I've been wondering how M1 0-20 would hold up in the Durateck engines, as I have two of them. I plan to run the 0-20 for 10K that shouldn't be a problem. I guess you use it in the Arz. summers? Good to see it doesn't shear down.
^I agree. I'd cap it at 10k just to leave SOME margin for error and safety. Oil is relatively cheap and i don't see the point in trying to squeeze EVERY last drop of juice from it at the risk of getting more wear on the internals.
10K is leaps and bounds from the ol' 3k disease. I say you got pretty good value outta that oil.
UOA/VOA would show titanium. It is not here so its not hidden by the word 'proprietary'.
Looks like you can go 10k with any full synthetic 0w20 or 5w20 oil, with your driving style. And, you have the 'cushion' if you're running 1k-3k late on maintenance. But, I'd still keep that 10k goal. Sulfation/nitration/oxidation numbers are lacking in Blackstone UOA's and is something worth looking at in that chilly AZ weather.
Originally Posted By: Blaze
Can you run the M1 0w-20 year round?. I currently running this in the kids 08 Tacoma or should I go to the 5w-20 for Summer?
If your engine calls for a 20wt oil then 0-20AFE will be fine year round. I started using it in the Fusion recently and will run it full time. Fsskier has used it for several years now with very good results, including towing in the summer in some high heat conditions.
Slightly OT, but the Royal Purple doesn't look all that much different from the M1 AFE, except for the magnesium. What is RP using magnesium for? Is that an AW additive? EP additive?