So...Is M1 15W-50 OK to use in the Primary?

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I've been doing a lot of reading in this forum and some say that M1 Red cap will (or can) provide too much lubrication in the clutch and cause it to slip. (I have a '94 H-D Softail)

Has anyone had any problems putting M1 15W-50 in thier primary?


If you have been using it, let me know how long its been in your bike.

Deaner
 
I don't have a Harley, but a few of the guys with Harley's I ride with use the Mobil 1 red cap in their primaries and haven't had any problems. I've been using Mobil 1 15w/50 in my *** bike for years and never had a single problem. If the clutch is slipping, it's not the oil's fault. It's either improper cable tension, worn clutch springs or the clutch surfaces have been glazed.
 
I call my Yamaha Fazer 700 a riceburner.

My best friend, who is a top notch Harley wrench, uses all Schaeffer products in the Harleys he services.

He's actually the one who had me do the search on it, to make sure it was good stuff, that led me to this board back in June of 2002.
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I spoke to a Mobil tech recently and he admitted that many folks were using the recap in their Harley primary drives without slippage.

What he did tell me was that Mobil 1 redcap 15W50 has more FM's than it used to. So many folks who had been using it successfully in years past might now develop a problem; I don't know.

For what it's worth, I put over 300 miles on my '94 Low Rider with the redcap in the chain case and never noticed any slippage at all. And that was done in the last month, so the redcap had to be current production.

I think the clutch slippage thing is over-stated in many cases, likely by folks who are selling dedicated motorcycle oil at double the price. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, I'm just saying that it isn't as common as some folks would have you believe.

When I drained the dino-Harley oil from the chain case to put the redcap in, the dino oil wasn't very dirty (with over 2000 miles on it).

I got paranoid about the redcap in the primary after doing some reading (yeah, I know, I shouldn't believe everything I read) and I drained it and replaced it with the Harley dino (primary chain specific, overpriced 10W40 motor oil
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). The redcap emerged from the primary looking pretty soiled, with much "debris" in suspension. It appeared to have cleaned up the dino oil's mess. The bike had been run over 13,000 miles (regular changes, of course) with the Harley dino stuff in the chain case.

After a short while I'll probably drain the Harley oil and replace it with a synthetic 10W40 with a moderate or low FM number (if I can find such). I believe that the drive chain will benefit from a lower viscosity oil for better penetration of the chain links. The 20W50 will work; I just think that the 10W40 will be better. The Mobil 1 tech I spoke with recently agreed that a 10W40 oil would be the best choice for the primary drive.

I don't get all the hoopla about the "three in one" oil. It's largely a convienience issue and less so a matter of best oil in each spot. I think the 20W50 is probably a compromise for the primary and the tranny. Mobil 1 and Amsoil both are just responding to Harley Syn3 with the recommendation for an all around oil.
I came away from my extended conversation with the Mobil tech with the knowledge that 75W90 Mobil 1 gear oil will take better care of the tranny than any lighter oil can, and that 15W50 redcap (at half the cost of the Vtwin oil) will be more than enough protection for the crankcase.

One of the Harley Davidson's advantages over other designs is that you can actually be "lube specific" with your tranny, crank, and primary oils. Why throw this inherent advantage to the wind and use the same oil in all three locations?

There have been dozens and dozens of Harley evo's pass 100,000 miles without a tear down being necessary--and most of these were done using the Harley dino 20W50 oil. With a better oil, such as the redcap, engine life could be extended even further.

There is currently an '87 RK in Western North Carolina with over 400,000 miles on that engine WITHOUT A TEARDOWN. The rider has maintained it with dino Harley oil and regular changes. Harley has made him an offer of a new bike of his choice as they want to inspect the engine in Milwaukee--and likely put the bike in their museum. So if that bike can go that far with the Harley (read Sunoco, now probably Citgo) 20W50 oil I think we can relax a bit with regard to engine life when we use the superior synthetics...

Dan
 
quote:

Originally posted by fuel tanker man:
I came away from my extended conversation with the Mobil tech with the knowledge that 75W90 Mobil 1 gear oil will take better care of the tranny than any lighter oil can

Dan


Dan, I hate to tell you but if you take a look at the viscosity chart on bitog front page web page , you'll find that a 75w-90 gear oil is very similar in viscosity to a 20w-50 engine oil. It is possible that a 75w-90 can actually be a thinner oil that a 20w-50. This also leads me to believe that that harley wouldn't be able to tell if you had a 15w-50 engine oil in place of a 75w-90 gear oil or a 20w-50 engine oil unless you told them.

IMHO, the reason not to run a engine oil in the tranny is the fact that an engine oil is designed to deal with engine lubrication and clean up deposits left due to combustion. A gear oil is designed to deal with .... gears (imagine that).

personally, I run redline 15w-50 in my harley crank case, amsoil 10w-40 in the primary (I can't see why you couldn't run a quality gear oil here either) and redline mt-90 in the tranny without any problems at all.
 
Medic,

Please help me understand your statement "It is possible that a 75w-90 can actually be a thinner oil that a 20w-50."

I don't know much about the Redline stuff, but I think I'm in good shape with the Mobil 1 75W90 oil in the tranny.

Dan
 
Okay, if you notice I included 2 things - GEAR OIL vs. ENGINE OIL. I included a link to a viscosity chart to you could compare the two.

If a 75w-90 GEAR OIL were tested for viscosity as an ENGINE OIL it could range from a 10w-40 to a 20w-50. A 20w-50 ENGINE OIL tested as a GEAR OIL would end up being a 75w-90 or 80w-90.

Gear oil is tested at a temp of 100f or 40c because it usually only see temperature increase from friction.

Engine oil is tested at a temp of 212f or 100c due to it having to be used in a much hotter environment.

To keep it simple - a thick oil at 100F will become much thinner at 212F. Think about a big chunk of lard heated up in a frying pan.
 
I have a '90 FLHTC with 110k...bought new in 4/90...pulled lots of miles at 2 up/trailer...
bike was in storage for 2 years while I searched for piece of mind...
I've been using M1 15-50 Redtop since '93..everything is original except the stator...clutch has never spipped..I've been in the mountains a lot pulling all this stuff...
I had the clutch apart @ 5 years ago..it looked brand new...the chain shoe had a very slight wear mark on it...I change the oil @ 5k...I think the 15-50 is better at keeping the left crank bearing cooler (just a theory of mine..no facts to back it up)
This year I changed the trans oil to Royal purple 85-140...wow what a difference..the gears just fall in place..even on a cool morning at first start...had been using 75-90 gear lube since new...had the trans apart @ 102k cause my dip stick broke off and the gears chewed it up...all was well inside so the 75-90 did good...but I like the 85-140 much better...but...I live where the weather is 70*-95* most of the year except this past week(50* in AM)...now while I've got you guys here...I've been experimenting with the HDEO 15-40 with 7.5 ozs of Valvoline Extended Protection additive...so far the bike starts faster..idles much better..increase in seat of the pants HP..what ya think? Thin is in??? BTW...my motor is bombed to @ 75 HP...Thanks
 
Skunky,

Thanks for sharing your info. Especially the Syn tranny grease. I bought my '94 Low Rider used and the seller told me that the transmission would sometimes go into neutral when downshifting from 5th to 4th gear. He was right. It would do it every now and then, but not enough to be a bother. A Harley mechanic told me that "that's just a peculiarity of the Dyna 5 speeds." Okay. Whatever.
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Well. I think it's just a "pecularity" of crappy tranny oil, namely in this case the Harly "semi-synthetic" transmission lube. Because I put some Mobil 1 75W90 in there and--as has been your experience with the RP--shifts are much, much smoother. No more "banging" during shifts as these bikes seem want to do. And best of all, it hasn't done the downshift "neutral surprise" one time since switching the lube.

I will probably put the Mobil 1 15W50 back into my primary on next oil change. I had it in there for 300 miles and I let someone convince me it would damage my clutch.
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When I drained the M1 from the primary it was pretty dark--even after 300 miles--and it obviously had stuff in suspension. The Harley primary oil appeared to have left a bit of a mess!
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But here's my question:

You mention you're using diesel engine oil now, and noticing smoother start ups and (as may have been expected with a lighter viscosity) a bit more "oomph". Is this in comparison to the M1 15W50? Because that's what I'm using in my bike now...

Dan
 
FTM...sorry about the late reply...I've been on the road for the last 2 weeks...to answer your question about the M1 15-50 vs. the HDEO 15-40 ..the answer is NO...M1 is a great oil for your bike...it's that I'm cheap..
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..so after reading all about the HDEO's on this board...I though why not...now...I'm on my second change of 15-40 with the valvoline additive and everything seems to be working very well..at about half the cost of the M1...two things though...1) I have an oil cooler on..2) I drive like an old man...no more 80 mph all day...and if I blow the motor the wife said I can get an S&S 124 ....how about that...so stay with the M1 if you have any concerns about longivity..just don't do long drain intervals...I wouldn't go more than 3k even with M1...
 
Thanks for the reply. So you're using a 15W40 in the engine with a VII (Valvoline synthetic), right?

Have you done any UOA's yet to see what the viscosity is with the additive?

Dan
 
FTM...no..have not done UOA ...I'm on my second change...the first was with Pezz LL ..no additive ...the second with Motorcraft 15-40..with the additive...I only have a couple of hundred miles on it..I want to run it to at least 2k before I send in a UOL...(if I can only stay home long enough)..so far the butt meter tells me everything is ok...the bike likes it..will keep you posted...
 
FTM...no..have not done UOA ...I'm on my second change...the first was with Pezz LL ..no additive ...the second with Motorcraft 15-40..with the additive...I only have a couple of hundred miles on it..I want to run it to at least 2k before I send in a UOL...(if I can only stay home long enough)..so far the butt meter tells me everything is ok...the bike likes it..will keep you posted...
 
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