Cross-threaded oil filter

[zimmerDN]

I am an idiot because I cross-threaded the oil filter today on a 98 Dodge Avenger 2.5L. As always, I will start the car immediately after the oil change to make sure everything is fine. Boy am I glad I did. I wouldn't have known there was a major leak if I'd just driven off after.

After 2 quarts of oil on the driveway (car only started for 10 secs), some swearing, lots of panicking. I managed to get the filter back on the car properly again. I can see some damage on the threading (not the threading in filte).

I wonder, even though there isn't a leak at the moment. Should I still change the filter reciever (the threaded tube on the car that the filter mates to). I don't do the oil change every time because in the winter it's just too ---- cold. I can get the filter on properly when I am careful but for someone (lube shop) who's not careful they might cross thread it and bad things might follow.

How hard is it do that and how much would it cost me?

 

[Dad2leia]

Wow, I'm lucky sometimes if I can get the d-a-m-n filter to start screwing on!!!

How bad did the damage look? I don't know how hard on that particular engine, but if you are afraid that the quick lube guys might make the same mistake if the threads are bad enough, you might want to consider doing all of your OC's, then you won't do any more swearing if it's hard or expensive, and will not panick at the site of gushing oil into the driveway.

 

[alanu]

You can screw that thing off usually. Call up the dealer for a replacement part. I've seen them with allen hex setups to unbolt. Every make is different. Call the dealer and ask before you pull the new oil filter off.

I find napa/wix is harder to thread than a fram oil filter.

 

[Donald]

So, did you turn the filter CCW to "feel" the start of the threads or just in a hurry and turned it CW?

I have never screwed on one cross threaded, but have put one on with a warped bottom and it leaked all over. I now look over all filters for damage and make sure the bottom of the filter is a flat surface.

 

[porcupine73]

I would check out the nipple. If it has a hex base on it, those are pretty easy to remove and replace. If it the nipple threads into the block but does not have a hex base then you generally use an internal pipe wrench aka nipple extractor to take out the old one and put in the new one.

If it's not messed up too bad you might be able to just fix up the threads a little bit.