Seized brake bleeder?
- Thread starter BBuzecky
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If this happened to me again (hopefully not VERY likely with this car since I've got PTFE tape on all three nipple threads), in an all-else-has-failed situation I'm thinking I might try resistive heating. i.e. hooking the nipple up to a car battery or two with a jump lead, and then touching the other terminal to the caliper body, the theory being that the corroded threads might have enough resistance to get local heating.
You could try it the other way around, so you get actual arcing onto the nipple, and in that case there might be an optimum polarity, but you'd be more likely to destroy it doing that.
I suppose with modern electronic-laden cars there might be concern about damage to, say, the ABS, but I don't have (or want) experience with modern cars.
You could try it the other way around, so you get actual arcing onto the nipple, and in that case there might be an optimum polarity, but you'd be more likely to destroy it doing that.
I suppose with modern electronic-laden cars there might be concern about damage to, say, the ABS, but I don't have (or want) experience with modern cars.
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I've used a bit of propane torch then sprayed with PB Blaster, let sit then hit again, spray and wait.
Key is don't overdo the heat or the wheel cylinder / caliper could be damaged, some have plastic / phenolic pistons!!
With ABS be sure to plug opened lines ASAP while doing rest of work - lines will drain and air can travel up to ABS unit!!!
Once air reaches inside of ABS unit regular pressure or vacuum bleeding won't get air out. GMs require trip to dealer and special scan tool to set a command to open all internal valves to bleed out air!! A real hassle!!!
Key is don't overdo the heat or the wheel cylinder / caliper could be damaged, some have plastic / phenolic pistons!!
With ABS be sure to plug opened lines ASAP while doing rest of work - lines will drain and air can travel up to ABS unit!!!
Once air reaches inside of ABS unit regular pressure or vacuum bleeding won't get air out. GMs require trip to dealer and special scan tool to set a command to open all internal valves to bleed out air!! A real hassle!!!
Don't worry too too much about heat. Calipers can take a good deal of heat. In addition, try tap the wrench with a hammer to give it a bit of an impact-like action.
You can always let the screw break off, and then try one of these tool kits:
http://www.tooltopia.com/surr-auto-parts-bb007.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/surr-auto-parts-bb007.aspx
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Heat, water, heat, water. Repeat as necesary. The bleeder will open.
+1
Small torch, plus a rag in a bucket of water. Torch, rag, wrench. Repeat until it breaks free.
Heat, water, heat, water. Repeat as necesary. The bleeder will open.
+1
Small torch, plus a rag in a bucket of water. Torch, rag, wrench. Repeat until it breaks free.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
As expected, if the problem could be solved with a very expensive tool, TheCritic would be the first one to recommend that!
I suspect OP can buy the whole caliper for lot cheaper than that tool.
A new caliper from the dealer would be a lot more expensive than that tool set. My experience with aftermarket reman calipers has been very poor.
As expected, if the problem could be solved with a very expensive tool, TheCritic would be the first one to recommend that!
I suspect OP can buy the whole caliper for lot cheaper than that tool.
A new caliper from the dealer would be a lot more expensive than that tool set. My experience with aftermarket reman calipers has been very poor.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
13 year old car and OP is going to buy new caliper from dealer?
Yup. If he wants the best chance of having the caliper to function correctly, then he should get one from the dealer. That's what I suggest to owners. If you go on Iatn, you'll find that many folks on there will share the same opinion as me.
13 year old car and OP is going to buy new caliper from dealer?
Yup. If he wants the best chance of having the caliper to function correctly, then he should get one from the dealer. That's what I suggest to owners. If you go on Iatn, you'll find that many folks on there will share the same opinion as me.
Originally Posted By: yesthatsteve
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Heat, water, heat, water. Repeat as necesary. The bleeder will open.
+1
Small torch, plus a rag in a bucket of water. Torch, rag, wrench. Repeat until it breaks free.
How long? 30 seconds? A minute? I'm afraid of damaging something internally.
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Heat, water, heat, water. Repeat as necesary. The bleeder will open.
+1
Small torch, plus a rag in a bucket of water. Torch, rag, wrench. Repeat until it breaks free.
How long? 30 seconds? A minute? I'm afraid of damaging something internally.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Vikas
13 year old car and OP is going to buy new caliper from dealer?
Yup. If he wants the best chance of having the caliper to function correctly, then he should get one from the dealer. That's what I suggest to owners. If you go on Iatn, you'll find that many folks on there will share the same opinion as me.
Oh, really??? Are you giving this advice based specifically on OP's particular car or are you just blowing smoke?
Originally Posted By: Vikas
13 year old car and OP is going to buy new caliper from dealer?
Yup. If he wants the best chance of having the caliper to function correctly, then he should get one from the dealer. That's what I suggest to owners. If you go on Iatn, you'll find that many folks on there will share the same opinion as me.
Oh, really??? Are you giving this advice based specifically on OP's particular car or are you just blowing smoke?
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