While we argue degrees of perfection, the OP needs an answer. I'd say to get compressor applied FF and call it a day. Even rattle can FF is much better than nothing. While there are better products, FF does work decently on cars, even on undercarriages. If it can be sprayed on the backsides of those panels, that's optimal.
Fluid Film Corrosion Preventative
- Thread starter JXW
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Originally Posted By: JXW
Where can this be purchased?
The Cortec can be purchased from the rust store and Corban from sky geek.
https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-Liquid-Rust-Prevention-C70.aspx
http://www.skygeek.com/zip-chem-cor-ban-35-corrosion-inhibitor.html
Where can this be purchased?
The Cortec can be purchased from the rust store and Corban from sky geek.
https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-Liquid-Rust-Prevention-C70.aspx
http://www.skygeek.com/zip-chem-cor-ban-35-corrosion-inhibitor.html
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: JXW
Where can this be purchased?
The Cortec can be purchased from the rust store and Corban from sky geek.
https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-Liquid-Rust-Prevention-C70.aspx
http://www.skygeek.com/zip-chem-cor-ban-35-corrosion-inhibitor.html
Thank you!
Originally Posted By: JXW
Where can this be purchased?
The Cortec can be purchased from the rust store and Corban from sky geek.
https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-Liquid-Rust-Prevention-C70.aspx
http://www.skygeek.com/zip-chem-cor-ban-35-corrosion-inhibitor.html
Thank you!
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I started using the VpCI-368 last year and the product is excellent. It's not cheap, but to me my time is money and paying up for a better product is well worth it. In all honesty there is no comparison between a spray bomb application and using a compressor with the wands for applying any of these products.
If you really want a good job a compressor and gun with wands is the hands down winner. Last week on my Jeep I combined that with a coat from my airless sprayer on the undercarriage and was very pleased with the results.
Source???
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I started using the VpCI-368 last year and the product is excellent. It's not cheap, but to me my time is money and paying up for a better product is well worth it. In all honesty there is no comparison between a spray bomb application and using a compressor with the wands for applying any of these products.
If you really want a good job a compressor and gun with wands is the hands down winner. Last week on my Jeep I combined that with a coat from my airless sprayer on the undercarriage and was very pleased with the results.
Source???
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Originally Posted By: JXW
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: JXW
Where can this be purchased?
The Cortec can be purchased from the rust store and Corban from sky geek.
https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-Liquid-Rust-Prevention-C70.aspx
http://www.skygeek.com/zip-chem-cor-ban-35-corrosion-inhibitor.html
Thank you!
your welcome. I use this gun, its excellent.
http://www.chemicar.com/tools_spraygun_under.php
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: JXW
Where can this be purchased?
The Cortec can be purchased from the rust store and Corban from sky geek.
https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-Liquid-Rust-Prevention-C70.aspx
http://www.skygeek.com/zip-chem-cor-ban-35-corrosion-inhibitor.html
Thank you!
your welcome. I use this gun, its excellent.
http://www.chemicar.com/tools_spraygun_under.php
Another plug for CarWell is that they have a mobile truck and do roughly 2000 school buses every summer. While they could have won the lowest price contract, my guess is the school bus fleets like how the stuff performs.
^^ Carwell sounds great, and I'd probably use them. The biggest problem is they're nowhere to be found around here. I have the equipment so a DIY job for me works well, and I know its done right. I had a quote from someone about 50 miles from here for $1,200 to do it to a 2 door Jeep. I passed.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
^^ Carwell sounds great, and I'd probably use them. The biggest problem is they're nowhere to be found around here. I have the equipment so a DIY job for me works well, and I know its done right. I had a quote from someone about 50 miles from here for $1,200 to do it to a 2 door Jeep. I passed.
You can order CarWell. I have some in my basement I ordered. I have yet to use it as I go to the shop to have it done.
^^ Carwell sounds great, and I'd probably use them. The biggest problem is they're nowhere to be found around here. I have the equipment so a DIY job for me works well, and I know its done right. I had a quote from someone about 50 miles from here for $1,200 to do it to a 2 door Jeep. I passed.
You can order CarWell. I have some in my basement I ordered. I have yet to use it as I go to the shop to have it done.
^^ Thanks, too late now. I have about 2.5 gallons of the VpCI368 to use up. Maybe I'll check out the CarWell for my van if I re-shoot it this fall.
Bar and chain oil diluted with kerosene works great. Makes a mess though.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
While we argue degrees of perfection, the OP needs an answer. I'd say to get compressor applied FF and call it a day. Even rattle can FF is much better than nothing. While there are better products, FF does work decently on cars, even on undercarriages. If it can be sprayed on the backsides of those panels, that's optimal.
I found spray can FF to be useless on frame stuff. Just too thin, washes away too fast--unless if you frequently reapply. The thicker stuff will almost make it through the winter. It too can use some touching up in the winter months IMO.
While we argue degrees of perfection, the OP needs an answer. I'd say to get compressor applied FF and call it a day. Even rattle can FF is much better than nothing. While there are better products, FF does work decently on cars, even on undercarriages. If it can be sprayed on the backsides of those panels, that's optimal.
I found spray can FF to be useless on frame stuff. Just too thin, washes away too fast--unless if you frequently reapply. The thicker stuff will almost make it through the winter. It too can use some touching up in the winter months IMO.
FF is good for shooting inside interior panels, subframes, rocker boxes, doors, deck lids, hatches etc Will creap into all the crevises and prevent rust.
For underside of the car, after prepping to get oil/grease dirt off, paint it, I like Eastwoods Rust encapsulator paint and top coat with chasis black epoxy. Use their brushable seam seal on all the joints where panels overlap. Lastly spray their heavy duty anti rust. Must remove the inner fender wells.
FF on the underside just makes a [censored] mess, sucks to crawl under to work on a car coated with FF sprayed on the floors.
For underside of the car, after prepping to get oil/grease dirt off, paint it, I like Eastwoods Rust encapsulator paint and top coat with chasis black epoxy. Use their brushable seam seal on all the joints where panels overlap. Lastly spray their heavy duty anti rust. Must remove the inner fender wells.
FF on the underside just makes a [censored] mess, sucks to crawl under to work on a car coated with FF sprayed on the floors.
I've had good luck with Fluid Film. You can spray it with an airless paint sprayer if you don't have a compressor.
In my experience, it really only washes off of high-spray areas like wheels wells. I sprayed my truck a couple years ago and it's clear there's still FF present on the frame.
It may not be the very, very best product, but it's a huge improvement over nothing and it's easy to do and affordable. In my area, there are no places that do sprayed oil undercoating, so your options are DIY or nothing. FF with an annual touch-up is a good option for a lot of people.
In my experience, it really only washes off of high-spray areas like wheels wells. I sprayed my truck a couple years ago and it's clear there's still FF present on the frame.
It may not be the very, very best product, but it's a huge improvement over nothing and it's easy to do and affordable. In my area, there are no places that do sprayed oil undercoating, so your options are DIY or nothing. FF with an annual touch-up is a good option for a lot of people.
Oil spray, FF, etc. do make a mess and require re-application every year or so. But they are relatively cheap to apply (very cheap if for DIY) and can be easily touched up in problematic areas with just a spray can. But if done properly and re-applied periodically, they work as advertised.
For people having the means and equipment to try out the more expensive products, more power to them, but for the average user, oil spray works the same. And if my mechanic complained about getting dirty, that would be the last time I used his services. Myself, I don't mind getting dirty, and it's only few jobs where I have to touch the treated components. Maintenance wise, brakes, oil etc., I don't get dirty from the coating at all.
For people having the means and equipment to try out the more expensive products, more power to them, but for the average user, oil spray works the same. And if my mechanic complained about getting dirty, that would be the last time I used his services. Myself, I don't mind getting dirty, and it's only few jobs where I have to touch the treated components. Maintenance wise, brakes, oil etc., I don't get dirty from the coating at all.
Originally Posted By: supton
I found spray can FF to be useless on frame stuff. Just too thin, washes away too fast--unless if you frequently reapply. The thicker stuff will almost make it through the winter. It too can use some touching up in the winter months IMO.
The thicker stuff is called FluidFilm NAS. Maybe there is better stuff out there, but it's good enough for me. Even the spray can FF has kept my snowblower and mower looking new for about a decade.
I found spray can FF to be useless on frame stuff. Just too thin, washes away too fast--unless if you frequently reapply. The thicker stuff will almost make it through the winter. It too can use some touching up in the winter months IMO.
The thicker stuff is called FluidFilm NAS. Maybe there is better stuff out there, but it's good enough for me. Even the spray can FF has kept my snowblower and mower looking new for about a decade.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I started using the VpCI-368 last year and the product is excellent. It's not cheap, but to me my time is money and paying up for a better product is well worth it. In all honesty there is no comparison between a spray bomb application and using a compressor with the wands for applying any of these products.
If you really want a good job a compressor and gun with wands is the hands down winner. Last week on my Jeep I combined that with a coat from my airless sprayer on the undercarriage and was very pleased with the results.
Source???
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Where did you buy the VpCl-368?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I started using the VpCI-368 last year and the product is excellent. It's not cheap, but to me my time is money and paying up for a better product is well worth it. In all honesty there is no comparison between a spray bomb application and using a compressor with the wands for applying any of these products.
If you really want a good job a compressor and gun with wands is the hands down winner. Last week on my Jeep I combined that with a coat from my airless sprayer on the undercarriage and was very pleased with the results.
Source???
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Where did you buy the VpCl-368?
I use both the standard spray fluid film and the NAS stuff. I have done quite a bit of research and reading over the years. I tried POR 15 years ago, and found the peeling problem too difficult to deal with. One peeling corner, and rust builds up underneath. The thick NAS stuff works better than the spray, but you have to brush it on. It has worked well enough for me. I can still see water beading on the frame when I power wash the salt off. I agree with those before me. It doesn't hold up permanently against spray, but with realistic expectations of reapplication, this stuff works great for the price. And really, my favorite part is the non toxic aspect. No dripping oil stains on my driveway, no toxic mess when I am working underneath. I saw a guy with a 01 gmc Sierra, and he had been using fluid film since new. This is in detroit, with detroit slush btw. And his truck only had isolated surface rust on the frame. I became a believer. With regular application, this stuff will work just fine.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I started using the VpCI-368 last year and the product is excellent. It's not cheap, but to me my time is money and paying up for a better product is well worth it. In all honesty there is no comparison between a spray bomb application and using a compressor with the wands for applying any of these products.
If you really want a good job a compressor and gun with wands is the hands down winner. Last week on my Jeep I combined that with a coat from my airless sprayer on the undercarriage and was very pleased with the results.
Source???
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Where did you buy the VpCl-368?
Sorry......Online from The Rust Store. They are also very helpful with product questions and comparisons.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I started using the VpCI-368 last year and the product is excellent. It's not cheap, but to me my time is money and paying up for a better product is well worth it. In all honesty there is no comparison between a spray bomb application and using a compressor with the wands for applying any of these products.
If you really want a good job a compressor and gun with wands is the hands down winner. Last week on my Jeep I combined that with a coat from my airless sprayer on the undercarriage and was very pleased with the results.
Source???
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Where did you buy the VpCl-368?
Sorry......Online from The Rust Store. They are also very helpful with product questions and comparisons.
Originally Posted By: Kurtatron
I use both the standard spray fluid film and the NAS stuff. I have done quite a bit of research and reading over the years. I tried POR 15 years ago, and found the peeling problem too difficult to deal with. One peeling corner, and rust builds up underneath. The thick NAS stuff works better than the spray, but you have to brush it on. It has worked well enough for me. I can still see water beading on the frame when I power wash the salt off. I agree with those before me. It doesn't hold up permanently against spray, but with realistic expectations of reapplication, this stuff works great for the price. And really, my favorite part is the non toxic aspect. No dripping oil stains on my driveway, no toxic mess when I am working underneath. I saw a guy with a 01 gmc Sierra, and he had been using fluid film since new. This is in detroit, with detroit slush btw. And his truck only had isolated surface rust on the frame. I became a believer. With regular application, this stuff will work just fine.
The NAS is also a bit safer IMO than the spray can. I think I gassed myself when I used the spray can on my truck, ever since I've had a low tolerance for the spray can version.
I use both the standard spray fluid film and the NAS stuff. I have done quite a bit of research and reading over the years. I tried POR 15 years ago, and found the peeling problem too difficult to deal with. One peeling corner, and rust builds up underneath. The thick NAS stuff works better than the spray, but you have to brush it on. It has worked well enough for me. I can still see water beading on the frame when I power wash the salt off. I agree with those before me. It doesn't hold up permanently against spray, but with realistic expectations of reapplication, this stuff works great for the price. And really, my favorite part is the non toxic aspect. No dripping oil stains on my driveway, no toxic mess when I am working underneath. I saw a guy with a 01 gmc Sierra, and he had been using fluid film since new. This is in detroit, with detroit slush btw. And his truck only had isolated surface rust on the frame. I became a believer. With regular application, this stuff will work just fine.
The NAS is also a bit safer IMO than the spray can. I think I gassed myself when I used the spray can on my truck, ever since I've had a low tolerance for the spray can version.
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