how to remove a drain plug
- Thread starter supton
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Is the fluid in the tube opaque? That wouldn't good, but a bit of colour in the fluid would be in the normal range I think.
In your shoes, I would probably just run the truck for a bit to stir everything up and extract whatever you can get out the fill hole, refill, and then forget about it for a few years...
The last picture is better to see what the fluid looks like, not real good, so I'd do another extract and fill in spring to see what's going on.
In your shoes, I would probably just run the truck for a bit to stir everything up and extract whatever you can get out the fill hole, refill, and then forget about it for a few years...
The last picture is better to see what the fluid looks like, not real good, so I'd do another extract and fill in spring to see what's going on.
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It's quite gray. Makes me think it doesn't have a long life ahead of it, then again maybe it's garbage that wasn't cleaned out from when it was rebuilt.
At this point, I think I'll do what you suggested; drain (best I can), monitor. Maybe it'll last, maybe it won't. Odds are though it'll never come apart.
At this point, I think I'll do what you suggested; drain (best I can), monitor. Maybe it'll last, maybe it won't. Odds are though it'll never come apart.
At this point I would make an appointment at an independent shop and let them get the plug out. They have all the necessary tools to get the plug out without much of a hassle. Should be a cheap job. I know it's frustrating and I don't like to give up on a challenge (I am a former military mechanic to boot), but sometimes you just don't have the tools to do the job.
Pulled out the Mityvac, pulled out 60oz, put in 61oz. Manual says 2.2qt, so I got most of it.
Maybe drain and fill in the spring/summer timeframe. Might take a couple to clear up. Or maybe it'll never go fully clear. As long as it doesn't make noise or break, I don't care, but at least that's done. For now.
Maybe drain and fill in the spring/summer timeframe. Might take a couple to clear up. Or maybe it'll never go fully clear. As long as it doesn't make noise or break, I don't care, but at least that's done. For now.
Nick1994
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Glad to hear you were able to suck out the fluid. I too would do it again in the spring to check the color of the fluid and then go on normal change intervals from there. I'd leave the drain plug alone since your mityvac was able to do the job.
Originally Posted By: supton
The saga continues. Poorly.
Am starting to think it's cross-threaded, and that it's a bad idea to bother removing.
No surprise there, no surprise at ALL! More hackery at the $tealership
I'm glad you were able to at least do a partial drain and fill.
I really sympathize with you, these bastids are so maddening!
Paying your hard earned money so these so called "professionals" can destroy your expensive property!
The saga continues. Poorly.
Am starting to think it's cross-threaded, and that it's a bad idea to bother removing.
No surprise there, no surprise at ALL! More hackery at the $tealership
I'm glad you were able to at least do a partial drain and fill.
I really sympathize with you, these bastids are so maddening!
Paying your hard earned money so these so called "professionals" can destroy your expensive property!
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Having worked on aluminum engines for over 40yrs I feel your pain. I wish I was near you to give a hand with removal, it can be a brutal process, but must be done.
I wish you luck.
Smoky
I wish you luck.
Smoky
Looks like it on there pretty darn good. If it's cross threaded then removing this plug is only half the battle.
Personally, since you can siphon off some of the fluid with a vacuum pump, I would leave the plug alone for now.
Personally, since you can siphon off some of the fluid with a vacuum pump, I would leave the plug alone for now.
Might try some heat, just in case they used loctite red on it.
Yeah, I'll just leave alone. Siphon and refill come spring I think. I'll first find a better way--Mityvac only holds 4oz, lying on my back and dumping every 4oz got real old real quick!
Something dawned on me this morning: could the gray be moly from assembly lube? The copy of the TSB that I have (which may or may not be current, I downloaded it a couple of years ago--so, right at that timeframe) doesn't indicate anything other than "Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W85 GL-5 or equivalent" in the case. It also doesn't mention using assembly lube setting backlash, bearings, etc.
Something dawned on me this morning: could the gray be moly from assembly lube? The copy of the TSB that I have (which may or may not be current, I downloaded it a couple of years ago--so, right at that timeframe) doesn't indicate anything other than "Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W85 GL-5 or equivalent" in the case. It also doesn't mention using assembly lube setting backlash, bearings, etc.
Are you using a 3# hammer or bigger? The tap, tap of a small 8oz hammer won't cut it.
Smoky
Smoky
I feel like I want to reach through my computer screen and start drilling a hole through that plug. It's already got a pilot hole centered. After I tapped in my Proto extractor, that plug would be coming out.
I think you guys are forgetting it wasn't stripped when I had a 2' breaker bar on it. My impact was not operating at a full psi so I think its hammering was too low to break it loose, but enough to damage the splines. Then it ripped out the splines when I fixed that issue.
But the splines were perfect when I started, and used a 2' breaker. I also tried hitting a standard ratchet with a hammer (bad I know), but that shock would not break it loose either.
*
I should state for the record: Same impact gun was able to remove the axle nuts on my VW when I needed to redo the CV's. It took a minute before those broke loose, but it *DID* remove those notoriously hard to remove axle nuts, with their attendant heavy corrosion. Corrosion that this drain plug did not have. Same psi, only instead of 100' I had only 50' of 3/8" line.
But the splines were perfect when I started, and used a 2' breaker. I also tried hitting a standard ratchet with a hammer (bad I know), but that shock would not break it loose either.
*
I should state for the record: Same impact gun was able to remove the axle nuts on my VW when I needed to redo the CV's. It took a minute before those broke loose, but it *DID* remove those notoriously hard to remove axle nuts, with their attendant heavy corrosion. Corrosion that this drain plug did not have. Same psi, only instead of 100' I had only 50' of 3/8" line.
Writing splines when you refer to the internal hex hurts us sensitive types.
As for removing the plug I would heat the plug with a propane torch as suggested. The cover will also get hot and expand. Then hit the plug with an ice cube to shrink it. If that didn't work I'd smack it with a hammer. All of this has been suggested. Only some of which has been tried.
As for removing the plug I would heat the plug with a propane torch as suggested. The cover will also get hot and expand. Then hit the plug with an ice cube to shrink it. If that didn't work I'd smack it with a hammer. All of this has been suggested. Only some of which has been tried.
Originally Posted By: Joshua_Skinner
Then hit the plug with an ice cube to shrink it. If that didn't work I'd smack it with a hammer. All of this has been suggested. Only some of which has been tried.
Or for a couple of bucks, a piece of dry ice, -60 to -70f.
Then hit the plug with an ice cube to shrink it. If that didn't work I'd smack it with a hammer. All of this has been suggested. Only some of which has been tried.
Or for a couple of bucks, a piece of dry ice, -60 to -70f.
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Well, what is the term for the lines on the internal hex? The "reverse flats" if you will. Some of us non-mechanic types don't know the terms.
I talked to a local shop to see if I could get in that day and have him take it out for me. He couldn't get me in, but gave some advice. Among them was to not use heat, as that can cause damage too, like it could explode (his words). I'd do it with the fill removed, but he's a wise old codger and I decided that, since I don't have a blowtorch anyhow that I wasn't going to heat it.
Heat is the only thing I have not done. I tried everything else, failed, found a different way to drain, and gave up on the bolt.
I talked to a local shop to see if I could get in that day and have him take it out for me. He couldn't get me in, but gave some advice. Among them was to not use heat, as that can cause damage too, like it could explode (his words). I'd do it with the fill removed, but he's a wise old codger and I decided that, since I don't have a blowtorch anyhow that I wasn't going to heat it.
Heat is the only thing I have not done. I tried everything else, failed, found a different way to drain, and gave up on the bolt.
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