Why are push mowers 22"

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Help,

Next year I want to buy a new mower. I dont' think that my yard warrants a rider as it's about 1/2 acre. I would like to find a push more(self propelled) that has around a 32" cutting area. Why do they not make these?
 
You can a 32" cut mower, they are self propelled, mostly belt driven, although they have hydrostatic drive 32" now. cost is anywhere from $1000.00 to ????? depending on make and model, Craftsman has one for around 1300.00, not to bad of a machine for the homeowner.
 
You don't mean "push" mower, you mean "walk behind".
wink.gif


30+" walk behind mowers are available. They are in the "commercial" realm with appropriate added cost involved.
Exmark
Ferris
Gravely
Are a few names.

One problem faced by residential "wide" mowers is blade tip speed. The government only allows something like 18-19000 FPS blade tip speed for safety reasons.
This means on your typical 21" mower, the engine is governed to a max of about 3200 RPM (although it's HP is rated at 3600).
If you are talking about a direct drive, single blade mower-
A 32" blade would be governed to about 2150 RPM and a 36" down to about 1900 RPM.
That's near the idle speed of a typical small engine!
 
3200 rpm, 22", that's a blade tip speed of about 305 feet per second, or Mach 0.28

Ac= V^2/r

V=92.6 m/s
r=0.28 m

the centripetal acceleration at the tip would be
30624 m/s^2, or about 3121 g's

wow!

someone check my math
 
But wouldn't a faster blade cut better? Sounds like something I would rather have.

Of coarse spending $1000 for a residential mower is pushing it. But it might be worth it. I bet the $1200 riding mowers don't cut worth a darn.
 
quote:

Originally posted by rugerman1:
How many years service have you gotten out of your Troy-Built?

Our small mower back home is a JD LT160, so I don't believe I can answer that question.

Have heard from others though that as long as you do your routine/scheduled maintenance and don't get stupid with it, the MTD built Troy-Bilt is very durable.
 
walk-behind double-wides are quite common, I'm not sure what the swath is but it's probably near 40" from the one I see around here. Some have a trailing seat.

downside is that they are commercial units.

upside is they make VERY quick work of our suburban Houston-area yards.....btw, lawnmowing is pretty much year-round here.
 
When my Bolens tractor died I had to mow my 1/2 acre with a push mower and it took me almost 2 hours! Before the next mowing I had a John Deere LT160 sitting in the shed. It's a great machine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jelly:
This is actually the least expensive riding mower I recommend...offers very good performance: http://www.troybilt.com/servlet/BrandProductDetail?ID=1246&CAT=28&SUB=32

I heard a lot to the contrary. Especially since the blades could contact each other and really mess up the mower costing a lot of money.

I found some on the Toro sight:
http://www.toro.com/professional/lce/prolinegear/gpistolgripfixed/

and see a lot of them in use by the pro's. I guess I'm going to have to spend over $1000 or spend over 2 hrs cutting.

I might just by 2 22" mowers and have 2 people cut at the same time(any volunteer's?)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Steve S:

quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
i heard of a guy who took 2 or 3 cheap #100 mowers and welded them side by side. he then pulled them behind his atv!

I have considered the idea.


Three mowers work better, improved overlap.
lol.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
i heard of a guy who took 2 or 3 cheap #100 mowers and welded them side by side. he then pulled them behind his atv!

What do you do with the strip of grass they leave between them?
 
I have had the thought of that ideal go in and out of my mind a few times. I almost built on a few months ago. I did a lot of thinking about this the last time I got the ideal. I did some drawings and stuff. I was thinking of putting two $97 pushers from wall mart together somehow to tow behind my quad. I will do some more thinking about this and will keep you posted with any new ideal that I get.
 
quote:

Originally posted by cryptokid:
i heard of a guy who took 2 or 3 cheap #100 mowers and welded them side by side. he then pulled them behind his atv!

How did he replace them when one broke?

I would think that a couple of 2x4's would work better. The front one longer than the width of the two mowers so you can tie a rope or chain to the ends to hook to the atv. The back just long enough to bolt the two togather. Of course you would have to defeat the deadman and you probably want to be mulching or you will be stopping often to empty the bags.
 
quote:

What do you do with the strip of grass they leave between them?

You let them overlap in their tracking, with one behind the other.

You have to also realize that a 22" blade of say 2.5" width and 3/16" thickness is a flywheel, a "Rotational Inertia" storer. OSHA has a spec that the blade must be able to stop within such and such time for various obstacles.

[ January 06, 2005, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
I grew up on house/lot that size. It was a time consumer in the days prior to weedeaters. So here's thirty-five years of experience:

My suggestion is to get a really fine, top-notch self-powered mower (Kubota used to make a really fine one),

but,

more importantly, work the lawn so that mowing is easy:

1] No places where mower must be pulled back towards operator.

2] Eliminate all corners in favor of curves.

3] Eliminate steep slopes with appropriate groundcover.

4] Maintain a minimum of 6" bare strip (mulched) off of any fenceline, building -- especially trees -- preferably 12".

5] Buy and use an old-fashioned 4-cycle edger with steel blade. Use it establish proper border lines, and use to dig deep at sidewalks, driveways, etc.

6] Mow grass before it needs it, so to speak. 5-days versus once weekly. Sounds like more work, but it isn't. The ease of a quick-time mowing more than offsets the shorter interval. Never bag; mulch clippings.

7] Mow in a different direction each time to keep grass blades from growing over. Buy three blades and keep razor-sharp.

8] Do edging, raking, general clean-up the night before (hire a kid).

9] Use a wholly organic program to avoid other than steady growth.

My last yard -- a beaten hard black clay "lawn" suffering under thirty years of neglect, preceded by a century of intensive cotton farming, took three years to come fully to life: beautiful friability, increased cationary exchange, all bug problems eliminated (the fireflies came back!) -- became a pleasure to keep and improve as I worked the above steps.

It was small, so I mowed it twice weekly (North Texas mowing season is 1 April thru 1 December) to make it easy: A quick "zip mow" on Tuesday evening, and a full-out approach on Saturday morning. A few hours per week. (Same approach to fall/winter leaf fall, only as needed).

Now I am faced with a much larger lawn, destroyed by chemicals and must start from scratch: sod-cutter, compost & worm castings, tilling, hydromulching, etc.

A rider is, IMO, only justified if the lawn (not yard) is enormous. A walk-behind gives a great deal more control to the lawns finished appearance.

In this part of the world, 1 February is the time to start: pruning trees and other dormant growth, laying out borders, serious clean up (starting on roof and working down to all areas of concrete, decking, fencing, alleyway -- got to dig up whats' growing back there -- and get pressure washer to same areas to avoid problems with spring growth).

(Use FUEL POWER and LUBE CONTROL to keep the 4-cycle equipment like new!)

[ January 25, 2005, 11:09 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
 
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