just ordered valve cover gasket set(including valve stem gasckets). Will be a little project to do in mid july. It will be pain in the @ss to get to the back cover. But on the way there will remove throtle and iacv and clen them really good, along with spark plugs and will do Kreen piston soak. Also if there is sludge, clean out manually all what I can, and clean out valve covers, remove that stupid oil screen in the filler. That should help with start up puffs.
[quote]including valve stem gasckets). Will be a little project to do in mid july [/quote
Valve stem seals are more than a little project on this engine. The cams need to come out and the piston(s) held at TDC while the valve spring and seal is removed or the valves will drop down. You will need some special tools to compress the springs to remove/replace the keepers.
Nylon rope down the plug hole while bringing the piston up while rotating by hand is an easy way to hold the valves up while doing the job. The timing belt will need to be removed and reinstalled, re timing the cams will need to be done upon reassembly.
For a mechanic its a PITA on this engine for the average DIY its going to be very difficult.
Plug tube seals are done with the valve cover.
ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.
Changed filter yesterday, and recorded new video. I'm not totally sure, but I think it's little louder. Maybe because I topped off with 5w20? Or maybe I haven"t wait enough for car to heat up. Anyway we will see what is under covers in couple weeks. Also ordered Lubro Moly Engine Detox from Australia, which is recommended over their Proline Flush....next experiment.
^Could you have someone hold the throttle to 2,500 RPM or so for you, and try one at a time removing the coil on plug to each cylinder and see if that changes the ticking sound? You may be able to tell a difference if one cylinder is having an issue or not, but finding a smoother sound at throttle if a cylinder with some sort of mechanical issue is present no longer is firing for a few seconds(during the RPM hold through each cylinder).
It almost sounds like noisy valve-train only(noisy lifter?), perhaps from caked on gunk, but I also faintly hear what may/may not be what sounds like a bearing? Someone more experienced can help. If you do remove the plugs with help, it may shock you. Try to only hold the very outside of the coil on...to my knowledge it is safer than pulling a spark plug wire this way. It's a 'cheap' test to identify which cylinder may be going. If the sound changes drastically, it may be worth it to have the oil pan pulled and the bearings compared/inspected; perhaps replaced.
This would give you a chance to clean the bottom end and hopefully save you from oil starvation at the pickup screen OR the possibility(worst case) of a bearing being spun and excessive engine wear beginning prior to the failure of the bearing which would require a rebuild more than likely.
1992 Civic VX 285k+ Waiting on winter OCI to sample first time post-HG job 18 months ago..
Well, I just finished with my summer class(it was pita), so next days off, will pop it open. It will be around 750 miles on first Kreen application. Should I get intake gasket too, or I will be fine to reuse it? Probably will clean throttle body, will try to get AICV and clean it, meanwhile get out spark plugs and clean them and put some kreen into wells to soak.
I know there is some noise from belts, and pulleys(looks like one is not lubricated good). Also there is ticking sound,like a clock, if I rev it up more than I did, it just gone, all sounds. Ticking doesn't really change if I rev it a little like on video. It doesn't bug we at all. I can't hear it from inside,and I beliave it is compleatly gone after oils heats up good(highway drive for a while),just pulley sqeak stays a little.
little obervation: so far I have driven close to 700 miles with kreen. Car seamed so smoke more than usual. I thought it was because of 30 weight oil and kreen burning off. So I was adding 40 weight oil leftovers. It might hel a little. By smoking more I mean more smoke on start up or shifting between 1,23 gears wirh hard acceleration. It didnot smoke so much before. Then at 500 miles mark, I changer filter and added about 1,5 q of 20 weight oil, and today topped it of to max mark while filling up ( anaother 0.5-0.8q). Looks like it smokes less since 500 miles mark,and engine idle is better with less vibration. So ether kreen cleaned out something or my cars likes 5w20 oil more... Idle is almoust without vibration(just a little) in steering wheel even with AC on.
Ok, so day X is soon, will start messing with my car on Sunday. Plan so far: Take off valve covers, clean them in and out, clean under covers, remove oil screen from front cover, replace all gaskets. While doing that put some kreen to spark plug wells, and then crank it later without spark plugs in. Put it all back together, drain oil. Put some new oil and filter. Go get more beer, let it run little more and add engine flush, run for 10 min and drain again,new filter and fill it with 4q of 10w-30 Maxlife and 1q of 10w-40 Maxlife(rest for top ups,got 2 gallon jugs on sale) run maxfile for 4k miles and see how it goes. So here are some questions: 1.I accidentally ordered 2 sets of gaskets from 2 different places. One set seems little softer. Which ones I should use? Softer or harder gaskets? 2. Cleaning: which chemical should I use do speed up cleaning? I will also use pressure washer for covers. I read topic here about same engine in Sonata, people recommended rug soaked with b12 chemtool. Also what to use for spots where new gaskets will sit? Nail polish remover? Also will put spark plugs to soak a little. I was thinking about break cleaner, B12,polish remover,MMO,Kreen to soak and clean stuff. 3. Flush: I am thinking to stop by at NAPA and get Lubro Moly Proline flush, but they might not have it. So what should I get instead, which is available at stores right away? Seafoam, E102,gunk? In the end of Maxlife OCI will use Lubro Moly Engine Detox which is recommended over Proline flush, and on its way from Australia.
there was no mos2 in last fill. Fill started with 30 weight, with some 40 and 20 added, so it should be around 30 still. If after all 30 weight Maxlife will burn at same rate 40 weight maxlife will be added first, then whatever is left, need to use my stash first.