I just picked up a 60Gallon, 5HP compressor that is made by Dayton (SpeedAire) and sold by Grainger. I want to change the oil and prefer Amsoil. I do not have any documentation and cannot find anything on the web about what to use in this compressor. Can anybody recommend something? I see Pablo has recommended PCK in the past for compressor oil but do not know if I should order this. Thanks in advance.
Dayton SpeedAire Compressor Oil
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Campbell Hausfield suggests M1 5/30 for my 5HP and I have run on that for about 18 months without a problem. It is certainly quieter and smoother than it ever was on compressor oil. It will get PP 5/30 next.
Big Mike
Big Mike
Don't go with PP. Compressor oils should have no detergents or deposits will form on the valves. I believe C-H has suggested M1 oils for some ranges of compressors because it is easily available. My C-H manual says that if you're using motor oil to ONLY use M1. I suppose they have tested it and the add pack is "good enough" to keep things clean. Of course M1 has probably changed formulation twice since the manual was printed and maybe it isn't good enough any more.
I've elected to go with a synthetic compressor oil of the proper ISO weight rating given by C-H. In this case I'm using Amsoil PCK.
My bottom line is if C-H says M1, stick with M1 or use a true compressor oil, don't apply engine oil best practices to compressors because they aren't the same application.
I've elected to go with a synthetic compressor oil of the proper ISO weight rating given by C-H. In this case I'm using Amsoil PCK.
My bottom line is if C-H says M1, stick with M1 or use a true compressor oil, don't apply engine oil best practices to compressors because they aren't the same application.
Craig
Do you have facts to explain why Mobil 1 would be OK and other syns aren't? What would be so special about M1 that other oils can't, won't or don't offer?
Big Mike
Do you have facts to explain why Mobil 1 would be OK and other syns aren't? What would be so special about M1 that other oils can't, won't or don't offer?
Big Mike
Laminar Lou, it is model# 5Z628C, it is a 1999 vintage. We used it at our shop to supply air to machines, tools, etc. We just upgraded to a 120 gallon IR. It did come from Grainger and I emailed them to buy the manual and within hours they sent me it via email for free. It recommended ISO100:SAE30. It seems the ISO100:SAE40 Amsoil (PCK?) would do the trick. It says specifically to not use engine oil of any kind.
Of course they do make the SAE30 (PCJ) oil but it looks like the smallest amount would be in 5 gallon pails. Kind of strange. I am using the PCK in my 1/3HP IR compressor. It runs a little quieter (although it wasn't ever really noisey).
I can't tell if it is running cooler or not. I forgot to run an I/R termo reading before I changed it. But it is at such light duty that I don't think it really matters. I figure I would change it every other year and be okay.
My Dayton Speedaire (made by Campbell Hausfield) of similar vintage recommends this product sold by Graingers:
Mobil Rarus 427. It's a 30w dino oil, I believe. The bottle states: Very clean air valves, Long life for extended drains, Protection against rust and corrosion, reduced start up wear.
Here's a link:
http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/Lubes/PDS/IOCAENINDMOMobil_Rarus_427.asp
Mobil Rarus 427. It's a 30w dino oil, I believe. The bottle states: Very clean air valves, Long life for extended drains, Protection against rust and corrosion, reduced start up wear.
Here's a link:
http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/Lubes/PDS/IOCAENINDMOMobil_Rarus_427.asp
Boy, it seems that a forum poster can't urge caution about misapplication of lubricants without the burden of laboratory proof around here lately.
My C-H manual says to use non-detergent compressor oil or, if necessary, Mobil1 PCMO *ONLY* (no other brands allowed) due to concerns about buildup. Different PCMO detergent packages will burn off or produce ash differently. I suspect the folks who built the compressor may have done some testing in this regard.
My point is that I don't understand why someone would read something like that, then say "I'm going to try PP next".
First, unless it sees commercial use a compressor simply isn't going to need many oil changes so I don't see any cost savings by saving a couple of bucks/L on oil. Second, proper compressor oil isn't hard to find (especially for members of BITOG) or expensive.
Is this poster doing hobby UOAs on their compressor now and wants to try all kinds of different things? UOAs won't show you that your valves are all gunked up. Is he trying to save a buck or two every 4 OCIs? Does he just hate Mobil? This isn't the same as choosing Redline instead of genuine Dexron for your automatic transmission or running HDEO instead of PCMO in your gasoline passenger engine. This is more like running non-detergent oil or ATF in your engine instead of PCMO - wrong oil for the application.
My comments are meant to urge caution because compressors are not vehicle engines and this manufacturer has been quite specific. Other manufacturers don't allow PCMOs at all. Granted the OP can do whatever he wants to his compressor. If it sees very light duty, maybe it will never get hot enough to gunk up the valves no matter what he uses - I don't know.
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Of course they do make the SAE30 (PCJ) oil but it looks like the smallest amount would be in 5 gallon pails. Kind of strange. I am using the PCK in my 1/3HP IR compressor. It runs a little quieter (although it wasn't ever really noisey).
I can't tell if it is running cooler or not. I forgot to run an I/R termo reading before I changed it. But it is at such light duty that I don't think it really matters. I figure I would change it every other year and be okay.
There's a thread of mine about ISO vs. SAE ratings in this forum within the last two weeks.
Basically ISO ratings are at 40C, SAE at 100C. For compressor use and temperatures one should shop based on ISO rating and not SAE rating. In the case of synthetics like Amsoil, the VI is such that ISO100=SAE40 instead of SAE30 with dino oils. That means that PCK ISO100 is what you want for an air compressor calling for ISO100/SAE30.
PCK is sold in 1L quantities. I've just recently received some but haven't put it in my compressor yet.
Craig:
Cool your jets man-I didn't expect anyone to get excited about my post.When talking to CH several years ago when my pressure switch went out, I was told it was OK to use M1 5/30 in my compressor. Since all the info on this forum it would appear M1 is likely not the same as it was 3 years ago I just wanted to know what was so special about it and now probably moreso is it still Ok to use and why won't something else work as good?
I don't know about you but I am trying to learn on this forum and I ask an honest question.
My compressor is 12 years and is run very little and I have tried to take good care it as I will never be able to replace it if there is a significent failure.
I do have M1 10/30, RP 5/30 and PP 5/30 in my small stash and it would certainly be easier and more cost effective for me to use the PP 5/30 so I needed to find out if is was reasonable to do. If it will cause failure than I can't afford to use it.
Thanks
Big Mike
Cool your jets man-I didn't expect anyone to get excited about my post.When talking to CH several years ago when my pressure switch went out, I was told it was OK to use M1 5/30 in my compressor. Since all the info on this forum it would appear M1 is likely not the same as it was 3 years ago I just wanted to know what was so special about it and now probably moreso is it still Ok to use and why won't something else work as good?
I don't know about you but I am trying to learn on this forum and I ask an honest question.
My compressor is 12 years and is run very little and I have tried to take good care it as I will never be able to replace it if there is a significent failure.
I do have M1 10/30, RP 5/30 and PP 5/30 in my small stash and it would certainly be easier and more cost effective for me to use the PP 5/30 so I needed to find out if is was reasonable to do. If it will cause failure than I can't afford to use it.
Thanks
Big Mike
mgm13: Sorry, I guess I just came off of a frustrating read in the ATF forum...
I too was thinking that M1 was not the same as it was a number of years ago when C-H specified it, so I'm going to straight non-detergent compressor oil instead. I wanted to stay synthetic (just because that's the way I am) and the easiest thing to get was Amsoil PCK. This is my first Amsoil purchase - we'll see how it goes but I can't see noticing a difference better or worse in this application. It's a noisy direct-drive single stage compressor, I'm not expecting lubrication miracles.
I too was thinking that M1 was not the same as it was a number of years ago when C-H specified it, so I'm going to straight non-detergent compressor oil instead. I wanted to stay synthetic (just because that's the way I am) and the easiest thing to get was Amsoil PCK. This is my first Amsoil purchase - we'll see how it goes but I can't see noticing a difference better or worse in this application. It's a noisy direct-drive single stage compressor, I'm not expecting lubrication miracles.
I received the manual from Grainger. It says on this particular model anyhow, not to use motor oil or ATF. I was really leaning towards Amsoil becasue of the low pour point. The Mobil Rarus 427 has a pour point of about 25F, where the Amsoil is around -40F. Thanks for all the insite.
I have a 25 year old Sears compressor that was made by CH. It's seen all types of oil over its life. Castrol GTX, Kendal GT1, a couple kinds of compressor oil and right now M1 10W-30. It's been run so hard at times it was impossible to get your hand even near head or pressure plumbing. You could feel the heat radiating from it just standing near it. I'm talking many many hours of almost continuous running in high ambients.
I took it apart last year when it swallowed a screw and part of a broken reed valve. There was zero carbon on any of the internal surfaces. Other than some discoloration you could see, the remaining 3 reeds looked like new as did their seats. The pistons looked good but the one beat by the screw and broken reed. The rod and roller bearing mains were super tight.
My opinion is that carbon buildup on these low powered single stage reed valve compressors is nonexistant, and they really aren't too picky about lubrication.
Want to see carbon buildup? Try rebuilding one of the old 25HP-50HP 4cyl 2 stage Quincy V's with disc valves. You'll learn all about the ins and outs of using a wire brush...
I took it apart last year when it swallowed a screw and part of a broken reed valve. There was zero carbon on any of the internal surfaces. Other than some discoloration you could see, the remaining 3 reeds looked like new as did their seats. The pistons looked good but the one beat by the screw and broken reed. The rod and roller bearing mains were super tight.
My opinion is that carbon buildup on these low powered single stage reed valve compressors is nonexistant, and they really aren't too picky about lubrication.
Want to see carbon buildup? Try rebuilding one of the old 25HP-50HP 4cyl 2 stage Quincy V's with disc valves. You'll learn all about the ins and outs of using a wire brush...
i am getting ready to buy a Kobalt brand (Lowes) 5hp single stage compressor for cabinet sandblasting. Campbell Hausfield compressor oil is 6 bucks a quart at harbor freight and more than that elsewhere. i dont know how much the Amsoil is but it cannot be much more than that. am not impressed with how long the CH oil keeps a compressor alive.
how do you know is an oil is non-detergent?
how do you know is an oil is non-detergent?
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