rusted wheel studs

[2K2AcuraTL]

Just returned from Costco tire service to do the seasonal tire swap.
The service tech said the studs and nuts were rusted and difficult to remove and to put them back on.
He suggested to put some antiseize on the studs.
I checked at my local CDN Tire and they do not have someting specific for wheel studs.
Does brake antiseize fit the bill or is there another product/suggestion.
Thanks
Jean

 

[7TFord]

"Permatex" makes a quality antiseize compound that works well for most applications.

 

[labman]

Brake antisieze? Any silicone should be OK. I think some of the other brake greases are water soluble, and might wash off or hold moisture and make the problem worse. I would use a regular anti seize. I have just used a squirt from my oil can.

The manufactures recommend leaving the studs dry. This topic was thoroughly discussed here in March and again more recently. There are dissenters here, but many of us feel the best idea is to use the antisieze, but reduce the torque spec to 80%.

 

[2K2AcuraTL]

Thanks for the input, I think the can of anti-seize that I have will do the trick.

Labman:
You suggest to reduce the torque down to 80% of spec.. Is it because the nut is slidding better and applying more force..???
My first impression was that if the nut is traveling freely,a little more torque would be needed to make sure it doesnt move..??

 

[labman]

This is part of the reason some advise against any lubrication on the studs. Torque specs are based on the bolt, grade, size, and thread. The recommended torque usually is where the bolt is tight enough to stretch within its elastic limits and stay tight, but not tight enough to strip or break. With the stud lubricated, the tension on it is greater at a given torque. The 80% is what somebody else posted, who sounded like they knew what they were talking about. It sounds reasonable to me. I think it may be more important to torque wheel studs evenly than to any given value. Uneven studs may distort the rotors. As long as they are even, tight enough to stay, but not broken, everything should be Ok. With anti seize on them, everything, including your back, is more likely to be OK after you remove them the next time.

 

[9c1]

I am one of the anti-seize advocates. I used to use full torque value of 100 ft/lbs with the click type torque wrench. I recently purchased an electronic torque wrench and now use 85 ft/lbs. With this new wrench I have a lot more confidence in the accuracy of the readings.

Electronic torque wrench

BTW: I have no connection with this company, but do use their tools.

Terry

 

[shortyb]

9c1-thats the exact one I want to find in my X-mas stocking this year, I HAVE been a good boy

.

I too am an anti-seize advocate. A dab of Permatex but I use full torque, its only 85 lb/ft for a 12mm stud. Main thing is not to use too much and try to keep it off the conical/rounded surfaces of the lugnuts. This interface is the critical one that should remain dry.

 

[labman]

quote:

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Originally posted by shortyb:
Main thing is not to use too much and try to keep it off the conical/rounded surfaces of the lugnuts. This interface is the critical one that should remain dry. [/QB]

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Good point. Perhaps those that advise against antiseize have seen too much of "If a little is good, a lot is better."

 

[9c1]

Anti seize motto should be like Brylcream - "A little dab 'll do ya." I agree about the conical lug nut to wheel interface, but I have seen some poorly maintained alloy wheels that had a great deal of friction between the lug nut and the aluminum wheel. Made a awful noise during removal. The noise was from the lugnut to wheel interface. In that case a little anti seize was a benefit.
Don't forget to put a little anti seize the wheel locating circle also, especially if you have aluminum wheels. The corrosion in this interface can be severe, and it destroys the fit of the wheel.
shortyb - I hope Santa is good to you this year.

 

[shortyb]

9c1- thanks, so do I

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You make a good point about lubing the hub interface. This is extremely important if you have aftermarket alloys with centering rings. During a switchover to winter steel wheels last year, my father in law forgot the alloys had hub-centric plastic rings. Well, you guessed it, the plastic rings (goes for metal ones too) stayed on the hub and he didn't notice that. He put the steelies on and other than commenting that they were hard to torque down, thought nothing of it. He drove around for a few days til the rings deformed and you could turn all 5 lugnuts with your fingers!

p.s. He and the truck are ok. He has also been known to forget to peel the shells off of steamed shrimp too. It kills me when he says "the shrimp are great but alittle crunchy"

 

[Smoky14]

Bottom line is to understand why we "torque". The idea is to evenly stretch the stud/bolt. Anti-seize reduces "prevailing torque" and must be accounted for.
Yes I use anti-seize, aircraft mech for 30+ years and motorcycle mech for over 20 Yrs. Working with aluminum makes a believer out of you.