Bringing bike out of storage after ten years. Oil concearns.

[JetDriver]

I have a Yamaha XJ650 Maxim - 4cyl, 4cycle engine that has been in storage for ten years now w/o starting or any care.
It starts fine and I want to change the oil, filter, etc. It shares it's oil with the tranny. I plan to drain the oil, change filter, replace with synthetic mobil one for bikes, let it idle and change the oil again.
I was told that adding a fourth of its oil capacity with trans fluid would help clean it up a bit.
This motor/trans holds 3.4 quarts of oil.
Any thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
This bike has 13000 miles.

Regards,
Chip McGrew

 

['Tard]

I had the same bike and loved it. It has excellent low speed handleing.
Thats an early 80's bike, isn't it?

Chip, forgo the Mobil 1 change.
There is a set of product that are highly regarded called Lubecontrol and Fuelpower or LC and FP for shorthand.
It has a propensity to dissolve rust, sludge, varnish and carbon. I would shock dose Lubecontrol a dino oil fill (probably Havoline) along with a shock dose of Fuel power in the gas tank for cleaning out the carbs.
note: I would put in an inline fuel filter between the tank and the carbs.

Run it so it gets pretty hot as LC works better in a hot engine, and ride it for 30 minutes or so.
Then drain, change filter, refill with oil of choice and put in the maintenence doses of LC and FP as prescribed.

Lubecontrol website:
http://www.lubecontrol.com

 

[wileyE]

quote:

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Any thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated

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Skip the atf, it isn't an old sludged up car motor with sticky hydralic lifters, blown headgasket adn faulty pvc. If the oil has been changed even a few times in the 13k miles it's nice and clean inside and shouldn't need any help IMO. if the thing has been sitting that long some of the gaskets may have dried out, trying to clean it out with adds or even putting syn in it may make it a weeper. I'd stick with decent dino at the rec visc for your climate and just have fun with it. (ps check and replace the fuel hoses if needed)

[ June 26, 2005, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: wileyE ]

 

[MN Driver]

I would suggest skipping the ATF as well. Don't wet clutch bike transmissions dislike friction modifiers, many ATF fluids have those. I also agree with running it until everything is hot instead of just idling and dumping it.

I think that LC as mentioned before would be a good bet if you are worried the engine is dirty, but the short oil change will probably do well enough on it's own unless you believe there is a reason other than sitting for 10 years that would warrant cleaning, but if you want to do it for good measure, LC is my recommendation.

Just make sure you check and take care(replacement is probably necessary for every fluid if they have been there 10 years doing nothing) of all the rest of the fluids(brake fluid especially, if not operated by cables), any cables such as throttle, brake, etc. Kill switches. Basically check everything mechanically so nothing falls apart. I'm sure you have thought of all of this but doesn't hurt to make sure you have all your bases covered.

 

[medic]

NEVER PUT ATF IN A CRANKCASE!!!!!!! THERE ARE NO CLEANERS OR DETERGENTS IN ATF THAT WILL HELP CLEAN THE INSIDE OF YOUR ENGINE!!!!

Okay, now that I am doen with my rant. Don't forget to pull the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil or penetrating oil into the cylinders. Then, after this hashad a chance to soak into any rust that may have built up in the combustion chambers on on the rings, SLOWLY AND GENTLY turn the engine over by hand with the spark plugs removed (DO NOT USE THE STARTER). Once you have gone one or two revolutions, you be able to attempt to start the engine.

I'm with the others - change out all of the fluids, pack all of the bearings, check all the hoses and cables (repair or peplace as needed). And most of all, make sure the tires are in good shape. Dry rotted tires can be the difference between life and death.

 

[MN Driver]

^^^ That sums everything perfectly. Nice post. Except it will be turning the engine over by foot since it is a bike, but awesomely put. I totally forgot about pre-start cylinder lubrication.

 

[JetDriver]

Thank for all the advice. Some I have done: turn over with a wrench since it is electric start only. I warmed it up and dumped the oil, replaced with new oil, filter. Overhauled the master cylinder and caliper with new pads. I'll do more maintenance now that I have a new fuel tank and experience under my belt. Thanks again.

 

[Slick17601]

I'd run a couple 300-400 mile changes with a good 15W-40.

 

[SteveU]

Check the air filter & exhaust pipes, mice like to build nests in them. My bike sat inside my pole barn for approx 5 yrs, blew all kind of junk out of both pipes when started, took a few rides to get the "mouse smell" completely gone. Also check for rust inside the fuel tank, install an inline filter to keep this from getting into your carbs.
Good Luck,
Steve