New Altima recommendations

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Hi gang,

I stumbled upon this incredible resource while surfing the net. I drove my new Altima home today and want to ensure that I protect my “investment.” I'd like some help figuring out what oil and filter to use as well as what service interval. I'm also curious as to when to first change the oil. There doesn't seem to be a specified “break in period.”


1.What kind of vehicle you have: 2010 Nissan Altima S (2.5-Liter DOHC 16-Valve 4-Cylinder engine (175HP and 180 lb-ft T))

2.What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well:
Recommended oil: API certification or ILSAC certification

viscosity 5W-30, however, there is an intelligent comment which states “...select the viscosity based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be operated..”

energy conserving oils for economy recommended
oil additives not necessary

recommended oil change interval:
Schedule 1 (severe conditions (...repeated trips less than 5mi...)) - 3months or 3750 miles
Schedule 2 (less severe) 6 months or 7500 miles


3. Where you live: southeastern PA – 45mi north of Philadelphia

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? Slow?): average (but harder than my wife)

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? Highway?): good mix of conditions – short trips around town (less than 5 mi) and 100mi trips 5 times a month

6. Whether your car has any known problems: it better not

If you have any preferences -- synthetic vs. conventional, store-bought vs. ordered online, how long you'd like to go between oil changes, etc. -- or any other info you think might be important, let us know that as well.

I often buy whatever synthetic is on sale at PepBoys for my Honda Pilot. I'll use syn or dino; store-bought or mail-order provided the reasons are logical and economical.

I'm also curious as to the experience of those who Fumoto valves. Worth it? Any draw-backs?

Thanks in advance - you guys rock!
 
If your doing 3750 then pick a name brand and stick with it. Some change brands around which is fine, just not something I do. The Purolator Classic is an excellent bargain with great performance.
 
I have a 2008 Altima Coupe 2.5 S with 25,000 miles on it. Since the factory fill came out at 3,900 miles, I've run:

Two 6,000 mile OCIs using Valvoline SynPower 5W-30
Two 6,000 mile OCIs using Castrol EDGE 5W-30

I'm actually half-way through the second of those Castrol EDGE OCIs. The QR25DE engine in the car seemed to like both equally from what I could tell. My average MPGs is about 0.4 higher with the Castrol EDGE, but I'm hesitant to attribute that to the oil. It might simply be that the engine is a bit more broken-in than when I ran the Valvoline SynPower.

When I dump the current Castrol EDGE fill this fall at 28,000 miles, I'm planning to give Quaker State Ultimate Durability Q Horsepower full synthetic a try. Between the low Walmart price of $18.50 for a 5-quart jug and the current $10 MIR, it's a hard deal to beat.

I've been using DENSO 150-1010 filters. If it weren't those, it'd be a Purolator PureONE PL14610, K&N HP-1010, Mobil 1 M1-110, WIX 51356, or a Bosch Distance D3323. Note that these are the slightly longer variants of the stock filter which is a "shorty". There's plenty of clearance for the slightly longer filters and really no reason not to run them. They provide a bit more filtering media, although in all practicality, it probably doesn't make a difference.
 
I would suggest sticking to 3750 miles at least on conventional.
For some reason those Nissans seem to be hard on oil.
An alternative to a name brand is NAPA Gold (Wix).
 
Originally Posted By: Gene K
For some reason those Nissans seem to be hard on oil.

Two questions: 1) Based on what? 2) Which Nissans specifically?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
In your Nissan 4 cyl,I`d use Pennzoil or Valvoline 10W30 dino.

Why? In a brand new vehicle under warranty that specs 5W-30, combined with cold temperatures that can occur in the PA winter, would 10W-30 be a better choice?
 
If warranty requires the use of a 5W30,then I`d use that weight in said mentioned brands. This part,*viscosity 5W-30, however, there is an intelligent comment which states “...select the viscosity based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be operated..”*,I wonder if the fsm has a chart listing different weights for different temperatures?
 
Originally Posted By: barlowc
Originally Posted By: Gene K
For some reason those Nissans seem to be hard on oil.

Two questions: 1) Based on what? 2) Which Nissans specifically?


Issues others have had with QR25.

Johnny248 that posted above deals with them everyday.
I would suggest you PM him if you want an in depth analysis.

PS Im not as pessimistic as he when it comes to OCI on Synthetic.
 
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Congrats. Altima is a fine sedan. Nissan is selling a ton of them. I just bought the Xterra and reading on various forums decided to stick with OEM filter and use the recommended grade for warranty purposes. Some dealers deny warranty if situation arises with the engine and you have no proof that used 5W-30 and OEM filter. I did my own oil change and even got some picture if needed.
I have seen good UOA with PP on this site but myself using M1 for now. Any one of them should be fine for 3750 oci.
 
Does it have a OLM Oil life monitor? If so follow that.If not 6k and or 6 months with a over the counter synthetic,Like PP or a boutique oil like Amsoil. Only if using it to deliver newspapers or pizza would I go 3750 oci.
 
Great info from all - I appreciate it.

Hounddog - no OLM in the Altima

Seems like the consensus is:

5W30 (Nissan recommendation - not required, and no temp chart provided)

3750mi OCI with a quality dino oil
or
7500mi OCI with a synthetic

OEM, Wix, or Purolator filter



Anybody use Fumoto valves?
 
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