PL30001 Cut open

[Dyusik]

This filter is my official "nail" in the Purolator "coffin".
This came off my Jeep, ran a gallon of RT6 and everything that had a splash left in containers. In went an equivalent Denso, and topped off with some PYB 10w30. Left the oil in as it was only in there for 2k miles, and the can was clean (couple specks in there). Oil/filter is/was in service for 18 months or so. Oil will stay there until I get some oil for it on sale, maybe...

The filter came out internally flawless, ADBV/gasket had no rips, pliable (silicone). Pleats were perfect, which was a sigh of relief, but disappointing as I wasted an intact filter.

 

[53' Stude]

Is my decoding correct: May 8, 2014? Didn't think they still put the string around the media into 2014

 

[tig1]

Although I don't use them, it's good to see a Puro filter pass the cut open test. What I don't understand is buying new filters then cutting them apart.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: car51
Is my decoding correct: May 8, 2014? Didn't think they still put the string around the media into 2014
They haven't used string in years.

 

[901Memphis]

Yes it's a 2014 filter based on the second F after the month code.

I think they continued using the string longer in this application because there's more media than most filters because of its shear size.

 

[KingCake]

I don't get how this is a nail in the coffin?

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: KingCake
I don't get how this is a nail in the coffin?


I think he means it was the last one in his stash and he's not going to be buying anymore with his money

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Although I don't use them, it's good to see a Puro filter pass the cut open test. What I don't understand is buying new filters then cutting them apart.


I can tell you why I started cutting open new filters. I heard so much noise about Purolators tearing that I thought I would start checking the Motorcraft FL820S that I use. The very first one I cut had tears on a wide spaced pleat over by the splice top and bottom. The same problem reported on PureOnes and Classics. Two of the four Motorcrafts In my stash had what I thought might be rust on the outlet side of the filter on the dome end cap. So I cut the worst one and yes in addition to the rust, there were wide pleats on either side of the splice. Doing this is a fast safe way to evaluate a filter before making a decision on whether you want to use one on your engine.

 

[SilverC6]

It's a shame to throw away a good filter.

Heck, I will even use a FRAM Extra Guard for a full OCI if I buy it cheap or get it in an oil deal.

I don't even worry about it being the cheapest constructed oil filter on the market.

 

[WellOiled]

Originally Posted By: SilverC6
It's a shame to throw away a good filter.

Heck, I will even use a FRAM Extra Guard for a full OCI if I buy it cheap or get it in an oil deal.

I don't even worry about it being the cheapest constructed oil filter on the market.



On first blush, it does seem like a waste of time and energy to cut open a new filter. However, you can see things you might otherwise miss on a dirty filter. Knowing where the failures do occur and the condition of a new filter will almost tell you whether the filter manufacturer has fixed the problem. Cutting a used filter is of course the acid test.

I just might check out the Fram Extra Guard as they are targeting the 3000-6000 mile OCI.

I used to use them all the time and for some reason I quit doing it. Why I do not remember. CRS disease I guess.