torque & impact wrench recommendations

[sky jumper]

I'm in the market for a torque wrench and an electric 1/2" impact driver. I've heard the "clicker" type torque wrenches should be avoided - is this true? why? what is a good alternative?

does anyone have experience with a good electric impact driver that rivals the performance of an air impact? thanks!

 

[labman]

A clicker is fine for a busy shop with a way of checking the calibration frequently. The average guy maintaining a few vehicles is better off with a beam type. They are not as precise and require a little more care use. They are simple, rugged, cheap, and hold their accuracy for a long time. They are only useful in the upper end of their range. My 0-150 pound feet one is not the tool of choice to instal spark plugs in an aluminum head. It is great for head bolts and lug nuts, but I need to pick up a lower range one as such jobs become more common.

 

[surfstar]

Harbor Freight, 1/2" clicker torque wrench is usually $19.99 goes on sale for $12.99 sometimes. Same with the 3/8" clicker they sell.

 

[rpn453]

I prefer the clicker-type torque wrench. A lot of the time you're not in a position to read the torque on a beam-type, and it's much easier to never have to. It isn't hard to check if the calibration of a clicker-type is reasonably accurate; put a weight (such as a 50lb dumbbell) on the handle with the wrench parallel to ground and on a lug nut, and torque = weight x distance.

 

[porcupine73]

I used beam torque wrenches for years, and they can be a little tough to read depending on what you're doing (i.e. if you can't see the scale head on). Anyway, Sears has the craftsman club discount on the beam type wrenches right now so I picked up all three ranges. Might not be much better quality than Harbor Freight as so many HF vs. sears things look identical to me. I haven't found an inch-pound beam type wrench yet.

Clicker types are so simple to use, but I realize they might not be all that accurate over time. Good idea rpn453 on the way to check calibration. One thing I noted in the Sears instructions is to lower the setting on the clickers down to less than 20% of scale when not in use.

 

[Hirev]

As far as electric 1/2" impact driver you get what you pay for. I have a very old Ingersoll one that was made for working on large trucks. Its rated at 350 ft pounds. Its been a very good one. But not sure if they still make a heavy duty one like this anymore. If I had to get a new one I would take a hard look at Milwaukee's electric impact. Link here

Black & Decker tools are not what they used to be.

 

[ChrisW]

If and when you do get an air impact wrench, I would reccomend nothing short of the Ingersol-Rand 2135QTi, well worth the price of it. Compact, lightweight, and quiet, it has 1000ft/lb of reverse torque. It handled anything i threw at it.

 

[another Todd]

sky jumper, that really depends how tight they are. I used to use it to remove the lugs from an off road race car during the race when air was not available. It worked ok, but if the lugs are put on by a gorilla it might not take them off. By the way, it works better plugged into the wall rather than off a generator. What kind did you get off e-bay?

 

[another Todd]

My 1/2 electric impact is a Back and Decker Bulldog. Works well but is slower and less powerful than air guns. There are some good cordless ones out that are equal to the electric but are more than double the price. If you have an air supply where you intend to use it, stick with an air gun. The last couple torque wrenches I have bought were Huskeys from Home Depot, and they are the clicker type. Decent quality and price. I personally don't like the beam type.

 

[punisher]

Beam types are hard to read in any situation besides torquing lugnuts. Parrallax error is a pain to contend with on beam types.

Spend the money and get a decent torque wrench. A cheapie torque wrench is better than nothing, but then again, most things are better than nothing. If you take the time to torque a fastener, chances are it should be torqued properly. I have 3 torque wrenches, 2 of them clickers, 1 dial indicator. They get recalibrated/tested every year. So far they have always been in spec over the last 15 years, except for 1 time when the Snap-On broke and wouldn't click anymore.

 

[sky jumper]

thanks for the replys guys.

todd - I bought an electric off ebay. it claims 240ft-lbs but is not able to take off lug nuts (the key reason I bought it). is your B&D able to spin lugs? I dont plan to have air anytime soon (downtown chicago condo).

 

[sky jumper]

I bought this
POS

 

[alreadygone]

For what it's worth,,ALLWAYS back your clicker off when not in use. Keep in mind that beam varies drasticaly with temp change. Only thing you can count on with beam is that all nuts tightened at same time will be the same tightness. Anybody's guess how close they are to specified setting.

 

[ron350]

sky jumper

If you are going to purchase a torque wrench purchase a quality name brand that you will not be scared to use out of the box.

Google Precision Instruments and CDI they both make torque wrenches for Snap-On.

Be leery of used torque wrenches on ebay many are being sold because they need to be calibrated and recalibration is not cheap.

 

[1sttruck]

Beam types are essentially lifetime calibration, make sure the pointer is on zero, while clickers can go out of cal quickly. If you get a clicker also buy a beam type to calibrate it. Craftsman beam types are about $20, I have a 0 to 150 ft/lbs and 0 to 50 ft/lbs in inch/lbs, and haven't picked up a clicker yet. though I might when they go on sale next time. Craftsman clickers are warranted for something like 90 days or 6 months.

 

[gtx510]

Ingersold-Rand makes some nice cordless impact wrenches. Going my the specs their the most powerful until you get to the really nice Matco or Snap-on ones.
They're in the craftsman catalog but cheaper online and on ebay.

www.froogle.com is useful for finding deals

 

[JHZR2]

I have this one:

Milwaukee

And it takes off lug nuts with a decent amount of hammering... Not as powerful as what I envision an air-powered one to be, but it works well and saves me a lot of strain. I'm happy with it.

The only advice I can give is to NOT use the harbor frienght type lugnut impact sockets. The little bearing on the impact gun, which holds the socket in place, will essentially press a gouge in the hole inthe socket that it sits in, making it nearly impossible to get out. Its one of those things that just isnt worth scrimping on at HF... I learned the hard way.

JMH

 

[rpn453]

quote:

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Originally posted by alreadygone:
Keep in mind that beam varies drasticaly with temp change. Only thing you can count on with beam is that all nuts tightened at same time will be the same tightness. Anybody's guess how close they are to specified setting.

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How is that? Are you saying that the modulus of elasticity of the steel on a beam wrench is temperature-dependent?

 

[alreadygone]

Yes

 

[Clyde65]

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