NEW JOHN DEERE LAWN TRACTOR (L118)

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I am about to buy my first lawn tractor--a John Deere L118---from viewing the Briggs & Stratton manual online, I see that they recommend 5w-30 or 10w-30. Since most of the use will be in warm or hot weather (the coldest use will probably be 30's or 40's) should i use 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 for the supposedly better shear stability? (since I don't really need the superior extreme cold weather flow OF A 5w I was thinking the 10w-30 would be better because it would supposedly offer better shear stability since it's a narrower viscosity spread than the 5w-30. Any info/guidance would be helpful since I want this baby to last--I've never spent this much on a mower before--my first rider--I'm planning in using Mobil 1 10w-30.
 
quote:

Originally posted by MADMIKE:
....I've never spent this much on a mower before...

Hehehee.. Apparently you havent checked out the LT,LX,GT series JD's then. Whew! talk about spending some bucks! The "L" series are a good mower for the price. 10w-30 will be fine for the briggs engine. Kohlers are a bit more finnicky with their hydraulic valve lash adjusters & like 5w-30's.
G/luck
Joel
 
Things sound reasonable from what's been noted here and there on this site and from a hunch. M1's base oil characterists along with the add pack may shift views on it's HTHS, which for their 10w-30 is something like 3.18.

Have you looked at the John Deere labled lubes? it was either here or on there web site where the numbers looked rather impressive, but than again, it's stressed to view an oil as a whole (proven performance), not by it constituants alone. I guess then it would come back to technical evidence, and altimately your own gut instinct.

I've helped a friend with his tractor he uses to mow and work about on some 5 acres of land. Used it myself for towing small dump loads and brush. With all the drive reductions, the engine seems to have no real load issues, except for the sudden mower blade engagement, but definitely nothing continous - even handles wet grass with ease (if I recall correctly). It's a real workhourse and great work companion.

Enjoy it!
smile.gif
 
Never really considered the John Deere private labels as they obvioulsy come from someone else and I don't know who that is. I also figured there's probably a premium markup on them that I could minimize if I went directly to the source. I figure I can't do much better than M1 from everything I've read on this site and elsewhere so I think I'll go with the M1 10w-30 EP. The nice thing is that a conmplete oil and filter change only uses 2 quarts so it won't be an expensive proposition to keep the tractor well-protected. Thanks Curious!
 
Thanks Joel---I did price the LT series on up and quickly ruled them out after I was revived with smelling salts in the JD showroom. I'm probably going to buy it at Home Depot as the prices are the same (apparently JD's are never discounted anywhere) and they offer rebates, currently a $100 gift card.
 
Mike, I dunno if you are dead set on the JD 'L' series or not, but did you check out a cub cadet 2000 series? It's a much more solid machine with a serviceable hyrdostatic transaxle (for a few hundred more $), as opposed to the sealed tufftorq trans on the JD. I'm not partial to any one brand. I Like'em all and have owned JD's and MTD's. Sears craftsman units are a real good buy for the dollar these days as well. I actually think the craftsman units are a little sturdier than the JD L series.
G/luck
Joel
 
I think you would be better served to buy at the Deere dealer. The tractor price is the same and if you need warranty work you're at the top of the list. I can guarantee you when their busy and your Home Depot tractor needs work you'll be at the bottom of the list.
 
Found this review

quote:

The John Deere L series was developed as a low end machine to sell at Home Depot. They are also available for the same price, at John Deere Dealers. Being a Service Manager at a dealership, I know what is and is not durable. If you have a small yard, you will be ok with this purchase, otherwise,you won't. I see more of these back than any other machine Deere makes.

First, the features- the twin cylinder Briggs engine has plenty enough power to pull the machine around- but, when you have to change the oil filter it is no fun to get to. This machine has a seperate choke and throttle lever-you'll need them both as the engine is cold-natured. Once warmed up, (takes just a bit.)the engine runs well. The
controls are easy to understand, one pedal for forward, one for reverse. I must tell you that if you have a hilly yard, you will find that the transaxle is weak- it is not as strong or fast as other Deeres. There is a cruise feature as well, handy for long areas. This machine does not turn as sharply as other Deeres,Not even as well as
some MTD mowers. the front axle is cast iron, with grease fittings on each front spindle, and on each wheel. This is because the wheels ride on bushings, instead of bearings as in the lt lx and gt mowers. The mowing deck is engaged by an electric clutch- this is a nice feature and reduces wear on the belt.

THe deck itself has been the source of several problems. The deck spindles (the part the blade bolts to) are made of aluminum with non greasable bearings- ordinarily, this would not be a problem- but I have seen several failures, due to inferior bearings. The replacement spindles, should you need to buy one, are about 38 dollars each- and are greasable. These seem to be holding up better.Adjusting the deck height is easy enough, with an easy to use fender mounted lever.

The L series mowers use pushnuts and self tapping bolts to assemble the machine- which may be a great time saver, but not a good idea from a service/durability standpoint. Refueling requires raising the seat and hitting a small filler hole- other models( Lt,Lx,Gx, and Gt) have the nice, large filler neck, on the left fender, where it
belongs.

This is not a quiet mower, the hydrostatic drive on these whines, even when new, and there is a decent muffler on the engine, but not what Deere is known for. One thing they did get right is the hood- it is made of a polymer like all Deere hoods on lawnmowers. The hood on the L-series, however, seems to be more durable, and less likely to crack.


The thing to remember here is that this is a low end, loss leader machine- designed to compete on that level with other discount store offerings. While the welded frame and durable hood are nice, they don't make it a deal. The l is the lowest rung on the Deere ladder- the next rung up is the LT,(I own one) and it is a good machine- next up is the LX, then the GT, and GX. If you have a
small yard , this machine is fine- if you have a lot of things to mow around, or a large yard- step up or look elsewhere.

Recommended = NO



[ March 04, 2005, 08:14 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]
 
I'm with Mike. I considered a L110 but ultimately purchased a JD LT160. Yes it was more expensive but it is a great machine. I fully expect it to last 20+ years with good maintenance. The cut is terrific and the bagger worked better on my leaved than I ever imagined. Not having to rake for 20 hours was well worth the purchase price!
 
Madmike,

You can run any xw-30 synthetic you want and it will be fine. I'm currently using the Amsoil 0w-30 in my 1990 JD. It has the 17 Hp, air-cooled Kawasaki commercial engine. You could also use 5w-30/10w-30/0w-40/5w-40/10w-40.

TS
 
I'm torn between the a 10w-30 and 10w-40 synthetic.(M1) Briggs & Stratton recommends 5w-30 or 10w-30 but no 40 weights. Is a 10w-40 OK in this application? I was hoping to gain a bit more high temperature protection with the 10w-40 as most of its use will be during the hot summer months but the fact that Briggs doesn't recommend it concerned me. Also, I was looking at the Mobil website and wondered why motorcycle oils aren't recommended as they are the same type of engine (air-cooled). Thanks for all the info!
 
Use the 10W40 if hot. These lawn mowers run real hot anyways. I run 10W40 synthetic motorcycle oil and a Motorcraft 400S filter. The JD filters are way too expensive and way too small.
 
The guy asks about oil to use...
smile.gif


then someone jumps in just to indirectly bash the mower the original poster purchased...
rolleyes.gif


THERE is ALWAYS some better product than what You or He or She purchased.
 
quote:

Originally posted by P2E2F:
The guy asks about oil to use...
smile.gif


then someone jumps in just to indirectly bash the mower the original poster purchased...
rolleyes.gif


THERE is ALWAYS some better product than what You or He or She purchased.


Yeap - I've got a L120. I would have liked a heavier mower, but after 200 hours, its had belts, oil, filter and a blade belt spring. Good care with alot of bolt retightening and grease seems to work well. And the motor has got some arsh!!
 
I just bought a L111. The oil filter looks pretty easy to get to. I'll be using M1 10w30. The fuel filler under the seat doesn't seem like a big deal to me. Mine has manual PTO for the blade. My hydrostatic transmission doesn't seem to whine, except maybe under the intial load of getting going in forward and reverse. John Deere also is running a special till the end of March, where you get $100 off when you buy an accessory with the L-series mower. I decided to buy mine at the local JD dealer instead of Home Depot.
 
quote:

Originally posted by MADMIKE:
Still can't decide between the dealer or Home Depot--Home Depot has a $100 gift card offer.

John Deere has the $100 off if you buy an accessory valued over $100 with it (thru 3/31). Unless you want to buy something else with the gift card, I'd go with buying it at the dealer. They took my picture with me on my new mower for the wall, and put the store's sticker on the rear. I just thought it better to get on their good side by buying it there.
 
Yeah I was thinking about that--if I have any problems I'll probably get better service from a dealer. And I do plan on buying the bagger which costs about $300 so that would work out well. I'm hoping it's reliable--I picked JD because Consumer Reports rated 'em tops 2 years in a row and they also need the fewest repairs according to CR. That cupholder will come in handy too--I can finally drink and drive without fear of getting locked up!
 
The only difference between the L118 and the L111 is 2 extra horsepower and a high-back seat--I figured for an extra $200 I'd go with a little more power and a more comfortable seat. I'm going to use Mobil 1 10w-30 EP in it. Still can't decide between the dealer or Home Depot--Home Depot has a $100 gift card offer.
 
The L series are made by JD, but of course assemebled of sourced parts, just like almost everything else.

It all comes how these parts are put together, how the parts are designed to fit each other, the overall fit and finish, ease of operation & maintenance, etc.
 
quote:

I picked JD because Consumer Reports rated 'em tops 2 years in a row

The jury is still out on the reliability and durability of the L series. My understanding is that John Deere buys these from another company.

Consumer Reports should make more of a distinction by actual manufacturer rather than by paint color.

John
 
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