What oil should I put in an early 50's Ford 8N Tractor? It's a 50 - 52 model I believe. A 4 cylinder, of course. It's a gasoline engine. The ONLY thing I could find in the manual about it was how much that it holds (6 quarts)... and that in the winter time to use a 10w-30 oil. So, here in east Tennessee, it gets pretty hot in the summer. I don't think a 10w-30 oil would be all that great for it, but I don't know. I was thinking of going with 10w-40 or 15w-40, or maybe even a 20w-50. I just don't know, but I'm sure someone on here has one or knows what they take. Also, what brand would you recommend? Conventional oils only, of course. Thanks.
Ford 8N Tractor
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I grew up in East Tennessee... and compared to other parts of the country, it doesn't get all that cold in the winter- doesn't get all that hot in the summer. You'd be fine and likely notice no difference whatsoever whether you run a 10w30 or a 15w40.
I worked at a Deere dealership in Kansas for several years, and we got these little fords in on occasion. After half a century of neglect, abuse, and half-a$$ rebuilds, I'd say that those engines are loose enough that they might benefit from a little thicker oil. I always put John Deere 15W40 in them. If it was my own tractor, I'd probably go with Rotella 15W40 just because it's cheaper, more available, and works just as well.
I worked at a Deere dealership in Kansas for several years, and we got these little fords in on occasion. After half a century of neglect, abuse, and half-a$$ rebuilds, I'd say that those engines are loose enough that they might benefit from a little thicker oil. I always put John Deere 15W40 in them. If it was my own tractor, I'd probably go with Rotella 15W40 just because it's cheaper, more available, and works just as well.
That's what I would have went with, so that sounds good. Rotella 15w-40. It definitely doesn't get too cold around here compared to up north, but 90+ degrees is pretty hot to me. Nothing to 110's+ everyday in AZ, etc., but I guess the humidity makes it feel worse.
What part of TN did you grow up in, btw? Ever heard of Bulls Gap, lol?
What part of TN did you grow up in, btw? Ever heard of Bulls Gap, lol?
I own an ancient 9N I rebuilt going on 20 years ago. As far as oil, it isn't picky. It may only have 3 main bearings but they are so large and have so much area any oil will float the crank fine. Delo 400 15-40 in mine. It has to go WOT in 100F TX summers a few times during the year. I have seen old guys run theirs for years with 5-6 psi of oil pressure and they keep chugging on.
Yeah, I've heard of Bull's Gap... but my sole interaction with the area involves driving by on I-81. Grew up in Anderson County, close to a little #@$%!-hole called Lake City.
I'll agree that Tennessee can be unpleasantly warm in the summer- but as you said, that's largely a function of humidity. East Tennessee is practially a rainforest. I've lived in lots of places since TN, and East Texas (might as well be Louisiana)is the only place I've lived where the humidity comes close. These days I live in Kansas... where it can be -10 F in the winter and 115 F in the summer- but at least it's USUALLY not so humid (especially in the western part of the state).
But back to that tractor: I wouldn't lose any sleep over your oil selection- any brand with current API ratings is vastly better than anything that existed back when that tractor came out. Did 10W30 oil even exist back then?? My guess (and it's PURELY a guess) is that the original reccomendation would've been a 30wt. Regardless, Rotella 15W40 is good stuff- it's worked great in my '01 Lumina for 160k+ miles.
I'll agree that Tennessee can be unpleasantly warm in the summer- but as you said, that's largely a function of humidity. East Tennessee is practially a rainforest. I've lived in lots of places since TN, and East Texas (might as well be Louisiana)is the only place I've lived where the humidity comes close. These days I live in Kansas... where it can be -10 F in the winter and 115 F in the summer- but at least it's USUALLY not so humid (especially in the western part of the state).
But back to that tractor: I wouldn't lose any sleep over your oil selection- any brand with current API ratings is vastly better than anything that existed back when that tractor came out. Did 10W30 oil even exist back then?? My guess (and it's PURELY a guess) is that the original reccomendation would've been a 30wt. Regardless, Rotella 15W40 is good stuff- it's worked great in my '01 Lumina for 160k+ miles.
My neighbor has an 8N, which she uses a few times a year to cut the grass in a moderately sized field. She's owned it since the 1960s. I would sure like to ask her what oils she has used throughout the years. Man that old flathead Ford has a sweet sound to it! And there's certainly not a lot of components to break on it either. They certainly don't make them like they used to (I know that's a well-worn cliché).
I love my 8N... it is really a solid machine. I used to run 30 wt. oil, but with it's recent OCI I'm using 10w-30. I've actually started in the dead of an Idaho winter with that 30 wt. oil in there! But the tractor doesn't seem to care what is in it. I haven't found any solid recommendations... but it seems to want to run forever.
I agree, the sound the engine makes is wonderful!
I agree, the sound the engine makes is wonderful!
I have a 1950 8N. The original manual (written in 1939) states to use 10W below 32F, 20 grade between 32F and 90F, and 30 grade above 90F. Personally, I use Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT year round. Here in central Indiana, we will see a couple weeks in the winter at -5F and a couple weeks in the summer at 93F. I use my tractor year round and only change my oil once in the fall, so I like this oil. For better economics, I think the 15W-40 DEO would be a good selection as long as it is not too thick for your winter cold start up. Philip.
Well, I was going to go get the oil today. The engine was rebuilt 25 years ago or so. Believe this or not, the oil hasn't been changed in at least 11 years. It gets ran year round, but not a whole lot, and really never pulls even moderately heavy loads. Just used to haul wood on a carry-all on the back of it, or just brush loads, etc. No bushhogging or wagon loads of hay for it.
Now that I get to take care of it, the oil will be changed at least yearly. I'm thinking of starting out with Rotella 15w-40... but I don't want to go too thick. If Rotella makes a 10w-40, that'd be my choice. It just seems that 10w-30 may be too thin for it? Especially what it has been through. Now, it used to be a hay pulling machine, but not anymore.
Anyone see a problem with Rotella 15w-40, at least through the summer? Like I say, if they have Rotella 10w-40 (or if they even make that), I will just get it, instead.
Now that I get to take care of it, the oil will be changed at least yearly. I'm thinking of starting out with Rotella 15w-40... but I don't want to go too thick. If Rotella makes a 10w-40, that'd be my choice. It just seems that 10w-30 may be too thin for it? Especially what it has been through. Now, it used to be a hay pulling machine, but not anymore.
Anyone see a problem with Rotella 15w-40, at least through the summer? Like I say, if they have Rotella 10w-40 (or if they even make that), I will just get it, instead.
If you choose a mineral DEO, then I would use 15W-40 year round as long as it does not get below 20F. Most diesel engine manufacturers says 15W-40 is okay to use down to 5F. I prefer purolator oil filters. I pick mine up at Pep-Boys. If you do not have a preference, you can get filters at NAPA, TSC, Rural King, etc. Philip.
Some years ago, my workplace had a Massey TO 35, similar in size and build to the 8N.
Here's some things to watch out for. If that oil hasn't been changed for 11 years, there's a chance for a fair amount of sludge to have accumulated in the oil pan. Be careful with that high detergent oil and keep an eye on the dipstick and filters for excess accumulation.
Wix/NAPA has solid filters for just about everything. NAPA catalog lists for 8N: oil filter 1010 and crankcase breather 2841. Please confirm the numbers.
I was also told to be very careful of the tranmission fluid used. I "was told" that today's Universal Tractor Fluids are too thin for the hydraulic system. One guy even told me that for my tractor (that speced straight mineral oil for the trans), he had seen the paint on the inside of the tranny housing disolve and "gum up the works" from the modern fluids. Don't know if I believe that one!!!
Have fun. Check out tractorbynet.com and google antique tractors/8N
Here's some things to watch out for. If that oil hasn't been changed for 11 years, there's a chance for a fair amount of sludge to have accumulated in the oil pan. Be careful with that high detergent oil and keep an eye on the dipstick and filters for excess accumulation.
Wix/NAPA has solid filters for just about everything. NAPA catalog lists for 8N: oil filter 1010 and crankcase breather 2841. Please confirm the numbers.
I was also told to be very careful of the tranmission fluid used. I "was told" that today's Universal Tractor Fluids are too thin for the hydraulic system. One guy even told me that for my tractor (that speced straight mineral oil for the trans), he had seen the paint on the inside of the tranny housing disolve and "gum up the works" from the modern fluids. Don't know if I believe that one!!!
Have fun. Check out tractorbynet.com and google antique tractors/8N
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NHNA Ag parts lookup
Kinda tough to navigate (welcome to my world) but you can look up parts yourself here. OF is an 86546605 which crosses to a Baldwin P40.
Kinda tough to navigate (welcome to my world) but you can look up parts yourself here. OF is an 86546605 which crosses to a Baldwin P40.
I would run the 15W-40 like Rotella in a heartbeat, in fact that is what I use in my Massey Ferguson TO35 and it is what most of my other old tractor using/restoring buddies are running. It should do you just fine in Tenn.
I do hope that changing the oil won't hurt it more than help it after the oil has been in there for 11+ years! I'm nervous about doing this. It should have been done a long time ago, but I was just 10 years old when I first new about the tractor, even though it had been in my family 30 or 40 years before that.
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Synthetic oil in a 57-year-old tractor... now THAT'S dedication!
What do you run for hydraulic oil?
Mobilfluid LT 424. Meets Ford M2C134D specification. Takes 5 gallons. Philip.
I know an old guy who has a 1940 Chevy with a 'blue-flame six'- first car he ever had... and he still has it. He's a real good guy, but quite possibly the CHEAPEST man I've ever met. One time I stopped by, and he was tearing down that old six cylinder. Several valves had siezed in the guides... among other things. There were stuck valves, bent pushrods, and a 3/4" layer of sticky gray sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. The guy was mystified as to why this happened- and after some discussion, revealed that he had had the same oil in that car since 1977! (this was maybe 1997?). His reasoning was that the oil has zero miles on it (he rarely drove the car- mostly just started it every few weeks and dreamed). The oil also LOOKED new... probably because all the nasties had several weeks between startups to settle to the bottom of the oil pan.
So, yeah- 11 year old oil would concern me. Sounds like the engine is still running well- I'd mainly be concerned about whatever is in the bottom of the pan. I'd probably change the oil, run it for a relatively short interval (judgement call here as I have no idea how often or long you use the tractor), then give it a second oil/filter change. Hopefully that'll flush out the worst of it.
Some folks around here are fond of some oil additives to flush out crud... I'd be a bit leery of that sort of thing on a 50+ year old engine, though.
So, yeah- 11 year old oil would concern me. Sounds like the engine is still running well- I'd mainly be concerned about whatever is in the bottom of the pan. I'd probably change the oil, run it for a relatively short interval (judgement call here as I have no idea how often or long you use the tractor), then give it a second oil/filter change. Hopefully that'll flush out the worst of it.
Some folks around here are fond of some oil additives to flush out crud... I'd be a bit leery of that sort of thing on a 50+ year old engine, though.
You might consider dropping the pan to see what's there and clean it out. With 11-year-old oil, it can't hurt.
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