What kind of plugs are stock on this motor. Manual says 100,000 miles before change is needed. Do they really last that long?
06 Malibu 3.5 liter Spark plug ???
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Only under ideal conditions, what ever that may be.
The owners manual should say the AC number of the plug, if not, any of the spark plug catalogs should.
Try the web sites for AC, NGK, etc..
The owners manual should say the AC number of the plug, if not, any of the spark plug catalogs should.
Try the web sites for AC, NGK, etc..
Yes. The plugs in my old 1997 Monte Carlo were first changed at 114K miles, and it was still running fine when they were changed. I sold the car with 195K miles, on it's second set of plugs.
Also, if you do decide to change them, I'd highly recommend you stick with AC plugs. The GM 60* engines do not perform any better with other plugs; and in my experience will perform very poorly with Bosch brand plugs. You should be OK with brands besides Bosch, but I'd still go with AC.
From the Amsoil website:
2006 CHEVROLET MALIBU 3.5L 6-cyl Engine Code 8
NGK PLUGS & WIRE SETS
Plugs:
IRIDIUM IX: NGK7164 (TR55IX)
VPOWER: NGK3951 (TR55)
STANDARD: N/A
Wire sets:
WIRE SET: NGK58401 (RC-GMX003)
2006 CHEVROLET MALIBU 3.5L 6-cyl Engine Code 8
NGK PLUGS & WIRE SETS
Plugs:
IRIDIUM IX: NGK7164 (TR55IX)
VPOWER: NGK3951 (TR55)
STANDARD: N/A
Wire sets:
WIRE SET: NGK58401 (RC-GMX003)
The OE AC iridium plugs in my 02' Buick were made by NGK and rebranded as AC. I changed them at 80K because it was convenient since I was having the i/m gasket changed. They were still running fine at 80K and still looked fine too.
I wouldn't start thinking about them until at least 80K unless the car starts running poorly. They are a PIA to change.
I wouldn't start thinking about them until at least 80K unless the car starts running poorly. They are a PIA to change.
Compared to changing the plugs in the red headed step child 3.4 DOHC, it's a snap to change them in these pushrod engines. I can do it with my eyes closed.
Yeah, i've heard they're horrible to change in the 3.4, my friend used to have those and I think he said it was hundreds just for the labor to change them.
I don't know if I would pay someone hundreds; but I think most mechanics just overcharge as soon as they see a 3.4 DOHC roll into their shop, just because basically every type of routine repair is such a headache.
Replacing the spark plugs is probably one of the easier things to do as well; it only requires rocking the engine forward and pulling the upper intake manifold.
Replacing the always-faulty o-ring on the oil pump drive requires removing the rear cylinder head; whereas on the pushrods it only involves pulling off the throttle body. It's not uncommon to bring a 3.4 in for this job, and have the tech just pull it out of the engine part way and then coat the thing in a buttload of sealant and just stick it back in. Saves them basically an entire day of labor.
I won't even talk about the alternator.
Replacing the spark plugs is probably one of the easier things to do as well; it only requires rocking the engine forward and pulling the upper intake manifold.
Replacing the always-faulty o-ring on the oil pump drive requires removing the rear cylinder head; whereas on the pushrods it only involves pulling off the throttle body. It's not uncommon to bring a 3.4 in for this job, and have the tech just pull it out of the engine part way and then coat the thing in a buttload of sealant and just stick it back in. Saves them basically an entire day of labor.
I won't even talk about the alternator.
I think he probably got taken then, because he told me they had to pull the motor to get to the spark plugs. He had a '97 Monte Carlo Z34. I remember him saying it was over $500 to do it.
I could see a shop charging up to 3 or 4 hours for the job, but there is no way you need to pull the motor for the job! I could see paying at the high end maybe $350 for plugs and wires.
The Monte Carlo Z34 is one of the better ones as well; there is a little more space in the engine bay and it makes it a bit easier to work on. The Cutlass Supreme International (along with the pre-96 Grand Prix GTP) is one of the worst. The engine barely even fits under the hood.
The Monte Carlo Z34 is one of the better ones as well; there is a little more space in the engine bay and it makes it a bit easier to work on. The Cutlass Supreme International (along with the pre-96 Grand Prix GTP) is one of the worst. The engine barely even fits under the hood.
One word of caution, if the engine has aluminum heads, make sure it is cool before you try to change plugs or you could strip the treads in the head. That could account for extra labor as the tech has to be careful. Many GM engines are of aluminum or aluminum components.
I just removed a plug from my 2004 GMC 5.3L engine at approx. 32,000. OEM plugs were like new and AC Delco Iridium.
I just removed a plug from my 2004 GMC 5.3L engine at approx. 32,000. OEM plugs were like new and AC Delco Iridium.
Good advice that I usually assume is obvious. The 60* engines have been getting aluminum heads since the 80's.
Good thing my GM vehicle is just a small 4-cylinder, then. Plenty of room in the engine bay for anything I need to do, changed the plugs and wires a couple weeks ago in half an hour for about $25. The toughest part of the job was figuring out how to open the little clip that holds all 4 plug wires together.
The Iridium IX plugs aren't going to last in a GM DIS with waste spark. They do not have the platinum pad on the ground electrode.
60-100k is typical for OE type spark plugs in terms of service life.
60-100k is typical for OE type spark plugs in terms of service life.
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