How to make asphalt

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Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's not oil, as has previously been explained it's a bitumen emulsion.
No it is oil. The tar comes later or they use blacktop.
 
This was a fun read while drinking Merlot

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Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's not oil, as has previously been explained it's a bitumen emulsion.
No it is oil. The tar comes later or they use blacktop.


I dare you to call your local EPA office and explain what you used on your ground, and see what their reaction would be.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's not oil, as has previously been explained it's a bitumen emulsion.
No it is oil. The tar comes later or they use blacktop.


I dare you to call your local EPA office and explain what you used on your ground, and see what their reaction would be.

BC.
No thanks.... I did some work on my car yesterday. It had an oil leak. Plenty of oil on the drive and coolant too. I used some oil dry but my usual procedure is to just let the oil dry stay there and it disappears.

You guys are way too nanny state for me to get your panties all in a bunch over a gallon of oil. Glad I live where I do. You would be appalled to know I used 3 gallons last week to start a huge pile of green wood on fire. Not to mention the fact the cat is missing on one car.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOEZ

You would be appalled to know I used 3 gallons last week to start a huge pile of green wood on fire. Not to mention the fact the cat is missing on one car.


Cringey
 
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Originally Posted By: SHOZ
No thanks.... I did some work on my car yesterday. It had an oil leak. Plenty of oil on the drive and coolant too. I used some oil dry but my usual procedure is to just let the oil dry stay there and it disappears.

You guys are way too nanny state for me to get your panties all in a bunch over a gallon of oil. Glad I live where I do. You would be appalled to know I used 3 gallons last week to start a huge pile of green wood on fire. Not to mention the fact the cat is missing on one car.


Are you sure you don't want to post your address? Maybe someone can figure it out from the GPS info in the picture. Then we can have the EPA stop by and see if your driveway will qualify as a superfund site!
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
No thanks.... I did some work on my car yesterday. It had an oil leak. Plenty of oil on the drive and coolant too. I used some oil dry but my usual procedure is to just let the oil dry stay there and it disappears.

You guys are way too nanny state for me to get your panties all in a bunch over a gallon of oil. Glad I live where I do. You would be appalled to know I used 3 gallons last week to start a huge pile of green wood on fire. Not to mention the fact the cat is missing on one car.


Are you sure you don't want to post your address? Maybe someone can figure it out from the GPS info in the picture. Then we can have the EPA stop by and see if your driveway will qualify as a superfund site!
Are you trying to stalk me?
 
No, but here's a simple question. Are you willing to call up the EPA and tell them you poured out some used motor oil on your driveway and if it's ok?

Your answer will tell you all you need to know on whether you should have done it or not.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
No, but here's a simple question. Are you willing to call up the EPA and tell them you poured out some used motor oil on your driveway and if it's ok?

Your answer will tell you all you need to know on whether you should have done it or not.
Don't fall off your high horse.

If I did call the EPA it wold be to complain about the fuel depot a mile away. Leaked diesel for 12 years before they followed up on the complaints from locals. I don't fear in the least the EPA. They would come out and look at the drive and see it is identical to the road.

If your car leaked oil on a gravel driveway would you call the EPA to see what to do? Would you dig it he soiled gravel up and dispose it in the 'offical way'
 
The EPA isn't going to get their panties in a twist over a gallon or two. Anything under 50 gallons isn't even required to be reported and one of the acceptable methods of disposal is mixing contaminated material with clean material and spreading it on the surface. Believe it or not, bacteria in the soil will break down the oil relatively quickly. They even sell products that encourage bio degradation of oil.
 
All "spills" greater than 5 gallons are mandatory reporting items in MN to the Minnesota Duty Officer. Disposal tracking doesn't start until 50 gallons or more. Significant difference...

Used oil is NOT intentionally disposed of by dilution and surface applications. Used oil is regulated separately from other hazardous wastes specifically because it can be recycled and re-refined or burned.

The description above is often used with already contaminated soils - not ones that haven't been yet.
 
The amount of oil leaking into the sea and ground from oil rigs..pollution from car exhausts...this diy project pales in comparison,hardly a major environmental disaster compared to what we do on a daily basis
 
Seeing as you people still don't realize what asphalt is here is the spec the Ohio transportation uses. It's the same as what they use and what I did.

Some people need to pull their head out of their Oz.

Chip Seal Fact Sheet

Quote:
How are Chip Seals Different from Asphalt Overlays?

The difference is in the construction method. Hot Mix Asphalt pavement is produced by heating liquid asphalt and mixing it with aggregate, with the mix then spread and compacted to form a durable road structure and riding surface. Chip Sealing uses the same ingredients as asphalt concrete paving, but the construction method is different. With chip seals, a thin film of heated asphalt liquid is sprayed on the road surface, followed by the placement of small aggregates ("chips"). The chips are then compacted to orient the chips for maximum adherence to the asphalt, and excess stone is swept from the surface. The ingredients of hot mix asphalt and chip seals are the same; only the construction methods are different.



Why Use Chip Seals?

Chip seals provide ODOT with the opportunity to maintain the roads for very low cost.
A chip seal is about one fourth to one fifth the cost of a conventional asphalt overlay.
By extending the time between asphalt overlays, chip seals result in lower costs over the long term.
By placing a chip seal sooner than an asphalt overlay would be placed, the traveling public benefits from roads maintained in better condition.
Chip Seals eliminate the need to crack seal.
Chip seals enhance safety by providing good skid resistance.
Chip seals provide an effective moisture barrier for the underlying pavement against water intrusion by sealing cracks in the pavement.
Chip seals prevent deterioration of the asphalt surface from the effects of aging and oxidation due to water and sun.
ODOT has successfully used chip seals for over 25 years to maintain state routes.
Chip seals are used only on low traffic routes, less than 2500 vehicles per day.
Chip seals virtually eliminate black ice.
In hot weather, chip seals re-seal cracks by flowing back together.



How Are Chip Seals Placed?

First, the road surface needs to be properly cleaned of debris and any holes patched. Next, an asphalt distributor truck starts by spraying each lane with hot liquid asphalt to assure an even application. The asphalt used is applied at a temperature between 150 and 185 degrees Fahrenheit. A chip spreader follows as rapidly as possible with a rock application, preferably within one minute. The asphalt must be fluid so the rock will be embedded by the displacement of the asphalt. The rocks are an aggregate crushed to a special specification for size and cleanliness. Next, a rubber-tire roller is used to set the rock into the liquid asphalt. Rolling orients the flat sides of the rock down and produces a tighter chip seal. It takes two to four passes of the roller to set the rock. Sweeping is done at the completion of the chip seal process to remove surplus rock from the surface. This loose rock can grind and loosen rock set in the chip seal and damage the project. Sweeping is done within 4 hours of the rolling operation, and typically again a day or two later.
 
I'll bite, and the "Oz" is clear reference...

Where is the "oil", the "New engine oil", or the "used engine oil" in your "how chip seal is applied" quote ???

Again...they spray down bitumen, and it has nothing to do with cheap arsed "looks black so it's the same"...which is clearly against your EPA legislation.
 
The oil is for new gravel or dirt before the asphalt. They do not use bitumen for oil and chipping, but they do in some instances for spot repair or a new major road. How can it be against the EPA regulations if almost every state uses it? It would help if you read the link and text instead of just talking out your Oz.

I can link more info if you want.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
The oil is for new gravel or dirt before the asphalt. They do not use bitumen for oil and chipping, but they do in some instances for spot repair or a new major road. How can it be against the EPA regulations if almost every state uses it? It would help if you read the link and text instead of just talking out your Oz.

I can link more info if you want.


Yeah, please do...one that says that they use oil..not bitumen...oil...not things like kerosene to reduce the viscosity for application...oil.
 
This is what they do here minus the last step of fog sealing.

https://multco.us/roads/road-maintenance-team-tests-new-chip-seal-treatment

For many years Multnomah County road crews have been experts in chip sealing roads. A chip seal is a low-cost method of extending the life of a paved road. Unlike an overlay, a chip seal applies thin layers of oil and gravel instead of a thicker layer of asphalt.

Chip seals are a good alternative for rural roads when funding is not available for an asphalt overlay. The treatment typically provides good protection from cracking for two to three years compared to six years for an overlay.

Recently, some local agencies have experimented with a thicker chip seal that provides five to six years of protection. Multnomah County crews applied this “two-step” chip seal for the first time recently, on Sauvie Island Road between Gillahan Road and Reeder Road.

Road Maintenance Supervisor Bill Whitson explains how it works. “First we do prep work such as mill out and inlay distressed areas of pavement. We also seal cracks in the asphalt. During the application, we first put down oil and cover it with a layer of gravel. The gravel pieces in this bottom layer are no larger than 3/8 of an inch. A roller compresses the gravel into the oil and then we let the oil cure for several days.

“Then we apply a second layer of oil followed by a layer of smaller sized gravel. A roller compresses the gravel, which is no larger than ¼ inch. After the oil cures, we return in a few days and apply a light top layer of oil mixed with water. This fog seal top coat helps hold any loose rock in place and makes the final road surface look black like an asphalt overlay.”

In addition to the experimental project on Sauvie Island, County Roads also completed a standard chip seal on a 1.5 mile section of Orient Drive in east county, between 282nd Ave. and the Clackamas County line. The standard chip seal does not include the bottom layer of larger size gravel.

District 1 Road Manager John Niiyama led this year’s planning effort while Kip Courser and Don Pfister led the team of seventeen who performed the work. The operation involves a tightly choreographed fleet of trucks, heavy equipment, traffic control, pilot vehicles, and ground support.

The Roads team looks forward to monitoring their first “two step” chip seal to see if it provides a way to get a longer lasting product for a minimal increase in cost.
 
Even looking at the pictures in your link, you can see that the "oil" that they are talking about is bitumen, not anything resembling used engine oil....

facepalm.jpg
 
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