Should I sell now because of this?

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
You are just looking for excuses for a $300 repair to replace your vehicle. good luck.
I agree

You don't want to cough up the money to fix it, but you'll buy an SUV that was $60,000-$70,000+ new?

It's like when you see a fairly new Mercedes or BMW driving down the street with cheap-o tires on it, because they were to cheap to buy decent ones.

 

[LeakySeals]

Thank you all! I feel better about that bolt. Going to try the exhaust manifold clamp as a preventative measure for now. Deal with the actual repair in the future if necessary.

 

[DoubleWasp]

When I run into this problem, I replace the manifold with new, and use ARP studs in place of the originals. Haven't had to go back in on one yet.

Ford engines are most notorious for this.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
You are just looking for excuses for a $300 repair to replace your vehicle. good luck.
I agree

You don't want to cough up the money to fix it, but you'll buy an SUV that was $60,000-$70,000+ new?

It's like when you see a fairly new Mercedes or BMW driving down the street with cheap-o tires on it, because they were to cheap to buy decent ones.

No, its not like that for me. If the vehicle doesn't cause me a major problem I will keep it continue to spend money on it. Like the old rusty Camry in my Sig. If there's going to be a major expense like a transmission or engine its time to move on. I didn't know the extent of this issue so I asked. Didn't know this is the type of forum where you get criticised for asking a question.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
When I run into this problem, I replace the manifold with new, and use ARP studs in place of the originals. Haven't had to go back in on one yet.

Ford engines are most notorious for this.

I'm willing to do this after I finish up some other repairs. Can I leave that bracket as a patch for now?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
When I run into this problem, I replace the manifold with new, and use ARP studs in place of the originals. Haven't had to go back in on one yet.

Ford engines are most notorious for this.


Yup, passenger side on our Expedition, multiple studs broke off. Wasn't too expensive to have repaired either.

 

[FastLane]

I'm guessing not tons of room to work on it but all you have to do is take that manifold off. There is probably enough bolt sticking out to grab on to it with vice grips. It won't cost too much to fix.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
440Magnum - if I lived in Texas I would agree with you and not give it a second thought. But here in Massachusetts it's the winter road salt and rust that limits the lifespan of a vehicle to approx. 15 years.


True, and that's become a potential issue for me since one of the schools my daughter got accepted to for grad school is Yale. I'll probably just offer to buy her a beater sedan and keep her XJ safe from the rust monster until she's done if that's where she decides to go.

But judging by the visible part of that manifold, there's not much salt damage in that area. Don't know if the rest of the truck is swiss cheese or not, but even still... a bolt is no reason to pull the plug. Worst case, drive it with that little "ticking" exhaust leak (very small volume of actual gas escapes at a manifold gasket leak, they're just noisy) until something SERIOUS breaks!

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Thank you all! I feel better about that bolt. Going to try the exhaust manifold clamp as a preventative measure for now. Deal with the actual repair in the future if necessary.


Good idea!

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Worst case, drive it with that little "ticking" exhaust leak (very small volume of actual gas escapes at a manifold gasket leak, they're just noisy) until something SERIOUS breaks!


It MUST BE a very small volume, considering just how tight the lean code/DTC setting parameters are in the Gen 3/4's ECM!

 

[ls1mike]

Just throw the clamp on there. it is a permanent fix if you don't car about it being there. It puts more of an even pressure on that spot anyway. They work great.

 

[Nate1979]

I assume if you were to dump it you would disclose the problem anyways? Why not fix the problem because the cost to fix it is already included in any value you would get out of it. (Assuming you are not some scum bag that would hide the problem)

 

[LeakySeals]

Here are some additional pics.

Driver side front

Passenger side front. Visible is the broken bolt and next to the number 317 the holes the bracket is supposed to screw into.

Comparing the two pictures what do you guys see? Do they both look the same or does one look like it's pulling away from the head?

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Just throw the clamp on there. it is a permanent fix if you don't car about it being there. It puts more of an even pressure on that spot anyway. They work great.

It's on order I should have it before the weekend.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
440Magnum - if I lived in Texas I would agree with you and not give it a second thought. But here in Massachusetts it's the winter road salt and rust that limits the lifespan of a vehicle to approx. 15 years.

True, and that's become a potential issue for me since one of the schools my daughter got accepted to for grad school is Yale. I'll probably just offer to buy her a beater sedan and keep her XJ safe from the rust monster until she's done if that's where she decides to go.

But judging by the visible part of that manifold, there's not much salt damage in that area. Don't know if the rest of the truck is swiss cheese or not, but even still... a bolt is no reason to pull the plug. Worst case, drive it with that little "ticking" exhaust leak (very small volume of actual gas escapes at a manifold gasket leak, they're just noisy) until something SERIOUS breaks!

Actually cars in So Cal is in better shape than Texas, the main reason is we don't even have rain here. The wettest years had about 10-15 raining days, on average about 5-8 days. The E430 and S2000 bottom looked like new after 12 and 16 years.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Here are some additional pics.


Comparing the two pictures what do you guys see? Do they both look the same or does one look like it's pulling away from the head?



Its almost certainly pulled away just a little- manifolds just do that when they lose clamping force on one side and then see heat cycles (and the fact you hear 'ticking' proves it.) In all probability, the clamp will close the gap right back up. Don't get carried away tightening it down- follow the directions, run it a week or so, then re-tighten to gradually close the gap, just like it gradually opened.

 

[Lubener]

The repair will likely be less than the sales tax you will pay on your new vehicle. I didn't notice if you said it was noisy, but if it weren't leaking, I would run it till it started popping, then fix it asap. You won't burn oil because of this. Expansion/ contraction is to blame.