RTV-type...

Redline 5w30 in a 2006 Saab 92x 2.5i, which is actually a re-badged Subaru Impreza 2.5i. 10,000 mile OCI. Car is a commuter, driven 6 days a week or more. Daily commute is 30min each way with no traffic. Typically sees heavy stop-and-go traffic on the way home, making that leg of the trip take...

Hmm, I'm sure it wasn't the T6, the timing wasn't right. That oil JUST showed up around here. I think there was a possibility she was using the old Rotella 5w30 at one point. I'll have to ask.